New Install Questions - Circupool RJ60+

[Sam337]

I'd love some help from the experts on my new RJ60+ install...

Wiring: Below is a photo of my electrical setup at the pad. My SuperFlo VS pump is wired to a 120v plug (on the left) and stays on 24/7, mostly at low speed. My Stenner chlorine pump (going away) and my pool lights are plugged into an outdoor wifi receptacle and controlled via phone app scheduling. I have read that I can also wire the new RJ60 for a 120v plug-in. My question is whether it is prudent to somehow slave the RJ60 power to the pump so in case the pump somehow loses power then the RJ60 will also turn off? Is that easy to do when I'm not using an external pump controller/timer?


Below is a photo of my plumbing. I'm thinking of modifying the return line to resemble the orange line I've drawn in. This gives me 16"-18" on each leg before and after the 90 degree bend so I can install the flow switch on the first leg and the swg cell on the second. Unfortunately there's not enough room on the existing configuration to install the switch and cell side by side where I currently have the Stenner port. Thoughts on this approach?


Lastly, the manual for the RJ60 indicates an ideal salt level for operation of 3500ppm and to keep salinity between 3000-4000ppm. I've read in other posts that I should target 200-400 above the manufacturer recommendation to allow for some salt loss. That math indicates an initial target of 3700-3900ppm? This sounds a little high so I'm double checking.

Thanks in advance!
Neil

 

[Texas Splash]

If you're pump is on 24/7, likes mine is, then it's easy. Just plug it in and let the module control the output. If power ever goes out, or the pump shuts off for some reason, your failsafe flow switch will turn off the cell.

You're diagram looks reasonable for the install.

I've not heard of increasing the salt level more than what is recommended. Just go with what the manual states and be sure to test your own salt level with a K-1766.

Good luck!

 

[Sam337]

Great info - thanks TS ! I totally forgot and did not consider the flow switch as the failsafe for the pump accidentally shutting off. Perfect! I'm doing my DIY install next week - can't wait!

As an aside, we have the Lueders (limestone) coping but decided to roll the dice with the SWG anyway at the risk of slow erosion. I'll post photos after the install!

 

[markayash]

I have heard ( not directly) that circupool recommends using the upper range around 3900. I had the edge40 and ran mine around 3000 and never had an issue.

 

[sande005]

I got excited adding the initial salt, and am at 3600 for the RJ60+. No issues for the almost 3 months since then. Maybe if you anticipate lots of splash out, or monsoon rains, but even with the 4" of rain the pool got over the last two weeks (I had to pump some to waste), the salt level really hasn't budged. And the dogs drag out far more water in their fur than a pack of kids ever could, necessitating adding an inch or so every once in a while, beyond evaporation. So just go with their recommendation.

 

[markayash]

I got excited adding the initial salt, and am at 3600 for the RJ60+. No issues for the almost 3 months since then. Maybe if you anticipate lots of splash out, or monsoon rains, but even with the 4" of rain the pool got over the last two weeks (I had to pump some to waste), the salt level really hasn't budged. And the dogs drag out far more water in their fur than a pack of kids ever could, necessitating adding an inch or so every once in a while, beyond evaporation. So just go with their recommendation.

SWG makes pool ownership easier. I think the biggest goal with salt is just keep it in range. Once you get it dialed it you can leave it for weeks and not worry about a Green pool.
You have probably read a few post but don’t try and keep your FC at the minimum, salt pools are sticky so no real downside in keeping it higher. I keep mine around 8 to 10 to be safe.

 

[Sam337]

All good info - thanks everyone! My CYA is currently in the 40-50 range and I plan to run it up to 70-80, then keep FC high as mentioned. I'm hoping with my size pool and the oversized RJ60 I can run the SWG at the lower end of it's capacity. Regardless, it will easily pay for itself if the cell lasts more than two years. Between the annual Texas heatwave plus one SLAM after I accidentally let my chlorine tank run out, I'm spending a lot on chlorine!

