New and Chasing Balance

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jgates237

jgates237

0
May 31, 2017
51
Lee, NY
Hi Everyone,

Stumbled across this site after getting fed up with the pool store run around. I've been fighting algae and cloudy water for a few weeks now due to ignorance and total dependency on the local pool stores. I will stand for it no longer. Just a few minutes on here gave me to confidence and determination that I need to take matters into my own hands. That plus I was told by the pool store that I had the dreaded "Chlorine Lock". After seeing you guys rip that concept to shreds I knew I was in a better place. That said, here are my symptoms...

FC: 0.2ppm
TC: 1.79ppm
CC: 1.59ppm
pH: 7.5 Yes!
CH: 161ppm
Alkalinity: 68ppm
CYA: 22ppm
copper 0.3ppm
Iron: 0.1ppm

The instructions the pool store gave me said to put the alkalinity in first (~13lbs), then CH (~21lbs), then liquid shock (5gals) then finally stabilizer/CYA (4lbs)

Couple of questions...Should the Stabilizer be added before the shock? My instructions have it going in last but I read somewhere that the CYA needs to be in limits prior to adding shock. Also, how long should I wait between each of the ingredients? Any other recommendations?

Last point is I just order the TF-100 kit!

Thanks in advance for the help!
 
Welcome! You're definitely in the right place, and good job on your gut telling you that "Chlorine Lock" was fishy.

First, don't worry about CH, you have a vinyl liner. There's no point. Don't worry about Alkalinity. You can fix that later if you need to. The problem is that you have algae in your pool and likely a cocktail of chemicals trying to compete for chlorine demand too. You will probably need to do what we call a SLAM. It basically involves keeping the FC values at a shock-level value permanently until the issue clears up.

The good news is you have a good test kit arriving soon! The bad news is that you can't really do much until that kit gets here, because pool store test results are unreliable. It won't hurt to add some of that chlorine for now, to at least prevent further algae growth. Once you get your first set of results, post them here and we'll help get you started on fixing the problem. In the meantime, check out Pool School here and start to understand what will be involved in this SLAM, and also why it works. The end goal will not only be a sparkling clear pool, but the education and ability to properly manage it yourself from here on out, and only having to visit a pool store when you need accessories that are cheaper than you can find online. :)
 
I see no reason to adjust your alkalinity. (Except to increase your acid demand to drive you back to the pool store to buy more acid). You have a vinyl pool... so the CH doesn't make sense.

Skip those.

What have you been using to chlorinate your water?

There is reason to doubt your CYA readings: 1) They were given to you by the pool store. 2) They were talking about "Chlorine Lock", which indicates there is too MUCH CYA. 3) Most people who follow pool store advice chlorinate and shock with products that add CYA to the water.

Get a good test kit, and test your water before adding any CYA. I'd guess you are higher than you think you are and you may make matters worse.

In the meantime, I'd take the FC level up to about 10 ... About 4 gallons of 6% bleach.

Or... what is that "liquid shock" exactly? Good chance that it's just liquid chlorine. Check the ingredients, and percentage.
 
^^^ Excellent and thanks for the quick reply! I went to Pool School a short while ago but will do so again as some things take a while to sink in with me. I'll also throw in the liquid shock after yet another rain squall passes through (brutal year for pools). I like the thought of getting my supplies that are equivalent to items such as Borax and baking soda anywhere else other than the pool store. Time to start recouping my funds.
 
jgates237 said:
^^^ Excellent and thanks for the quick reply! I went to Pool School a short while ago but will do so again as some things take a while to sink in with me. I'll also throw in the liquid shock after yet another rain squall passes through (brutal year for pools). I like the thought of getting my supplies that are equivalent to items such as Borax and baking soda anywhere else other than the pool store. Time to start recouping my funds.
Click to expand...

You're on the right track, then! If it helps, just think of all the money you've spent on chemicals as a good education. :) And yes, I revisited Pool School about every few weeks when I was first starting. Once you start to see how things work in person, revisiting that information is important to help really figure out how it all works. And then, like many of us, you might get addicted to helping other people see the light. :)
 
I'm with drharris.....don't do much until your TF-100 gets in and we can get some accurate test results. Should take about three days from today so meanwhile simply put 1 small jug of clorox in the pool each evening. We'll all help get your pool water crystal clear.

