New build in Atlanta, GA - Nov 24

It is about to be real!

I love the tiles you are thinking about. One thing to think about with them is looking through all of them to see if there are any that are "ugly" or extra pretty. Pull the ugly ones so they don't get used. You can also mix up the tiles a bit so like ones are not side by side. Yeah I do have control issues LOL but I have seen enough builds where this was needed and not done. The tile had to be redone as it was not at all pleasing to the eye. The installers just pulled from the box. All of the lighter colored ones were put together in one area with all of the darker ones in another. All of them had to be removed and replaced :(
 
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Talking about depths....It more depends on your height. My wife and I are short, so we are going for 3.5 on shallow, 5.5 on deep end. Don't worry about your guests, as its your pool. Also, where abouts in Atl? I am south of it in Senoia.
 
I have a question regarding seat water depth for the spa.

I am planning on doing two different heights. A total of 36’’ from bottom of spa to spill over (waterline). Part of the spa will be 18’’ from floor to seat, 18’’ from seat to spillover. The other seat will be 16’’ floor to seat, 20’’ from seat to spillover.

Is this average? What is a normal seat depth?

Thanks
 
Well we have a hole! We are going to have to add helical piers on Monday due to soil conditions. We anticipated that all along, but wanted to do the dig to be sure. So next up is helicals then plumbing and rebar.
 

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Sorry about no answer for the seat depths. I love different depths. One that allows almost your whole body covered for one then one that comes to about chest level and maybe another that only comes up to the middle tummy.

Now this....................LET the dirt/mub begin!!!! LOL

Run out there with the plans. Make sure all of the depths and lengths are correct. Add about 6" for the rebar, shell, and plaster. NOW is the time to fix or change if wanted or needed.
 

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Good luck with the new build! We are also in the Atlanta area and had concerns about needing helical piers but fortunately the builder said we were fine with the red clay they found after the dig. We had plenty of other challenges with permitting and easements which prevented us from doing a larger pool but we are very happy with the end result.
 
Good news on piers, only needed them in shallow end and spa and the bedrock was not nearly as deep as expected.

We’re on to plumbing tomorrow. Here was the list I sent my builder of particulars I want to make sure of, anything I’m forgetting?

1) do NOT want to do spa upgrade - will leave with 8 standard jets
2) autofill hooked into irrigation line
3) snap photos of plumbing before buried
4) skimmers plumbed independently to equip pad each with individual 3 way valve
5) Plumb overflow line and drain
6) Want a spa seat with a lower back jet and another with upper back jet (jets at different heights)
7) One seat in spa without a jet where we will do a step out in front corner
8) Plumb pump to filter to heater to salt cell (with anti corrosion valve between salt and heater)
9) Add a bypass of heater
10) 3 way valve between spa and pool return
11) Put a return over tanning shelf to push water over top of it
12) Separate bubbler from spa spillover

Thanks all!
 
Make sure the main drain is on it's own run to the pad with a valve as well. Some will tie it in with the skimmer run.

Did we talk about a light over the equipment pad? If not then make sure there is some kind of light. You will thank me when you have to run out there when it is a stormy, dark night!
 
That looks like a pretty solid list to me. I would also ask that they not use any of the cheap ball valves for any of the plumbing. I forgot to request that from our builder and we ended up with a mix of the nicer Jandy valves and the cheap ball valves. Go figure we had an issue with a Jandy valve not closing completely (because they used too much glue and damaged the opening) so when they came to replace the Jandy valve I had them rip out all the ball valves and replace them with Jandy valves as well.
 
Also, I have a very similar equipment list to what you're getting so I'll be curious to know how they configure the heater bypass. Our builder claims I was the first customer in his 20 years in the business who had asked for a heater bypass and they had some challenges getting it to work with our setup. I ultimately had to rewire it myself and change a few settings in IntelliCenter to get it working as I wanted.
 
SWEET!!! That looks great!

It is time for your set of links! The first set is all about what to do and ask about to get a great plaster job. The second set is all about how to care for your pool after you get the plaster.

Plaster links:Ten Guidelines for Quality Pool Plaster Best one of all
All Plaster Finishes Should Last 20 Years
Not All Color Pigments are Good for Pools How to pick a good color for plaster.
A Plastering 'Watch List' | Professional Watershaping | Watershapes
Trouble Free Pool
Trouble Free Pool

Pool care links:
Print these out:
Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule
Pool School - Recommended Levels

Bookmark these:
www.troublefreepool.com

Recommended Pool Chemicals

Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.
www.troublefreepool.com
www.troublefreepool.com

PoolMath


www.troublefreepool.com
www.troublefreepool.com
www.troublefreepool.com

ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry

There are several items things every pool owner should know about swimming pool water. We share details on the basics of Pool Water Chemistry.
www.troublefreepool.com
www.troublefreepool.com

Now is also a good time to ask what test kit your PB will be providing so we can fill in any holes.

Kim:kim:
 

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