 

[Sam337]

I'm getting ready to install a new RJ60 so I recently purchased the K-1766 salt test kit. My first test was five days ago and after 8 drops of the R-0718 the solution turned milky dark pink - like a brick red. I tested a 2nd time to be sure and I got the same reading... all good so I recorded 1600 PPM and began to calculate how much salt to add.

I use only liquid chlorine - roughly 1/2 gallon per day of 12.5% this time of year. This morning I tested everything - results are below:

FC 4.6
PH 7.5
TA 70
CH 380
CYA 50
BOR 12
Salt 4200
Temp 88F

I thought "no way" salt could increase that much in 5 days so retested three times and each time it took 20-21 drops of the R-0718 to turn the solution to the correct color.

So my question(s) are:
1) Any clues what would have caused the rapid increase in salt? My only theory is operator error though it's not a difficult test.
2) Do I need to down-adjust my salt or is it close enough to the Circupool recommendation of 3000-4000 PPM?
3) Do I need to down-adjust my CH to get at or below 350?
4) Any other guidance on chemicals? I plan to increase my CYA to 70-80 and my FC to 8+. I've run higher borates in the past but decided not to this year.

Thanks!

 

[Sam337]

I'm getting ready to install a new RJ60 so I recently purchased the K-1766 salt test kit. My first test was five days ago and after 8 drops of the R-0718 the solution turned milky dark pink - like a brick red. I tested a 2nd time to be sure and I got the same reading... all good so I recorded 1600 PPM and began to calculate how much salt to add.

I use only liquid chlorine - roughly 1/2 gallon per day of 12.5% this time of year. This morning I tested everything - results are below:

FC 4.6
PH 7.5
TA 70
CH 380
CYA 50
BOR 12
Salt 4200
Temp 88F

I thought "no way" salt could increase that much in 5 days so retested three times and each time it took 20-21 drops of the R-0718 to turn the solution to the correct color.

So my question(s) are:
1) Any clues what would have caused the rapid increase in salt? My only theory is operator error though it's not a difficult test.
2) Do I need to down-adjust my salt or is it close enough to the Circupool recommendation of 3000-4000 PPM?
3) Do I need to down-adjust my CH to get at or below 350?
4) Any other guidance on chemicals? I plan to increase my CYA to 70-80 and my FC to 8+. I've run higher borates in the past but decided not to this year.

Thanks!

Oops - I intended to start a new thread but it posted to my "new install" thread. Oh well

 

[PoolStored]

So my question(s) are:
1) Any clues what would have caused the rapid increase in salt? My only theory is operator error though it's not a difficult test.
2) Do I need to down-adjust my salt or is it close enough to the Circupool recommendation of 3000-4000 PPM?
3) Do I need to down-adjust my CH to get at or below 350?
4) Any other guidance on chemicals? I plan to increase my CYA to 70-80 and my FC to 8+. I've run higher borates in the past but decided not to this year.

You used a 25ml sample for the second (higher) salt test instead of the 10ml sample that you should have used.

Try again with 10ml sample.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

1) Any clues what would have caused the rapid increase in salt? My only theory is operator error though it's not a difficult test.

Confirm sample size

2) Do I need to down-adjust my salt or is it close enough to the Circupool recommendation of 3000-4000 PPM?

Retest

3) Do I need to down-adjust my CH to get at or below 350?

It's good. Keep CSI between 0.0 and -0.30

 

[Sam337]

Well... I knew my brain was fading but wow! Thanks Rancho and PS'd! You both were spot on. Doh!! A "correct" test confirms about 1700ppm. So I guess I do have to buy some salt

Thanks also for the guidance on the CH - I'll just keep an eye on it.

 

[Sam337]

Successful install!! Here are some photos of the process:

Converted RJ60 to 120V by changing the internal jumpers to this configuration...


Added a plug end to the power cable...


Hung the controller...


Original return line with the old port for liquid chlorine injection...


Began cutting and added a 45 degree coming from the filter return and installed the flow sensor...


