New Construction: Cathedral City CA

Mornin' Dirk, It turns out that there are outlets in two areas, one above a counter and the second above the baseboard.

On another note - I've gotta come clean and admit (publicly) that I not started testing our fill water. I reviewed the 6 videos on this link (https://www.youtube.com/user/TF100TestKit/videos) and now will look to the TFP site for any other assistance.

I'll post later today my test results for the CYA, CH, FC, CC, TA and Ph (like I understand what I'm talking about :)

I stumbled upon TFP on day two of my fill. Abandoned by both my pool guy and the plaster co for a three-day weekend, I was forced to handle my new-plaster startup on my own! So learning startup and testing on the same day was very daunting. Looking back, if I had been prepared by fooling around with a new test kit and tap water or a neighbor's pool water the week or two before my fill, I'd of had a much easier go...
 
Oh, I'm sure it's been said, but just in case (and without rereading your thread): DO NOT STOP YOUR FILL ONCE IT STARTS! The potential to get a nasty ring where you stop a fill on new plaster/pebble is very high. Don't run water down the side. That can cause a stain too. Fill from the very bottom up. Use as many hoses as you can. Socks covering hose ends.

And here's a bit of an obscure one, but it did happen to my pool. I had a what I thought was some sort of crack running from my vacuum port down to the drain area. Turns out it wasn't a crack, but a line of calcium that had adhered itself to a stain caused by water leeching from the vacuum port during the original fill. That's all it takes. The water followed the path of least resistance, straight down the side and then a curvy path down to the deep end. The stain became permanent and later attracted a calcium deposit. Your plaster guys should leave all your ports (returns, filler, vacuum, etc) sealed off. PVC threaded caps with teflon tape. Not a drip or drop, would be my advice. No water from anywhere onto that new surface except from the very bottom up, as fast as possible... This might be a bit overkill for your acid-washed pebble, but why take the chance when prevention is pretty easy to do.
 
Following all instructions here are my results using our tap water that will fill our pool. (Note that we are contractually required for the pool company to maintain the pool for the first month)
CA Test - No resultI filled the tube to the top with no change in visibility of the dot

CH Test - 110
This was hard to determine when there was no more color shift. If I was to say when there was no more pinkish color I’d say 10 or 11 drops. But it appeared to continue to get a tad bit bluer until 13 drops. In the video it seems that the water turned grayish with no color, but since the bluish color seemed not to change I stopped. So what number should I record 10, 11 or 13?


TA - 120
11 to 12 drops. 11 drops the water turned a solid pink. 12 drops it seems to get pinker. 13 drops it did not seem to get even pinker


FAS/DPD Test - No result
When I placed a heaping amount of R-0870 there was zero color change. I used the speed stirrer and there was the slightest pink color for a moment, then it went back to clear. I did not proceed with the test


PH & FC Test - PH 7.8 CL .5 Br 1
On this test, when looking at the PH I would say it was 7.8 based on the color, though it seems a bit light. OR I would say 7.5 based on it’s about the same lightness, but the color is not as yellow as the target. So when evaluating is it based on color (hue) or lightness (density) ((to use photographers lingo)) Regarding the Cl .5 and the Br 1 (which I assume combined means FC?) There was no apparent color change so the minimum numbers were entered.





033018 - PH FC.jpg
 
I'll leave the answers to most of your questions to a TFP expert, but they are very close to the same questions I was asking myself at the same time trying to manage startup!! Very scary couple of days. Kudos for getting a jump on this part of the process! Got any neighbors with pools? Or put a drop of chlorine in the tap water, see what happens, and to get used to that test. I still struggle with the CH test, but fortunately that has such a large acceptable range in my pool that my test result is not so critical. You'll get that one down with a little more practice. There won't be any CYA in your fill water, so don't waste any more reagent practicing that test. Wait until you actually add some in. Besides, if you use my water meter trick, you'll be able to add CYA accurately based on water volume, more accurately than you can test for, IMO. Your CYA testing skills come into play after the pool has been subjected to time and rain and splashing, etc.

