New Hot Tub Owner. Lot to Learn

[Mdragger88]

It’s likely a little bit of trapped cc’s that get released when you open the cover.
Ps- minimum fc for cya of 60 is 5ppm.
FC/CYA Chart falling below that risks nasties proliferating.

 

[mayberry32]

It is probably simply a whiff of the sanitizer. Does it get more pungent when the water is at 104 degrees?

It is only set at 101°. But very prevalent there when just climbing in. As long as it’s not dangerous, it does fade. Just wanted to check here, in case it was something to worry about.

 

[Ahhsomeguy]

Mayberry32:
Based on what I have read that you have posted I would bet that your hot tub is one of the healthiest and best maintained in your county. It is great to see that you want all the chemistries spot on and that you are concerned about recreational water health. I admire your dogged due diligence. However, now that you understand the basics it is time that you relax and enjoy what you have worked so hard attain. Keep testing periodically and simply watch the water quality. You and the family will enjoy one of the best luxuries on earth for body and soul.

 

[Mdragger88]

Just let it “air out” a minute before getting in. Same goes for after you get out & replenish fc - give those cc’s that are produced from the fc oxidizing the bather waste time to escape before closing the cover. I notice it more in the winter usually because I tend to close the tub up sooner after using it cuz I’m cold 🥶.

 

[mayberry32]

Just let it “air out” a minute before getting in. Same goes for after you get out & replenish fc - give those cc’s that are produced from the fc oxidizing the bather waste time to escape before closing the cover. I notice it more in the winter usually because I tend to close the tub up sooner after using it cuz I’m cold 🥶.

That might be it. I’m in Georgia, but it has been chilly at night and I have been closing it up a little faster this past week. Maybe running 5-10 minutes after adding bleach and then closing up. Thanks for the replies.

 

[mayberry32]

One follow-up to this, because I found it interesting. I called the dealer and spoke to one of the installation managers. He was very familiar with both the hot tub and water chemistry. I had some questions about the freshwater salt system. In the middle of the conversation, he said to me that he was not trying to convince me to use the frog @ ease system at all, and that there are some benefits to going saltwater , but he did not want me wasting money on false premises.

Hey, said that if my particular frog system was keeping chlorine too high, he thinks something is faulty with the cartridge, and he will gladly replace it. He said the issue is typically low chlorine instead of chlorine being too high with those types of systems, and they need to be nearly fully opened up to maintain chlorine levels properly. He pulled up the information off of their website and the frog system does not, in fact, have any CYA in it. He said that is a main benefit to why they use that type of system instead of granulated chlorine. He said with a system like that. I may need to add liquid bleach every so often, but that I could easily leave that in the hot tub while going out of town for a week and a half and not have to worry about my chlorine dropping too low. He said once they are dialed in, and you know the settings for your hot tub, it is almost maintenance free. I had zero intention of trying that system again, but after talking to him, I’m thinking it might not be a horrible idea.

I’m doing OK with the Dichlor and bleach method used here, but, it seems to be all over the place. I have tried a couple of different bottles of bleach and a bottle of chlorinating liquid at 10%, and using the pool math effects of adding tool, none of them seem to be the strength that they stated on the bottle. It seems to be all over the place. I know that bleach weakens over time, and there’s no way to stop that, but I am consistently chasing chlorine on a daily basis. I add to where I think it should be 7ppm and when I check it the following morning it is 2.5 ppm. Other days, I think it should be 6 ppm, and it reads 10 ppm. I know it’s never going to be absolutely on the dot, but I would expect to be a little closer than that with consistent usage.

 

[Mdragger88]

Be sure to check the dates on the liquid chlorine/bleach- it degrades over time & depending upon how it was stored (outside in the hot sun etc.)
Fresh stuff should yield roughly the results of PoolMath based on it’s percentage.

Chlorine Date Code Decoder - Further Reading

www.google.com

The frog’s chlorine itself isn’t necessarily the issue- if you can gauge its rate of dispersment, it’s the “minerals” & other “proprietary” ingredients that make folks chase their tail because they effect multiple parameters in unknown quantities. I agree that usually most people tend to have underchlorinated tubs with that system- also the dichlor/ then bleach method & FC/CYA Chartstill apply. You could make use of your current chlorine cartridge if you wish whilst having some cya in the water the higher fc it was giving you shouldn’t be irritating.
The method’s name should really be changed to the “reach 30ppm cya then use some form unstabilized chlorine method”.

 

[mayberry32]

Be sure to check the dates on the liquid chlorine/bleach- it degrades over time & depending upon how it was stored (outside in the hot sun etc.)
Fresh stuff should yield roughly the results of PoolMath based on it’s percentage.

Chlorine Date Code Decoder - Further Reading

www.google.com

The frog’s chlorine itself isn’t necessarily the issue- if you can gauge its rate of dispersment, it’s the “minerals” & other “proprietary” ingredients that make folks chase their tail because they effect multiple parameters in unknown quantities. I agree that usually most people tend to have underchlorinated tubs with that system- also the dichlor/ then bleach method & FC/CYA Chartstill apply. You could make use of your current chlorine cartridge if you wish whilst having some cya in the water the higher fc it was giving you shouldn’t be irritating.
The method’s name should really be changed to the “reach 30ppm cya then use some form unstabilized chlorine method”.

I think that is the issue. If someone would create an unstabilized chlorine dispenser floating system with a 1-10 dial for dispersement, it would make it super easy to just adjust to dial based on prior chlorine levels and bather load, throw it in and let it sit until the next use .