Then I glued on a 90 degree elbow and the first union for the cell, and discovered within seconds I forgot to put the threaded collar on first . As I panicked and blurted numerous expletives, I brute-force pulled the connection back apart. Hoping for the best I quickly re-primed it and re-glued it with the collar in place.


I discovered late in the afternoon that my original measurements were off and I wouldn't have enough room to put the cell plus the two 2" to 1.5" reducers between my 90 degree connectors. So after dinner it's back to HD for a couple more 45 degree connectors...


Next morning I did final measurements and made it work with the two 45 degree connectors. Note: I also purchased the Circupool bypass and used it extensively to check measurements during the install instead of repeatedly holding the heavier cell module in mid-air. Here's the final configuration with the bypass in place.


This photo is with everything in operation - no leaks - yay!


My next step is to figure out cord management so the cell and flow sensor wires aren't laying on the ground. Perhaps I'll build a simple conduit run...

Thanks again to those who helped with my questions!

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Nice...things don't always go as planned. That's why there's Home Depot.

It may not be apparent in your photos, but don't forget the bonding wire. I can see a bonding wire attached to the pump.

 

[markayash]

I thought I was the only one that did stuff like that!
Now I am the opposite and have enough parts and valve to build a pool.

When I glued my SWG union on it started falling off ( didn’t let it dry long enough ) when I attached the cell. I propped it up and pushed it on and hoped it would be ok and it was. No leaks so guess glue wasn’t fully dry yet.
I even ordered another union that night to be safe so more spare parts.

 

[Newdude]

My next step is to figure out cord management so the cell and flow sensor wires aren't laying on the ground.

I ziptied mine to the pipes until I figured it out and it ain't broke, so.

Also. SWEET job !!!

 

[Sam337]

but don't forget the bonding wire.

Good call Rancho and thanks for noticing... I took care of it today!

 

[Sam337]

I ziptied mine to the pipes

I like it! I also have an old piece of 2" pvc... now I'm thinking I could ziptie the 2" pipe horizontally to existing plumbing and stuff the excess wires into it just to get them off the ground.

Hey all you seasoned SWG folks... I'm curious about my target FC. I was at 7.4 when I installed the RJ60. Per the installation instructions I set it for 75% and within 24 hours I was at 9.4. I backed it down to 50% and it dropped to 9.2. I've read that some folks like to keep it high though PoolMath suggests a target of 5. Here's the rest of my latest numbers...

FC 9.2
PH 7.7
TA 75ish
CH 380
CYA 70-80
BOR 12
Salt 3500
Temp 90

I'm also leaving town for a week so I don't want to risk it getting too low.

 

[Sam337]

Another interesting observation...

I used to battle PH rise constantly. I did the borates for a couple of summers which helped some but still added acid consistently. Now it seems ever since I added the salt my PH has barely moved. I'm nervous my reagent went bad or something (kidding). I've read that the SWG's can drive up PH some maybe the SWG chlorine will eventually take a toll? Does salt help PH stability like borates? Thanks!

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Hey all you seasoned SWG folks... I'm curious about my target FC. I was at 7.4 when I installed the RJ60. Per the installation instructions I set it for 75% and within 24 hours I was at 9.4. I backed it down to 50% and it dropped to 9.2. I've read that some folks like to keep it high though PoolMath suggests a target of 5. Here's the rest of my latest numbers...

Make it easy on yourself and target 10% of your CYA. Easy to remember and usually covers extra bather load and other extra loads. A higher FC level is gonna do no harm. Just stay under 10 ppm so pH test remains valid.

Pro tip: For FC testing use a 10 mL water sample and one scoop of powder. Multiply drops by 0.5 (divide by 2). Save reagents.

I used to battle PH rise constantly. I did the borates for a couple of summers which helped some but still added acid consistently. Now it seems ever since I added the salt my PH has barely moved. I'm nervous my reagent went bad or something (kidding). I've read that the SWG's can drive up PH some maybe the SWG chlorine will eventually take a toll? Does salt help PH stability like borates? Thanks!

The SWG and Salt have little effect on pH.