- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,059
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
That's correct. 10 ml sample size, one heaping scoop of powder, number of drops until clear divided by 2 (i.e. 14 drops = FC of 7).
new house with pool, what do I need to get started?
- Thread starter femin
- Start date
Yah, that's what I been doing.
Is draining the pool another option? The reason is I don't think I have enough time after work and chlorine supplies to go through this process, If draining, how much should I drain? Or I should get the ammonia tested?
In the mean while, how much bleach should I add each day until Saturday to have the whole day dedicated for this?
Never thought it would be so much work owning a pool, respect for all of you
Is draining the pool another option? The reason is I don't think I have enough time after work and chlorine supplies to go through this process, If draining, how much should I drain? Or I should get the ammonia tested?
In the mean while, how much bleach should I add each day until Saturday to have the whole day dedicated for this?
Never thought it would be so much work owning a pool, respect for all of you
That's on the 10 mil sample, yes.
And wow, I am so sorry that naughty pool water will not hold its chlorine. In your shoes I think it might be worth trying the ammonia test strips to see whats up.
It sounds like you are following the steps to a T so I'm having a hard time seeing anything you might have missed.
What do you know about the history of the pool and what was used on it. Any empty containers around? What does the water look like?
Update: cross posted.
Once you get this put to bed, it will be waaaaay easier!
I'd go ahead and test for ammonia just to be sure that's the culprit, and then dilute/drain according to the reading.
With vinyl, you never want to drain lower than a foot in th shallow end at any single IME in order to eep the liner seated.
And wow, I am so sorry that naughty pool water will not hold its chlorine. In your shoes I think it might be worth trying the ammonia test strips to see whats up.
It sounds like you are following the steps to a T so I'm having a hard time seeing anything you might have missed.
What do you know about the history of the pool and what was used on it. Any empty containers around? What does the water look like?
Update: cross posted.
Once you get this put to bed, it will be waaaaay easier!
I'd go ahead and test for ammonia just to be sure that's the culprit, and then dilute/drain according to the reading.
With vinyl, you never want to drain lower than a foot in th shallow end at any single IME in order to eep the liner seated.
I know the previous owner used someone to open and closed pool, and he went to the pool store to get all of his supplies, pretty sure not BBB method.
Things I noticed:
- when I opened the pool myself last week I unscrew the thing in the skimmer and there was pink liquid came out, I assumed those were the anti freeze
- The pool had that fishy pond smell
Currently, the pool is clear but not the aqua clear I see in other people's pool, it's just clear and I can see the bottom. I brushed/vacuumed it this afternoon and the deep side got cloudy but it became clear after a while, maybe debris settled again. Since I vacuumed I put the multiport in Waste mode, It drained the pool a little, now I see a layer of bubble foams on one side of the pool, I'm going have to refill a little with a hose tomorrow.
That's all I know. Thank you~
Things I noticed:
- when I opened the pool myself last week I unscrew the thing in the skimmer and there was pink liquid came out, I assumed those were the anti freeze
- The pool had that fishy pond smell
Currently, the pool is clear but not the aqua clear I see in other people's pool, it's just clear and I can see the bottom. I brushed/vacuumed it this afternoon and the deep side got cloudy but it became clear after a while, maybe debris settled again. Since I vacuumed I put the multiport in Waste mode, It drained the pool a little, now I see a layer of bubble foams on one side of the pool, I'm going have to refill a little with a hose tomorrow.
That's all I know. Thank you~
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,059
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
I think you deserve a break. I commend you for all the hard work and effort you invested today. 
We'll discuss again tomorrow with clear heads and see what might be the best option for you to follow based on time, work schedules, etc. We'll watch for your updates tomorrow and help every step of the way. Try to have a good evening.
We'll discuss again tomorrow with clear heads and see what might be the best option for you to follow based on time, work schedules, etc. We'll watch for your updates tomorrow and help every step of the way. Try to have a good evening.
Okay, femin, that's actually very good intel and explains something to me. (I didn't think holding 1 FC earlier before starting was entirely consistent with ammonia.)
The pink stuff was RV antifreeze that's used to protect the lines in winter. Not harmful like auto RV is, but FIGHTS chlorine like a demon if there's a fair amount of it. Also smells pond-ish, they say.
Normally on opening, the way to reduce amount that gets in is to turn filter to waste before opening the ones to pump it off.
I think your life will be easier if you do a partial water change.
The RV antifreeze traces might still fight chlorine after, but there will be less of it, and it will wear off and eventually get oxidized by the chlorine. It will also possibly skew your cc readings a bit, so when you slam to clear, your "end of slam" signals like the OCLT (overnight chlorine loss test) and ccs will be arbitrary, but use water clarity as your guide.
I wouldn't bother with the ammonia test if you're going to do a partial change anyway. I think you've had enough shenanigans This pool better be good to you!
The pink stuff was RV antifreeze that's used to protect the lines in winter. Not harmful like auto RV is, but FIGHTS chlorine like a demon if there's a fair amount of it. Also smells pond-ish, they say.
Normally on opening, the way to reduce amount that gets in is to turn filter to waste before opening the ones to pump it off.
I think your life will be easier if you do a partial water change.
The RV antifreeze traces might still fight chlorine after, but there will be less of it, and it will wear off and eventually get oxidized by the chlorine. It will also possibly skew your cc readings a bit, so when you slam to clear, your "end of slam" signals like the OCLT (overnight chlorine loss test) and ccs will be arbitrary, but use water clarity as your guide.
I wouldn't bother with the ammonia test if you're going to do a partial change anyway. I think you've had enough shenanigans
This pool better be good to you!Thank you, That's great to know for the next time when I open, make sure I put it in waste.
lol, I'm trying my best to get the pool in shape because my two kids been asking me everyday when it'll be ready, at least we are making somewhat of a progress
So, I'm going to do a partial water change tomorrow, how much you think would be a good amount to drain? 50%?
lol, I'm trying my best to get the pool in shape because my two kids been asking me everyday when it'll be ready, at least we are making somewhat of a progress
So, I'm going to do a partial water change tomorrow, how much you think would be a good amount to drain? 50%?
That is fine. Just be sure to leave a foot of water in the shallow end to hold the liner in place so it does not shrink or shift.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,059
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Once you get the pool filled back-up after the partial drain, run a new set of numbers for us and things should go much better and be more predictable. Have a good day.
Drained the pool after work, its now refilling through a hose, probably not 50%, i left about 15 inches of water on the shallow side just to be safe. will report back tomorrow with new results.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,059
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
That water looks a heck of a lot better than I was expecting. You should be able to make very good progress this weekend.
Thanks, finished refilling the pool yesterday night, and heres the new results, what do you guys think i should do next? Continue with the 10 min FC test?
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,059
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
I'm assuming those numbers above are from your TF-100 correct? FC is zero. Have you tried adding any bleach yet? Since you have new (fresh) water, you should do the following:
- Add stabilizer for a target CYA of 30 to start with.
- Add bleach for a day 1 target of 3 ppm. After that, increase to about 5 ppm.
- pH is a little low. Ideally you want it around the mid 7s unless you have to "SLAM" for algae, but with fresh water you should not have to do that.
- CH is fine and TA is slightly elevated but can wait for a while.
Let us know if you still have questions.
- Add stabilizer for a target CYA of 30 to start with.
- Add bleach for a day 1 target of 3 ppm. After that, increase to about 5 ppm.
- pH is a little low. Ideally you want it around the mid 7s unless you have to "SLAM" for algae, but with fresh water you should not have to do that.
- CH is fine and TA is slightly elevated but can wait for a while.
Let us know if you still have questions.
I'm assuming those numbers above are from your TF-100 correct? FC is zero. Have you tried adding any bleach yet? Since you have new (fresh) water, you should do the following:
- Add stabilizer for a target CYA of 30 to start with.
- Add bleach for a day 1 target of 3 ppm. After that, increase to about 5 ppm.
- pH is a little low. Ideally you want it around the mid 7s unless you have to "SLAM" for algae, but with fresh water you should not have to do that.
- CH is fine and TA is slightly elevated but can wait for a while.
Let us know if you still have questions.
Yah the results are from TF-100, I added to 3 FC last night, checked the FC again this morning, it dropped to 0.5
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Did you add the stabilizer yesterday? If yes, then you will need to SLAM with FC loss that high overnight. How does the water look? Did you test CCs?
Here is how to SLAM, Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
Here is how to SLAM, Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
Water js very clear, No CYA added yet, i wanted to make sure FC was able to hold before i do that.
I adjust FC from 0.5 to 10 this morning, and went out to do something, came back tested again, FC went back to 0, about few hours, and today is very cloudy, hardly any sun, it drizzled a little bit as well.
Decided to get the ammonia test kit, and it looks like there are ammonia in the water, although it doesnt seem a lot, heres the picture i took, it looks like 0.25 ppm to me
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I adjust FC from 0.5 to 10 this morning, and went out to do something, came back tested again, FC went back to 0, about few hours, and today is very cloudy, hardly any sun, it drizzled a little bit as well.
Decided to get the ammonia test kit, and it looks like there are ammonia in the water, although it doesnt seem a lot, heres the picture i took, it looks like 0.25 ppm to me
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,059
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Okay, so now that you've replaced a good amount of water, let's go back to basics to get you started and ensure any residual ammonia has been removed. You'll need to try this when you have time to stay near the pool for a couple hours or so. Stay nearby, have the bleach ready, and it will work.....
- Increase FC to 10. That's about 1 gal & 3 cups of 8.25% bleach according to the Poolmath calculator. Let it mix with the pump running.
- Test that FC in 10 minutes; what was the result? Was it still between 5-10 FC after 10 minutes?
- If it was, then add some more bleach and keep the FC at "12" from now on (SLAM mode). Now you can add stabilizer. For your pool that would be about 40 ounces (2lbs 8 ounces) of granular stabilizer. Use the sock-soaking method. That should increase your CYA to 30 (no need to test CYA for a couple days)
Now earlier with that 10 minutes test, if your FC did NOT stay between 5-10, then continue to increase it and test again every 10 minutes until it does, then you can do as noted above to begin SLAM mode. Does that make sense? If you have any questions let me know.
It is very important to test FC every 10 minutes in the beginning until your water holds which tells us it "broke through" that ammonia barrier. Once that happens, your FC will hold much better and longer so that you don't have to test as much. I'll try to look for your next update to check on your progress.
- Increase FC to 10. That's about 1 gal & 3 cups of 8.25% bleach according to the Poolmath calculator. Let it mix with the pump running.
- Test that FC in 10 minutes; what was the result? Was it still between 5-10 FC after 10 minutes?
- If it was, then add some more bleach and keep the FC at "12" from now on (SLAM mode). Now you can add stabilizer. For your pool that would be about 40 ounces (2lbs 8 ounces) of granular stabilizer. Use the sock-soaking method. That should increase your CYA to 30 (no need to test CYA for a couple days)
Now earlier with that 10 minutes test, if your FC did NOT stay between 5-10, then continue to increase it and test again every 10 minutes until it does, then you can do as noted above to begin SLAM mode. Does that make sense? If you have any questions let me know.
It is very important to test FC every 10 minutes in the beginning until your water holds which tells us it "broke through" that ammonia barrier. Once that happens, your FC will hold much better and longer so that you don't have to test as much. I'll try to look for your next update to check on your progress.