New Member & Owner .. Need First Test Help TayorK-2006

Hey everyone,

I Just put in a 14x28 6' Deep IG. We are using a Hayward variable pump, DE filter, Delta UV, Aqua Comfort heater.

This morning I opened up my new Taylor k-2006 test kit and began to follow the instructions. Below are my results. We had the water filled up on Monday and have been running it through the system but have yet to add any chemicals.

FC - When I ran this test nothing changed. I added the R-0870 but the water remained clear... I thought I was doing it wrong so I added as much as 8 scoops with no color change.

PH Test - the color was slightly below 7.0.
The base demand test turned with So I believe I need to add Soda Ash?

CH - this turned after 2 drops, so 20ppm?

CYA - Black dot did not disappear after filling tube to the top.

I am very confused, any advice is greatly appreciated.


Bronze Supporter
Mar 19, 2016
Port Orange, FL
Is your pool builder doing the start up or are you on your own? With our new pool last year our builder added all the start up chemicals and then all we had to do was get the chlorine level up a bit and we were good to go.

Paul & Crystal

Silver Supporter
May 25, 2014
Oklahoma City, OK

The FC and the CYA tests won't give you a reading because you haven't added any chlorine or CYA. Is your builder going to do a start up? If not, then start reading pool school then check back here to get help with adding your chems.


Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
I do not believe they will be adding any start up chemicals, I will confirm this shortly.
TJ, good morning and welcome to TFP! :wave: Definitely confirm what your builder plans on doing. Before doing that, you might want to review the TFP Pool School - Start-up New Plaster page just to have an understanding of the options and what may be discussed. It's important the builder get out there fast because unprotected water will try to grow algae quickly. Also, some builders suddenly fall "off the radar" once the pool is done and they get paid. But you want to confirm plaster break-in to protect any pool warranty.

Besides what you see on that link I gave you, you should expect the following:
- A sequqestrant or metal stain preventing product "may" be added to protect new plaster from potential metals stains if the local water has iron in it.
- A stabilizer or conditioner (for CYA) will be added to serve as sunscreen for the bleach (FC) and serve as buffer to protect the pool and swimmers from chlorine
- Bleach is required to increase FC. That's your sanitation. The UV won't be of much value to you, and if you have an in-line chlorinator for tabs it's use will be short-lived. So have a couple gallons of regular/plain bleach on-hand as need to slowly increase FC.
- PH is a big concern for new pools - especially new plaster and for heater care. It's not noted above, but I'm assuming your pool is plaster?
- Please update your signature for us. You can click EDIT YOUR SIGNATURE. It will help us later.
- When in doubt about water testing, refer to the TFP Pool School - Extended Test Kit Directions page. If you still have a question about ANY test, let us know and we'll walk you through it.

Nice to have you with us!
After confirming with the pool company, They did add start up chemicals, however I seem to not believe this is actually true.

I forgot to mention we have an Inline Chlorinator as well. This has been set to "5". When I just spoke to the pool company they mentioned due to the Delta UV, our chlorine reading will be lower than normal. Is this total BS?

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Is this total BS?
Unfortunately, UV isn't as valuable to residential pools as the market makes it out to be. You can read more on these couple threads:
UV system sanitation - Anyone with experience?
UV System.. Is it worth it?
In short, regular chlorine (bleach) will be your best for sanitation. Chlorine tabs are marketed as a convenient tool to add chlorine, but the sellers leave-out the most important part - they increase stabilizer (CYA) over time to a point you have to drain/exchange water to lower the elevated levels. In MA, water temp and (strong) sunlight will influence how much CYA you need to protect FC. Probably not as much as down south, but you'll still need some.

Texas you gave me a link to a new Plaster pool start up, we have a Liner. Is this still the directions we need to follow?
Great! I was wondering. No, you don't need that plaster stuff now. Woo.

No plaster makes things much easier. Thank goodness you have a Taylor K-2006! Let's get right to it:
- Ensure your FC level is between 2-3 for now (regular bleach)
- Check CYA. If they didn't add any stabilizer/conditioner, you need it now. Granular stabilizer placed in a white sock and left soaking near a return jet or dropped in a skimmer works great. Use the Poolmath calculator to determine dosage. In your location, I'd start with a CYA goal of "30". You can always raise more later if needed.
- Test pH and adjust to the mid-7s.

Once the stabilizer dissolves (squeeze that white sock often), never let the FC drop below 3. Always refer to the Chlorine/CYA Chart to balance the two (FC to CYA).

You'll also watch TA and CH, but at this moment with new water, FC, CYA, and pH are most important. Refer to the "Recommended Levels", "Recommended Chemicals", and "Chlorine/CYA Chart" links below in my sig. Very important.