I will say what works for me on pH. I get some good light behind it (I use a white card under an LED light source.) I stare at the color, and instead of trying to find a match (which seems to move around on me for some reason), I go through each swatch on the left and ask: Is my pool's water more yellow/orange than the color swatch, or more magenta, then move to the next swatch in line. That usually gets me to the right swatch pretty quickly. If the pool water is not quite as pink as one swatch, but not quite as orange as the next one, then your pH number is in between those two swatches. I'm only looking at hue, not saturation (what you called "density"). When saturation was getting in my way, my TFP mentor Marty suggested trying four drops instead of five, which helped me immensely. A rep from Taylor warned against that idea, but it works for me and others here at TFP. YMMV.

Based on the picture... your water is not as magenta as 8.2, and not as orange as 7.5. I'd say your pH is 7.8.
 
Thanks for the filling reminder. Yes I have that at the top of my reminder list already, but always good to be reminded.

The sales rep cautioned about letting the hose rest against the pebble (bottom or sides of the pool) he said the coloring of the hose can/would transfer to the pebble as a permanent stain. He also suggested to fill from the spa and then let the spillways fill the pool. But after reading your comment about fill water traveling down the sides causing problems, I'm going to avoid that.

We still have a number of 2" pvc pipes that I'm thinking to thread the hoses through so the hose can extend to the center of the pool (see photo). I'll weight them down so they don't fall in. I can easily use 3 and maybe 4 hoses to fill the pool up. Then when it is full I'll move them all to the spa.

Question: Do you think the water from the hose dropping 5 feet down to the same place on the pebble surface might be an issue? I'll be here all day, I could set a timer to move the hoses a foot or two every 15 minutes until the height of the water would cushion the fall. Since we our shallow area is in the middle of the pool I was thinking of placing hoses at either end to fill the deeper sides first. Not sure how critical it is to fill the pool evenly.

Also, I checked there are a couple the spa jet pipes are not sealed, but I don't think water will be flowing through them. I get the impression that the pebble guy might be placing all those before he starts spraying the pebble. In the pool there is also an uncapped pipe that is connected too the auto fill, but I got the impression that the filling process only happens through the garden hoses

IMG_2029-LR.jpg
 
I can only say how I'd want it done, not necessarily best practice! (My caveat!!) Heed the sales guy's advice about the hose. Again, an ounce of prevention... I wouldn't use the autofill outlet. That should be capped off, unless you're sure it's bone dry.

I would not want the water to splash the surface. I like your pipe idea, I would just modify that a bit by lowering the hose(s) to just above the surface. Ends covered with socks just to be safe. Get the outlet of the water underwater as soon as possible. I believe the goal is to introduce the water to the plaster in one, even movement, from the deepest point up. So nothing running down the side, no stream running from shallow end to deep. Nothing dripping, nothing splashing, no waves or ripples. If I was using multiple hoses, they'd all be in the deep end. Hmmm, since you have two deep ends, and you'll be watching the fill, I'd split the hoses and fill each at the same time, and try to get the levels to meet each other in the shallow area at the same time, without one draining to the other. But don't turn off one side to achieve that, just slow one side down a bit (a bit!!), but keep the fill going at all times. Once the hose ends are underwater, which should just be a few minutes, then, sure, move them around a little, if you like. I don't think it matters, but it can't hurt, so why not?

Again, with the acid-washed pebble, I don't think this is as critical as plaster. But you only get one shot at this, why not take a few precautions. We just had a guy here that stopped his fill midway and now has a very nasty ring, so staining is possible and new plaster is very sensitive (and pebble is embedded in plaster)...

The story above was a misunderstanding between the PO and PB. I didn't hear how it got resolved. Point being, whatever your fill strategy, please run it by the PB. What you don't want is to end up with a problem that the PB can later say is not his doing, since you used some hair-brained fill scheme from some guy named Dirk! If it's between doing it his way and any other way, then ya gotta do it his way, so he'd be bound to resolve any resulting problem. So discuss it with the PB (not just the sales guy) and tell him what you want. If he says "Yes" then you're good to go.

Oh, and I didn't see this part of my replaster, but I'm pretty sure that the threaded return fittings go on before the pebble is shot. It's what they flush the pebble to. Then they thread a plug into the fittings to keep the pebble out. So it's not your current set of caps I'm referring to. Regardless of the order, what you're looking for when they're done is a threaded plug (sorry, not cap, I misspoke) in each return that seals up the plumbing. My crew used the same fitting and eyeball on my autofill pipe as they did on the returns. I asked them about it. They said they just like to make them all look alike. The eyeball doesn't do anything, but I do like the idea of having a threaded end on my autofill pipe, so I can cap it off in the future if the need ever arises...

This is what my crew used, along with teflon tape, after they glued on the female to the return pipes:

Screen Shot 2018-03-30 at 2.07.51 PM.jpg
 
I'm only looking at hue, not saturation (what you called "density").

Great advise.

I'll do my tests during the first month and just not bother sharing or discussing them with the builder's pool guy. I get the impression if they know I'm going to do something other than what their pool guy trained me for, they will use that as an excuse if something goes wrong. So I will have a good amount of time to practice until the pool is turned over to me.

I imagine that what he considers is balanced will be way off where the TFP people suggest it should be.

You referenced Saturation in reference to my use if the word Density. In color terminology those two terms are very different, I taught color for many years and just can't resist to clarify the differences in the terms (whenever given the opportunity:)

Density: (also called Lightness, Brightness and Value) do not take the Hue or the Saturation into consideration, just how light or dark something is. It does not matter if it is grayscale or any hue or saturation.

Hue: Only distinguishes the color family. Red, Green, Blue, Cyan, Magenta, Yellow and any mixture of those. Again it does not matter the density or saturation.

Saturation: Only distinguishes the purity of the color. This can range from gray, to dusty rose to hot pink.

Not sure it this helps or hurts the discussion :).

I think I read somewhere about adding more or less drops when doing the PH and FC tests. Some tricks I used to tell my students when trying to discern when comparing some color was to stare at them without focusing or to close their eyes for a few seconds and look at the colors for a brief time. Our eyes (or brain) plays a lot of tricks on us.

This chart below would be more accurate if the cone shape continued upward getting smaller and lighter until it upper point became white.

Please forgive me for bringing color theory into a pool discussion.

HSV.jpg
 
No, cool. I work in color and don't use the term density. And you're absolutely right, saturation is color to gray, not color to lightness/brightness. I didn't know you were so versed! I should have used lightness, but when I explain color to my clients, saturation seems to resonate better, even if it's technically inaccurate. I don't think the discussion is misplaced. I think a lot of us newbies struggle with the color comparisons of these tests, and establishing the vocabulary is half the battle.

Regarding the pool guy. Tough one. I really resented my re-plasterers dumping the startup into my lap. We had agreed that the startup would be done by a local pool guy, with which we were both familiar. But that was me paying him, he didn't work for the plaster co. On his day one, I caught him doing some questionable things, and then he took off for a three-day weekend. On day two-three-four, I was on my own! I found TFP (after a brief stint with the local Leslie's) and knew almost immediately that the pool guy was way off on what little he did do. So I just fired him and finished the startup myself, convinced that even with a few errors, my pool would be better off (and that turned out to be true). But there was no contractual element in my case. I think you're on the right track. Do your own testing, and watch him like a hawk. Ask the PB if it's OK if you do a little extra brushing (my pool guy brushed the pool for about 5 minutes, left his brush, and took off for three days)! Then if you see that the balance is off, go to the PB, or better yet, write to him in an email, and explain your concern and ask him what can be done. That establishes "the trail" and keeps him on his toes, too. There's nothing controversial in TFPC, so if you find that the balance is off, the PB shouldn't have much to dispute. And if it were me, I'd insist that I be consulted about any chemical added to the pool. There shouldn't be any need for anything going in there that isn't TFP sanctioned. If there is, same deal: email the PB, express your concern. That'll likely make him crazy, but so what. He'll be gone in a puff of smoke in four days, and he won't look back. You'll have to live with the pool forever.

I was totally surprised to learn here how common it is in the industry for PBs and plasterers to just take off, with little or no guidance for the PO. Seems incredibly short-sighted, liability-wise, but it seems to happen a lot. You're so far ahead of the game compared to most new owners, who get handed a cheap test kit and the address of the local pool store!

You're going to do great!! Chances are everything will go just "swimmingly." The pool guy will do his thing, and you'll be sure of it by keeping an eye on him. Then in a month, it's all TFPC!!
 
This is me :rockon: while Dirk does all of the heavy lifting! :hug: thanks Dirk!

Yorker, thanks for the color lesson! I love learning new things! Might have to re-read a couple of times to get it to stick though. This is your thread so feel free to post just about anything (g-rated) you want. One build thread a couple of years back as all about their pet goat! Loved that one!

Filling the pool-so long as you have the metal ends of the hose covered you can put your hose in the pool. What I tell everyone is to put the end right over the main drain if there is one. If not then put it at the lowest part of the pool as you do NOT want it to run down the plaster in any way. You also do not want to the the let it fall down onto the new plaster. Talk about splash and such! So far I have not heard of any of the builds I have told to do this say a word about any color coming off the hose.

Kim:kim:
 
DIRK - Colore Paisano! What type of work do you do? My background was in photography and graphic design for print and web.

I was just checking out the Wall Whale brush I got. Any suggestions for the type or length of pole I should get? (the deep end is 5' and the width is 9').

Also, I see you have a Pentair Rebel, do you recommend it?
(amazon: Amazon.com : Pentair Rebel - Automatic Suction Pool Cleaner : Garden Outdoor)
 

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Thanks Kim. My sister raised goats (among many other animals). They were so friendly, but gotta say their eyes freaked me out ...

Something I just thought about. We are going to have dirt (sand) all around the pool for 3 to 4 weeks after the pool is filled as we prepare for pavers and artificial turf. I'm sure there will be days or nights with some kick as winds. Will this permanently mess up the pebble during this time it is curing? Or will and auto vacuum like Dirk's Rebel be helpful during those windy times.
 
DIRK - Colore Paisano! What type of work do you do? My background was in photography and graphic design for print and web.

I was just checking out the Wall Whale brush I got. Any suggestions for the type or length of pole I should get? (the deep end is 5' and the width is 9').

Also, I see you have a Pentair Rebel, do you recommend it?
(amazon: Amazon.com : Pentair Rebel - Automatic Suction Pool Cleaner : Garden Outdoor)

Almost same. I'm a graphic designer for print and web, but I do the color correcting after photographers do their thing. I am responsible for making certain famous food items in magazines look like they're tasty. Probably shouldn't mention the client, but I work with a lot of reds!

I haven't tried the Whale. It gets good marks from many here. Certainly sounds like a good idea. Can't comment on pole length, other than a few extra inches seems to be generally acceptable. Oh, I meant a few extra feet. Mine is adjustable, so I think it goes from 10' to 20' or something like that.

Pool cleaners... yikes, I'm gunna need a pros and cons table!

My rebel works great. But I don't have a particularly dirty pool. The previous owners did an amazing job of designing my pool and surrounding landscape. I don't get much debris at all. Rebel stays in my pool, so I don't think about it. I run it every day in the wee hours. I can remove it easily for a big swim group. The floating hose can be a nuisance. It's often in my way (though easy to push aside). I wish I didn't have to look at it or the Rebel for that matter. The floating hose can't be helping surface skimming. It's not terribly expensive for the work it saves me. My pool surfaces are more often than not perfectly clean. It misses items periodically. Get's 'em the next day. It will crawl up the sides. It requires a good amount of RPM (electricity), and it "empties the trash" into the main pump's basket and the main filter. If I had a lot of leaves, cleaning the pump's basket would be way more work than cleaning the on-board gizmos of the other two choices:

I had a Polaris pressure side vac. It probably worked a little better, but required emptying of it's little bag, and a booster pump, which was failing. So the pool guy talked me into the Rebel, and I didn't question it much, so no research to back up my comments. The Polaris uses more electricity than the Rebel. But it doesn't dirty the main filter. It has the same hose issues. It also has a tail that sprays water out of the pool at the most inconvenient times (like when you're standing there). The spray reached my back windows regularly, and the previous owners let that go, which later required a day of mechanical polishing to remove the residue that neglect left behind. No chemical would work. I think the general consensus is pressure side is old school and not something in the running anymore (though they still sell plenty of 'em).

Robots are all the rage here at TFP. They clean well, and they brush at the same time (something my Rebel does not do). But they have a big black cord that must run through your yard, over your deck and coping and into the pool. I don't like that. Some leave their robots in the water, others take them out after each use (I would not want to do either). They're not cheap. But you can get 'em with remote controls, which would be awesome. They also have to be emptied periodically. There is a rechargeable model, but I wouldn't go near that, just another daily(?) maintenance chore. Robots use the least electricity, by, like, a lot.