 

[mayberry32]

And reading through all this, several times, I do not need to shock my hot tub, at all, if I'm using the dichlor/bleach method, correct? I never need to raise the chlorine level or use non chlorine shock...at all?

 

[Mdragger88]

You may need to raise fc to slam level for your cya if cc’s above .5 are present until they get back to .5 or below.
If they become persistent- it’s usually time to purge/drain/refill.

You should also raise the fc level high enough after each use to account for current bather waste fc loss & future standby fc loss to keep your tub above minimum for your cya until your next dose. This may be near or to slam level for your cya. FC/CYA Chart
Never let fc go below minimum for your cya lest nasties will proliferate at an alarming rate 🤢
It is safe to use the tub with fc anywhere between minimum & slam level for your cya.
There is no “shocking” on a schedule just because, if that’s what you mean.
All Chlorine doses are simply relative to what the tub actually needs to maintain sanitary water conditions. Dose as necessary to prevent ever going below minimum- period.

 

[phonedave]

I think that is the issue. If someone would create an unstabilized chlorine dispenser floating system with a 1-10 dial for dispersement, it would make it super easy to just adjust to dial based on prior chlorine levels and bather load, throw it in and let it sit until the next use .

Cal Hypo is unstabilized. There are three main issues with it

1) Cost - it costs more, but for the amounts you use in a hot tub, it is not that big of a difference
2) Calcium - Cal Hypo adds Calcium Hardness, which in a pool over time is an issue, but in a hot tub, where you do water changes, it should be manageable
3) Rate that it dissolves - This is the big issue. It dissolves VERY quickly. Even tablets. Cal Hypo either needs daily dosing with granules (and should be pre-dissolved before adding) or a specialized tablet dispenser that does not let the tables get fully wet (or else they turn into a mushy pile of chlorine goo that leaches very quickly into your hot tub)

A Cal Hypo dispenser for hot tubs would be excellent, but I don't know if one exists

 

[Methuselah]

I’m doing OK with the Dichlor and bleach method used here, but, it seems to be all over the place. I have tried a couple of different bottles of bleach and a bottle of chlorinating liquid at 10%, and using the pool math effects of adding tool, none of them seem to be the strength that they stated on the bottle. It seems to be all over the place. I know that bleach weakens over time, and there’s no way to stop that, but I am consistently chasing chlorine on a daily basis. I add to where I think it should be 7ppm and when I check it the following morning it is 2.5 ppm. Other days, I think it should be 6 ppm, and it reads 10 ppm. I know it’s never going to be absolutely on the dot, but I would expect to be a little closer than that with consistent usage.

Sounds right to me. CYA of 60 is high, so your minimum needs to be higher or stuff grows and eats your FC. Ozone generators also eat up some FC. Look up your minimum for CYA, KEEP it always above that minimum, you will start to see a correlation with levels and "bather load".

You will get there

 

[mayberry32]

Question about how to handle an extended trip out of town. I am leaving next Friday and will be gone for 10 days on a saltwater fishing trip over Thanksgiving week. I’m using the hot tub daily, while at home, and replenishing chlorine daily, depending on bather load and time in the tub.

But, even with no bather load, and the tub being covered, I’m sure chlorine will drop over that time span, while I am gone. What should I run my chlorine up to, in order to make sure it doesn’t get down to dangerous levels before I get home? Definitely do not want to come home to a green hot tub.

I thought about putting the [email protected] system back in while I am gone, just to keep chlorine constantly in the tub, but I don’t want that stuff in my water. Something in it makes me itch every time I added it back to the tub.

 

[Mdragger88]

Raise to slam level for your cya right before your departure.
Do u have anyone who will be checking on your house that could add a premeasured amount of liquid chlorine on day 5 or so?

 

[Mdragger88]

You could also use the frog while you’re gone. I would do both for an extended absence since you already have it. Then remove it upon your return.

 

[mayberry32]

I do have someone that could add chlorine. But I’d have to show them how to run the hot tub for 5-10 minutes. Maybe have them add 1/2 cup of 10% bleach, to raise it by around 7ppm halfway through my trip.

 

[mayberry32]

I really wanted to use the frog for this, but put it in yesterday and then last night I itched like crazy. Had to coat my back with cortisone cream to go to bed. Added aqua clarity this morning and skimmed the froth off the top. Got in for 15-20 minutes before heading to the office and not itching at all. So, the aqua clarity seems to get whatever is in the Frog system that irritates me out of the water.

 

[Ahhsomeguy]

I thought you were using the Aqua Clarity product in your hot tub. If you are, just elevate the sanitizer level to around 6-10 ppm chlorine 4 hours after you add the required Aqua Clarity. Thats all you will need. When you return, please post what you find. I leave my 720 gallon tub for a week at a time on many occasions. I just dose it up with bleach after adding the Aqua Clarity. Always perfect when I return. Of course the hot tub is covered.

 

[Methuselah]

I thought you were using the Aqua Clarity product in your hot tub. If you are, just elevate the sanitizer level to around 6-10 ppm chlorine 4 hours after you add the required Aqua Clarity. Thats all you will need. When you return, please post what you find. I leave my 720 gallon tub for a week at a time on many occasions. I just dose it up with bleach after adding the Aqua Clarity. Always perfect when I return. Of course the hot tub is covered.

With cya at 60 he may need to run it higher?

 

[mayberry32]

CYA is dropping. I have thought about draining and refilling again, just to get CYA exactly where it needs to be. It’s back down to right at 50 as of now. Should be back down to 30 within another three or four weeks, as it’s dropping by around 10 every 10-12 days or so.