New liner, or whole new pool?

Jump to latest Follow Reply
JenMichelle

JenMichelle

0
Apr 24, 2014
102
St. Louis
So...I have lots of small holes in my liner, due to the last owner of the house not putting in sand or whatever was needed under the liner when it was replaced, and I'm now losing water and have to fill up an inch or so every few days. I have patched and patched since we moved in 4 years ago, but the rocks keep moving up under the liner and with people stepping here and there it works a hole eventually. I notice water on the ground on one side of the pool that looks like its coming from under the pool. Not a lot, but its always wet there, I'm assuming its from the liner leakage.

Here's my questions...

Should I just replace the pool and liner at the same time?
The pool is at least 15-20 years old, the railings are a bit beat up and underneath them there is rust in a few spots. Other than that it seems OK.

Can I replace the liner myself, if I decide to only replace the liner? I hear its a pain in the a$%. And I'm picky. If there are wrinkles and its not done right it will drive me crazy for the years to come.

What kind of material goes underneath a liner? I have mostly clay soil with rocks, and I want to make sure the new pool/liner is good to go with no rocks working their way up and poking holes again.

When is the best time to install a liner?

When is the best time to do a new pool install?

Let me know what you all think!
 
2" of packed sand is the minimum required to have an adequate base for a liner install. Preferably installed on a sunny day. The pool frame is up to you. You did not include photos of the pool for us to give opinions on a whole new pool or if it could withstand just a liner change.
 
So....after much thought, we have decided to replace the entire pool. I have a friend who has a good friend who runs a local pool store and quoted a Sharkline brand above ground pool called the Cinnamon Bay, which he said is a model made specifically for their store.

What are the questions I need to ask about the structure of the pool? It's a 24ft round with a 25mil (or gauge) liner, installation of the pool, including putting a layer of sand and a "felt type" barrier under the liner and he quoted me $3300 total tax and all. I already have a great pump and sand filter so that is not included.

Has anyone heard of Sharkline brand pools?

Any suggestions or tips with choosing a new pool would be greatly appreciated!
 
I have a Sharkline Venture. I paid a little over 2k at poolsupplyworld.com and free shipping for the pool. I already had the pump n filter.
 
Good! I'm glad it's a good deal. You just never know with these pool stores. I went ahead and did the wider skimmer opening and they are going to put vermiculite (whatever the heck that is) plus the rock blocker pad down to keep the rocks from coming up through the clay. Now I just have to get my rear out in this heat and get the landscaping blocks in order before the install.

As always thanks for the support!
 
Do you guys know if pavers are needed for the balisters on the new install? I don't know if there are any under them now, if there are I can't see them. We have river rock around the pool and the balister bottoms are not visible. When the guys come to do the install I need to monitor and make sure they do things right!
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Yes there should always be 4" thick pavers under the upright supports. They should be inset level with the ground once all the leveling of the site is completed.

EDIT: 2" minimum paver
 
Yes at a minimum there should be a 2" thick concrete block under each upright. The 4" thick block is better but most builder will use the 2". You probably can't see them now because they are buried under the coving sand.
 
Ah...the uprights on the ends.


This is based on my OVAL DIY.

I am a DIY project so not sure what an Installer might use....

I have 8 uprights on each end and 4 main buttresses on each side.

I put 2"x12"x12" pavers under the oval ends.

I put TWO 2"x8"x12" blocks under each buttress at each end of the channel bar.

All blocks had a 8" crush rock base under each.

All blocks were leveled to each other within 1/8". I used a Bosch Laser leveler (the most expensive tool I bought for the project $508!!)

You should be able to see the pavers under the end post. As the pool filled with water, some post feet shifted and I have to stop and adjust for the movement and level to other blocks. I have near 100% foot coverage on each post foot paver block now.

Is the pool bonded?
 
Whoops! I guess they are called uprights :D I just want to make sure they do it the right way.

I'm not sure if my current pool is bonded. It was here when we bought the house 4 years ago. What does that mean?

We also have a small retaining wall around the pool to hold the river rock in, and it's in bad shape. Its a low one, only 1-2 blocks high. Should I replace that after they install the new pool, or would you guys do it now?
 
That's what my owners manual parts list defines them as. Uprights. Your manufacturer may be different.

Bonding is required by my local codes and building inspector. It is basically a long copper 8 gauge wire that goes completely around the pool (buried) and is attached to at least 4 of the pool's uprights. It is then connected to anchor points on the pump motor and control box (if you have one) to complete the circuit loop. Your pump motor owners manual should talk about bonding inside the first few pages. There is lots of video and web pages on bonding on the web.

You many need to consider water bonding also which further ties the wire loop to the pool water itself. I bought this little plate that attached to the inside of my skimmer body in the bottom where the water is at.


https://www.amazon.com/CERRO-050-20...e,+Bright,+8+AWG,+0.064"+Diameter,+50'+Length
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GDFV8C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FM2KSS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Again, it depends on your local codes. I'd question your installer about it. If he is fuzzy on it, I'd call my local building inspector office.

Be Safe with electrical stuff. My family safety was on my mind. Some on here may call this over kill but I don't care really.
 
For a new installation bonding should be required (most areas have adopted the current NEC code) if it wasn't there already it will need to be added. Look for a bare copper wire connected to the pump not run in any conduit. That would be evidence that bonding was done already, depending on how old your pool is it may or may not be there.

You absolutely need a water bond fitting if a bonding loop is installed. Ask your builder if the bonding loop was part of the install price. Its only about $120 worth of material and is easier to install parts of it before the pool is up.

Regardless of if your local code requires it (they almost certainly will) bonding the pool will make it much safer electrically.

Rebuild the retaining wall and rock edging after the pool goes up so you can align the wall to the pool again. If you have time remove the retaining wall block and stone and stockpile it close by so that it is out of the way for the pool builder. After the pool is up and filled you will have a place to cool off while you redo the edging.
 
I installed my pump myself when the old one went out, but don't remember any wiring going to it at all. I did hire an electrician to then wire a pump switch for me, and he never mentioned it either. The old pool was installed around 15-18 years ago, so I'm not sure what the code was back then. I will definitely ask the installers about it, although it doesn't say anything about it in the installation paperwork.

Thanks for the info...I definitely like to do things the right way the first time and want my family safe! As always you guys are always so helpful...I will try to update as they take down and install��
 
Well, we are emptying the pool today...installers are coming tomorrow to take down the pool, and show me the layout of the new one, with installation on Tuesday.

I am thinking about adding a SWG since I am having to re plumb the pump and filter to the new pool. I am having the skimmer and return moved over a couple of feet to get it out from underneath our deck, which requires some adjusting.. What do you guys think about that? I have great success with the liquid chlorine method, my pool has never been green. (Knock on wood) The only thing I hate is adding the chlorine every single evening and testing. From what I've read a SWG saves time, but I'm hesitant to switch something that's working.

Any thoughts appreciated :D
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply