New Guy From New Orleans Area!

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I will be going today to get my water tested again and I will be sure to get the specs from her.

I will say that over the 9 years I have owned the house I have only needed to add Acid once, and only needed to add Baking Soda twice. Oddly enough the time she had me add either the Acid or Baking Soda I cant remember which one, the very next testing (2 weeks later) I had to put either then Acid or Baking Soda. The normally lady wasn't there one of the times so im thinking the person that took her place screwed something up. So I really have had a trouble free pool, no pun intended.

I think I am leaning towards going to the BBB method just so I can understand the pool better.

I can honestly say that after buying the Lil Shark, Leaf Canister and hanging a pool net over the side of the pool just before the skimmer has helped keep the pool spotless unless after a thunderstorm that causes plenty leaves to get into the pool. After a few hours the Lil Shark takes care of it thou.

Speaking of that, the back of my property I have woods. From the edge of my pool to the tree line may be about 15-20' so its is prone to getting leaves in it that are quickly eaten by the Lil Shark. Does this affect the BBB method any?

How do I know what to put in the pool after testing it with the BBB Method?

Wayne
 
Another question that may be stupid to ask but im curious. What type of chemicals are included in the Test Kit? I work at a Chemical Plant and have access to many chemicals that the average Joe doesn't. And as I said above a good friend of mine is a big wig at a chemical blending company so what chemicals I cant get he may be able to get me.

Wayne
 
Z7What said:
Another question that may be stupid to ask but im curious. What type of chemicals are included in the Test Kit? I work at a Chemical Plant and have access to many chemicals that the average Joe doesn't. And as I said above a good friend of mine is a big wig at a chemical blending company so what chemicals I cant get he may be able to get me.

Wayne
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You are not going to be able to "recreate" a test kit by bringing chemicals home from the plant.
 
The kits recommended here use industry standard tests that are repeatable, easy to read, and consistent. This is different than many of the other products sold as test kits that require the user to make judgements about the color or degree of change. The Taylor tests are red/green type color changes (not all are the same color) that easy to see a change and no judgement is required, just counting (except the CYA test).

Short answer: the TF-100 and K2006 kits use Taylor manufactured testing chemicals repackaged into user friendly amounts as required by the average pool owner in a season, or two. The TF-100 include more of each test reagent and come in a nice carrying case.

Long answer:
From the TF-100 description
The TF-100 contains 7 tests
Each test is designed to help you understand the condition of your pool water. Combined, these tests give you a perfect "picture" of your water. The results will let you know, even if your pool is perfectly clear, that you may need to make some adjustments to keep it that way.

(If your pool is a "Green Monster" (algae laden) or suffers from some very noticeable water problems, the XL option will provide you even more of the chemistry you need most to clear your pool quickly. It will also provide you the information needed to analyze what's wrong and help you take the corrective steps necessary.)
The tests included in the TF-100 are:
Chlorine Test (OTO) - Very dependable for detecting the presence of chlorine in your pool - normally used daily. The most common cause of pool water problems is lack of chlorine.

pH Test - This important parameter of your pool water should be tested frequently. Too high and you can form calcium deposits (scaling). Too low and you can damage your equipment.

Chlorine Test (FAS/DPD) - This test separates the TF-100 from cheaper "bargain" kits that simply do not have this test. Measuring chlorine VERY precisely, even up to 50ppm+, this test is indispensable to a pool owner, especially when correcting pool water problems.

Combined Chloramines Test - CC's are a good indicator of the need to shock your pool. The TF-100 can measure CC's down to .2ppm. Cheaper kits will not have the CC's test.

Calcium Hardness Test - Measure the CH of your pool water and your fill water as well. This allows you to control and manage this important parameter. Excessive calcium contributes to scaling and too little can damage your plaster.

Total Alkalinity Test - TA buffers your pH. While there is a lot of latitude with this parameter, close monitoring (testing) several times during the summer is essential.

Cyanuric Acid Test - CYA protects your chlorine from sunlight. It must be kept at the proper level to be effective. Again, the cheaper kits do not perform this essential test
All packed carefully in a customizable, large plastic case, these kits come complete with all the chemistry and hardware you need. Thorough laminated instructions will guide you step by step through each test and provide you with guidelines to tell you what levels are acceptable.
 
Z7What said:
Another question that may be stupid to ask but im curious. What type of chemicals are included in the Test Kit? I work at a Chemical Plant and have access to many chemicals that the average Joe doesn't. And as I said above a good friend of mine is a big wig at a chemical blending company so what chemicals I cant get he may be able to get me.

Wayne
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Hey Wayne,

Do you work in the plant lab, or know the water person in there? They can test some things for you there that our suggested kits test for. CH, TA (M alkalinity), pH. They cannot test for high FC and you don't want to wait until you reach the plant for that anyway. And not for pH if it's more than a couple of hours after you take a pool sample.

They also cannot test for Cya. The tests they can run, are basic wet testing generics any water lab has on hand. Some are identical, but most are in different strengths. Ours are dropwise, and theirs can be, but are most likely Burette volumes/strengths. So, they won't be interchangeable. The results would be fine, but different in use and calculations.

All that said, it's absolutely best you get a full kit to use at home. No question. If you set up a test station at home, one Burette could cost as much as on TF100 kit should you have to replace it. I have a access to plant labs everyday and I still use my kit at home.
 
Patrick_B said:
Hey Wayne,

Do you work in the plant lab, or know the water person in there? They can test some things for you there that our suggested kits test for. CH, TA (M alkalinity), pH. They cannot test for high FC and you don't want to wait until you reach the plant for that anyway. And not for pH if it's more than a couple of hours after you take a pool sample.

They also cannot test for Cya. The tests they can run, are basic wet testing generics any water lab has on hand. Some are identical, but most are in different strengths. Ours are dropwise, and theirs can be, but are most likely Burette volumes/strengths. So, they won't be interchangeable. The results would be fine, but different in use and calculations.

All that said, it's absolutely best you get a full kit to use at home. No question. If you set up a test station at home, one Burette could cost as much as on TF100 kit should you have to replace it. I have a access to plant labs everyday and I still use my kit at home.
Click to expand...

I'm a operator at the plant so testing at working won't be a option although that would be great!

So today I got my sampled and asked for the results. She not only gave me the results, she gave me the rests since 2008!

Today's Reaults
CLDY = NO (Actually, I'm not sure what CLDY is but it has NEVER been tested since 2008 which is where the records start.
Free CL = NR (She said NR means she didn't test it)
Total CL =NR (She said NR means she didn't test it)
pH = 7.4
Cya Acid = NR (She said NR means she didn't test it)
Cooper = 0.50
Iron = NR (She said NR means she didn't test it)
Alk = 70.0
Hard = 260
TDS = NR (She said NR means she didn't test it)
Phos = NR (She said NR means she didn't test it)
Borate = NR (She said NR means she didn't test it)
Nitrate = NR (She said NR means she didn't test it)
Salt = NR (She said NR means she didn't test it)
Biguanide = NR (She said NR means she didn't test it)
Biguanide Shock = NR (She said NR means she didn't test it)

So basically it looks like she does t even run 80% if the samples needed.

Wayne
 
No offense Wayne, but I would not swim in your pool. If you have no idea what your chlorine levels are I would not let let your family swim in it. I think CLDY means cloudy which is something they would ask you as in "is your water cloudy?". You should ask the person testing the water why they don't test Free CL or Total CL. Also ask them what is Free CL and Total CL and let us know the response. The chlorine levels are probably the single most important parameter to know to let someone safely swim in your pool and those levels are dependent upon other things not tested like CYA levels.
 
Wow. I hope this opens your eyes to the importance of pool water safety and you take control of your pool.
 
Z7What said:
I'm a operator at the plant so testing at working won't be a option although that would be great!

So today I got my sampled and asked for the results. She not only gave me the results, she gave me the rests since 2008!

Today's Reaults
CLDY = NO (Actually, I'm not sure what CLDY is but it has NEVER been tested since 2008 which is where the records start.
Free CL = NR (She said NR means she didn't test it)
Total CL =NR (She said NR means she didn't test it)
pH = 7.4
Cya Acid = NR (She said NR means she didn't test it)
Cooper = 0.50
Iron = NR (She said NR means she didn't test it)
Alk = 70.0
Hard = 260
TDS = NR (She said NR means she didn't test it)
Phos = NR (She said NR means she didn't test it)
Borate = NR (She said NR means she didn't test it)
Nitrate = NR (She said NR means she didn't test it)
Salt = NR (She said NR means she didn't test it)
Biguanide = NR (She said NR means she didn't test it)
Biguanide Shock = NR (She said NR means she didn't test it)

So basically it looks like she does t even run 80% if the samples needed.

Wayne
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Ok, I thought by the way you were talking you meant you could, or had access to reagent.

Seeing these numbers and information, you really need a kit to run these at home on a good fresh sample. Get A Taylor 2006 anywhere you can find one, but you usually have to get one of these online. Or get a TF100. It is a way better deal, with the same reagent. I want to help you, but mixing those result with our advice, won't go well. I don't know why, but she didn't even test for the most important parameter FC.
 

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ComputerGuyInNOLA said:
No offense Wayne, but I would not swim in your pool. If you have no idea what your chlorine levels are I would not let let your family swim in it. I think CLDY means cloudy which is something they would ask you as in "is your water cloudy?". You should ask the person testing the water why they don't test Free CL or Total CL. Also ask them what is Free CL and Total CL and let us know the response. The chlorine levels are probably the single most important parameter to know to let someone safely swim in your pool and those levels are dependent upon other things not tested like CYA levels.
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Yes this really has me shocked. She said that the water around here doesn't have X things in it (cant remember which one she said) in it that's why she never test for it. But after reading on this site I cant believe some things weren't tested. I jumped in the pool yesterday after cutting the grass :hammer:

Casey said:
Wow. I hope this opens your eyes to the importance of pool water safety and you take control of your pool.
Click to expand...
It does, about to walk out the door to go pick up my 100Lb bucket of shock for $60 ;) and while im out im going to go get a test kit.

Patrick_B said:
Ok, I thought by the way you were talking you meant you could, or had access to reagent.

Seeing these numbers and information, you really need a kit to run these at home on a good fresh sample. Get A Taylor 2006 anywhere you can find one, but you usually have to get one of these online. Or get a TF100. It is a way better deal, with the same reagent. I want to help you, but mixing those result with our advice, won't go well. I don't know why, but she didn't even test for the most important parameter FC.
Click to expand...

The unit that I run doesn't test things like Free CL2 but other units do, all I do its take a sample of the product I make and run it in a GC machine. But one of the two chemicals I mix in a reactor is vaporized CL2 so the guy that takes the liquid CL2 and vaporizes it can do the testing for me! I will be bring a sample to work tomorrow to have the guy that runs that unit test it for me. Im texting him right now and he said he can run pH, Free CL2, Hardness, Bromine, & Conductivity.

What is the difference between the Taylor 2006 and the TF100? Im guessing chances are finding them local is gonna be hard?

What about this one?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-5-Way-Pool-Test-Kit-62364/203796265

At this point, what are the things I need to test for so when looking at a test kit ill know what to look for?

Wayne
 
Here is he list of samples she gave me. She wasn't sure why all of them didn't print on the list because I have been there much more than the list documents.

C6C08B4A-D0B7-42D0-8798-3DB7A8AEE515.jpg


Wayne
 
The 2006 is hard to find local and you will not find the TF 100 anywhere except TF Teskits, or Pool Supply world. If you get it, order it from TFteskits. PSW is for those West of Tx.

The TF 100 has the exact same reagents, packaged in bigger quantities. It is by far the best deal. They are top shelf reagents. Also, the 2006 may be older, and the TF 100 is always fresh and warranted on freshness for 18 months. The 2006 is not.

FC is time sensitive in a water sample. So I would not suggest relying on that from the plant lab. It is best tested immediately.
 
About to order the TF100, do I need to get any of the additional options listed under the TF100?

I added PB to the pool yesterday after getting it sampled. I did this only because I had a some left and no one but me will be swimming in it for at least another 2-4 weeks. The wife thinks it is to cold and my son will NOT be getting in it until I get this **** straight!

Wayne
 
Forget the granular shock and buy liquid bleach. If you need CYA you can buy a canister from the pool aisle at Wal-Mart under Stabilizer/Conditioner. You can put it in a sock n hang it in front of your return.
 

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