And lastly there are safety concerns. Pressure side, I would wager, are the safest. Water is being pumped into the pool. They work by a venturi-type principle. There is no real danger to them that I can think of.

Robots need electricity underwater. No two ways about it. I would wager (with the money I won on the Polaris bet), that the real-world danger is incredibly small. But it is there.

Suction side vacs, like the Rebel, do just that, they suck. The vacuum port is where the real danger is. It has a spring-loaded safety cover that is not easy to open even when the pump is off. But that's assuming the safety flap exists and is working (they're just plastic, after all). So the scenario is: humans in the pool, vac hose removed, safety cover defeated in some way: pump comes on at high RPM, human gets its nice soft belly skin up to the port... insert imagination, suffice to say, it can be as bad as you can imagine (and this is not theoretical, it has happened). But like the electrical hazard of a robot, a whole lot has to go wrong all at once to pose the danger. My safeguards are the flap, an automated valve that shuts off the port except during vacuum time, and vacuuming in the middle of the night. Safe. -ish. But not fool proof.

Couldn't say which danger is more likely. Suction if you twisted my arm, only because a robot would have to fail to put electricity in the water, and then a GFI would presumably kick in. The suction danger could conceivably be orchestrated by accident if a person inadvertently did something (like put the pool into vacuum mode through automation while somebody was in the pool fooling with the port).

I'm sure that's only half of the considerations, others can add to the lists...
 
Something I just thought about. We are going to have dirt (sand) all around the pool for 3 to 4 weeks after the pool is filled as we prepare for pavers and artificial turf. I'm sure there will be days or nights with some kick as winds. Will this permanently mess up the pebble during this time it is curing? Or will and auto vacuum like Dirk's Rebel be helpful during those windy times.

Can't comment on sand on pebble.

There seems to be mixed opinion on when, exactly, you can start using a cleaner on plaster/pebble. My crew let me put my Rebel on my new pebble the first week. I see no ill-effects of that. I think it's a bigger deal for plaster. Others are told not to run cleaners for weeks or a month (or more). I'm not sure where to get the definitive answer. Certainly not sooner than your PB says (liability issue again).

I think it's about the wheels. So maybe manual vacuum? Seems like your pool shape would be easy to tarp? Do robots put less wear and tear down on pool surfaces than suction vacs?
 
They mention manual vacuuming which may be something I start with.

That's certainly the cheapest and safest choice, while you research. I'm not sure I'd describe manual vacuuming as "quality time with your pool" as the article suggests, though!

You need a pole anyway. A vacuum head and hose might be less than $50 total, and certainly could be handy to have around even after you get a machine... I can use my Rebel's hose to vacuum manually, so I only needed the $20 vacuum head thingie.
 
I believe every pool should have a manual vacuum. For new plaster it is suggested to wait 4 weeks before using anything with wheels. We had one pool that used the wheeled cleaner the first week and it left track "grooves" in the new plaster :(

I have good luck with this simple vacuum head: https://www.amazon.com/U-S-Pool-Supply-Weighted-Butterfly/dp/B071X7CRZQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1522497938&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=butterfly+vacuum+head&psc=1

The sand should not cause a problem if/when it gets in the pool. You might want to think about asking around to see if there are any tarps you can barrow to stake down on the dirt to help keep it in place if things get out of hand.

Kim:kim:
 
Thanks Kim. My sister raised goats (among many other animals). They were so friendly, but gotta say their eyes freaked me out ...

Something I just thought about. We are going to have dirt (sand) all around the pool for 3 to 4 weeks after the pool is filled as we prepare for pavers and artificial turf. I'm sure there will be days or nights with some kick as winds. Will this permanently mess up the pebble during this time it is curing? Or will and auto vacuum like Dirk's Rebel be helpful during those windy times.

Why finish the pool before all the decking and landscape is in place?
 
Why finish the pool before all the decking and landscape is in place?

Come on people! 'Cause he wants to get in the dern thing!! :paddle:

Sure would be nice to have a pool to jump into in between bouts of laying pavers and digging dirt while out and about in the hot So Cal sun!

Do you all think it's that big of an issue to work around the pool? Is it just the errant dirt and sand? Or something else?
 

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