New homeowner, new pool, please help me get control

[jfreeman]

- I added DE to the filter.
- I removed the ON toggle from the booster pump timer.
- I changed the pump filter to run from 7a to 11a.
- I'll buy 10% liquid chlorine, muriatic acid, and stabilizer tomorrow.
- I'll mess with the unknown white bag later.

The pool cleaner has no markings, but it looks exactly like the Polaris Vac-Sweep 3900 Sport:

 

[ajw22]

- I added DE to the filter.
- I removed the ON toggle from the booster pump timer.
- I changed the pump filter to run from 7a to 11a.
- I'll buy 10% liquid chlorine, muriatic acid, and stabilizer tomorrow.
- I'll mess with the unknown white bag later.

The pool cleaner has no markings, but it looks exactly like the Polaris Vac-Sweep 3900 Sport:

View attachment 128640

How did your filter pressure or water flow change after you added the DE?

The Polaris Vac-Sweep 3900 Sport is a decent pressure side cleaner. Note that the bag should not be lying on its side like it is. It should be wrapped around the feed hose. I am not sure you have an OEM bag. See at 3:10 in this video...

 

[jfreeman]

The pressure went up about a half PSI. It was too dark for me to judge the return flow.

Note that the bag should not be lying on its side like it is. It should be wrapped around the feed hose.

Good to know! I had already emptied the bag once, and maybe it's just my fault that it wasn't wrapped around the hose. I can't remember if I found it that way.

 

[RTamanda]

The SWCG has 8" cells. I'll tell Pool Math to assume 1.0 lb/day output for now. Thank you!

My filter and booster pumps were configured by the previous owners to run for 8 hours each day. I can see my daily energy use, and each day those pumps use about 30kWh. That's 11,000 kWh per year. That seems to me like a lot. Is it? If I had an efficient system, how much could I reasonably get that down to (ballpark estimate)? This blog estimates a 1hp pump uses 2500 kWh in a year; my system is about 3x that power, but that's still only 7500 kWh. My test kits are on the way. Once they are here, I can start to figure out whether I can run the pumps for less time each day while maintaining a good level of FC.

Sometime near the end of the pumps' schedule Saturday, the breaker tripped. I figured this out on Tuesday and reset the breaker. A plumber and an electrician came Wednesday. The plumber said the filter pump wasn't primed and used the garden hose to put a bunch of water down the suction pipe. He said the motor was probably struggling to pump out all the air and tripped the breaker. The electrician moved wires around in the breaker box, to put the filter pump on a higher-rated breaker. After it was primed, he said it was drawing 13 amps when it should only be drawing 10. He said it was old and that it might need to be replaced. How can I tell?

The pumps ran as scheduled the next day, Thursday. This morning, Friday, I notice the pump isn't running again. The new breaker has tripped. What should I do?

When I check the filter pump, I can see bubbles. Please see this video. Is this too many bubbles, or normal?

When I check the return jets in the pool, only one seems to be putting out any water, judging by turbulence visible on the surface. Could that be a symptom of a dying filter pump? Could it be from a leak in the suction or return lines?

If I replace the filter pump, do I need to replace the whole pump or just the motor? What power of motor should I get for an 18k gal pool? I think I'd like to get a variable-speed motor fo

Welcome!!!! You’re gonna love it here! I’m currently in the middle of replacing my Hayward Super Pump 1.5 hp with a VGreen 1.65 variable speed motor. I was curious how old my old pump was, and did a lot of research about how to tell. “They” say you can call Hayward and give them your serial number and they can tell you. I could tell from the terrible noises coming from my pump and how deteriorated it was on the outside that it was time to put it out of its misery. The pool was built around 2007 and I guarantee you this was the original pump. Since I’m taking it all apart anyway, I’m replacing everything after the pump housing (seal plate, impeller, diffuser, gaskets, etc.). I can only assume it’s all 13 years old. If it were me, I would say just replace the pump. Inyopools.com is my go to for supplies. They have a great website, super helpful videos, and amazing customer service. They are very helpful over the phone as well. At the very minimum, replace ALL of your rings and gaskets and remember to use silicon on them. You may have a leak from an old seal that could be an easy and cheap fix. On Inyo’s website, if you put in your model number of your pump (on the pump housing, NOT the motor) they will give you a complete list of compatible replacement parts. I’m attaching pics of my motor I just removed for your entertainment ? Again, welcome!!!

 

[ajw22]

Your pool cleaner is missing the right rear hubcap. It is part polaris 3900 hub cap 39-008. The hub cap protects the bearing from getting dirt in it and friction increasing.

The Polaris cleaner does not have a lot of power from the water pressure to move it. Friction building up in the bearings is the main reason the cleaner gets sluggish moving and stops climbing the walls. Replacement bearings are sold and are a common repair and rebuild.

For the few dollars that little plastic disc will cost it is worthwhile replacing it to keep the cleaner running well.