New Build / First Test

[Kuivato]

I've been lurking for a few days. First time posting. New pool build with water added 3 weeks ago. Pool Builder stopped by two weeks ago, dumped some chemicals and left. They didn't tell me what they added; I'm on my own. They're as close to worthless as a company can get, but I digress. First time pool owner and really want to take care of things myself. Found this website, read as much as I could to date, made a donation, downloaded the app, paid for a subscription, added to my signature line and then ordered my TF-Pro Salt with Smartstir test kit which arrived today. I have added roughly 25oz of liquid chlorine the last 3 evenings as I waited for the kit to arrive. I've been brushing, skimming and running the pump 8 hours a day. Pool is very clear. Very first readings in PoolMath was from Leslie's. First readings from my kit below:

FC: 3.5
CC: 0
TC: 3.5
PH: 8.2+
CH: 325
TA: 110
SALT: 600
CYA: 110

This is a salt water pool, but too early to start the SWG from what I've read. Ok, so I have my kit and ready to get started on getting it swim ready. It was only 114º degrees today!

Now what?

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! Holy smokes look at that CYA. Someone has been adding a lot of stabilizer/conditioner for such a new pool. Plus your pH is much too high. But the CYA is our biggest concern right now. Normally we would advise to replace some water to lower it, but with relatively new plaster I'm not so sure that's a good idea right now. Hang tight. Let me tag @JamesW for a second opinion on exchanging water in such new plaster. If he says no, we'll go to Plan B.

 

[Kuivato]

Hi everyone. Sorry, I’m getting a little anxious here. I left a message with the pool builder…no response yet, of course.

 

[Texas Splash]

@JoyfulNoise what are your thoughts on a partial water exchange in a 3-week old pool? A bit tough may be an understatement with the sun this time of year.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

I wouldn’t do it. New plaster and heat exposure is asking for trouble and would likely void any warranty. Simply manage the chlorine for a high CYA pool. When you get to turn on the SWG run it to keep your FC levels up around 5ppm and supplement with liquid chlorine as needed. Don’t let the FC drop below 5ppm. You should be able to manage the pool until the Fall comes and the air temps are lower. Then an exchange-drain can be done to reduce CYA.

 

[IceShadow]

Have you done the diluted CYA test to confirm the high number?

 

[Kuivato]

I just completed the diluted CYA test and getting a reading of 60 x 2 = 120.

This is unbelievable to think it's 3 weeks old and I already have a major problem.

Since it's too soon to turn on my SWG, the PoolMath app says my target FC should be 8, yet it only says to add 20oz of 10% liquid chlorine until I reach my target. Assuming that may take me a few days...and then maintaining that high FC is going to cost a pretty penny. Surely, the pool builder is going to balk when I ask them to deliver gallons and gallons of liquid chlorine between now and when Scottsdale drops to cooler temps for the issue they caused.

What's the answer to the high PH since I wouldn't want to add any more Muriatic Acid?

All of this seems to be shaping up to not being able to use the pool anytime soon.

 

[IceShadow]

Out of curiosity what are the dimensions of your pool? I’m not familiar with many 3k gallon in-ground pools.

 

[Kuivato]

This is more of a SPOOL!

3,450 Gallons
Shallow 3’ 6” to Deep 4’ 6”
Dimensions: 12’ 6” x 9’ 3”

 

[IceShadow]

Ok. You should have a pretty low amount of chems needed for that small of a pool so maintaining higher FC shouldn’t be that expensive. 20oz is not too bad at all - that’s like 1/4 gallon, and a gallon of LC is about $3-$5 now depending on where you can find it.

If your pH is still high dose again for a drop to 7.6. Let mix, test again. Repeat until down to 7.6.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

3.5lbs of granular stabilizer in your pool volume would raise your CYA by 120ppm

Or

1 gallon of liquid stabilizer and a 1 lb bag of Dichlor shock would raise your CYA by 120ppm


To an untrained laborer sent by the PB to go “dose a pool”, adding a gallon of stabilizer and a bag of shock would be pretty much standard for starting up a pool … a pool 4X your volume. So my guess is the PB just did what they do to every new pool without thinking and that’s why your CYA is so high.

At the end of the day, this nothing to freak out about. Your water is brand new and, at this point, clear. Just make sure you keep your FC at 5ppm or above and know that you’ll likely lose somewhere between 2-4ppm per day. Keep that up until you can start the SWG (28 days after fill) and then you’ll be able to manage the pool until the Fall. You’re going to be using lots of acid to keep the pH in check but all you need to do is aim for a pH of 7.6 and then don’t drop it until it goes over 7.8. At first your acid additions might be daily or every other day. It will get better with time. As soon as you get the FC in the water, go swimming and try not to let this bad experience ruin your enjoyment of the pool.

 

[Kuivato]

Since we're not talking about a 20,000 gallon pool, is there a way (again, brand new at this) to drain and fill at the same time? I wouldn't be exposing the new plaster since theoretically I would think it would drain/fill at the same rate, but definitely get some cleaner water in. I don't know what that process would look like, but I do have a sewer cleanout relatively close and a main floor drain.
Just wondering if that route would get me closer to square one?

 

[IceShadow]

Certainly. It’s called a no-drain water exchange. See here:

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Still, I’d follow Matt’s advice above. He knows what he’s about.