The copper reading is borderline high. Have you been putting anything in the pool with copper in it? Algaecides, maybe?
 
Yes, way too much algaecide (~40oz.) My pool had a green algae on the bottom almost like a spinach when I opened it. Not sure why that was as I opened early to try and avoid this sort of thing.

Copy, bottle of Clorox each evening.
 
File away in the back of your mind to keep your pH a little bit low this summer. You do not want that Copper to precipitate onto your pool walls......it is almost impossible to remove. Keeping the pH down around 7.2 - 7.4 will help prevent that.....you might go through extra muriatic acid to keep it there but it is cheap insurance against copper stains.

With water replacement, it'll probably be fine by next summer..
 

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Ahhhaaa. From the Pool School - "Trichlor - Commonly sold as tablets or pucks that you simply put into an automatic container that passes pool water over them and they slowly dissolve - putting chlorine and CYA into your water and lowers the pH. They are incredibly convenient and incredibly insidious. The CYA that they put into your pool water doesn't get used up, and instead accumulates. Eventually the CYA level will build up to a point that renders your chlorine ineffective. Typically, everything is fine, until one day you start to develop algae and don't understand why."

This may explain why I routinely would get algae (pink stuff) late in the year as I previously was a tablet monster. I'm guessing CYA buildup was killing my chlorine's ability to do it's job. It's amazing how little I understood before yesterday albeit if I were given a test today I'd still do poorly.

Being that my CYA is estimated (pool store analysis) at 22ppm then I should keep them in there as per your direction. It would be great if once I get my kit that the CYA is at 30ppm.

Thanks for the assistance. You guys are great.
 
jgates237 said:
Being that my CYA is estimated (pool store analysis) at 22ppm then I should keep them in there as per your direction. It would be great if once I get my kit that the CYA is at 30ppm.

Thanks for the assistance. You guys are great.
Click to expand...
Crossing my fingers for you. Three different pool stores told me my CYA was in the 70 - 90 range. When I got my test kit it was over 200! They can be that wrong.

While you wait for your TF-100, you have a homework reading assignment (you may have seen them already). Start with ABCs of Water Chemistry and Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis
 
I've been through the ABC's a couple of times now but as with everything, it takes multiple times for things to sink in with me.

My fingers are crossed too! I'm hoping the pool store is close. They supposedly have a quality water tester as opposed to the other store who pretty much just uses a test strip.
 
jgates237 said:
I've been through the ABC's a couple of times now but as with everything, it takes multiple times for things to sink in with me.

My fingers are crossed too! I'm hoping the pool store is close. They supposedly have a quality water tester as opposed to the other store who pretty much just uses a test strip.
Click to expand...
Did the "quality water tester" look like this? WaterLink Spin Lab - 3576 - Pool and Spa - LaMotte

Two of the places with my results used it.....
 
CYA does degrade some but in general, you need to drain and refill to reduce your CYA.

Another item on placing the trichlor (pucks) in the skimmer. Unless you are running your pump 24/7 this practice will damage your skimmer, pump, filter internals, etc. You creating an extremely acidic brew in our skimmer when the pump is not running.
 
Funny you say that about running your pump 24/7 as that has been my practice since having the pool installed. I've probably unnecessarily wasted a couple of 2-speed motors in the process. Based on what I've seen here I believe I can reduce the run time to 4-6 hr/day once I get everything right.

I'll make sure that the tablets are out when the pump is off. Thanks for the heads up.
 
TF100 & 1st Test Results

UPS just arrived with my TF100 kit! I immediately went to work and came up with the following results:

PH: 7.2 - Do I need to do anything with this? I ask b/c in a previous post duraleigh recommended I should try and keep my PH lower (7.2-7.4) due to high copper reading (lots of algaecide added earlier)
FC: 1
CC: 3.5
TC: 4.5
CH: 275
TA: 110
CYA: 20

The pool water has some green algae. I've been putting a gallon of 10% liquid chlorine in as per duraleigh's instructions while awaiting the arrival of my kit. My guess is based on what I've read here so far is I should get my CYA and PH up a bit before going for the SLAM.

Pool Math says the following:

Raise my PH from 7.2 to 7.5 (if necessary) I need: 108oz of Borax
Raise my CYA from 20 to 30 I need: ~39oz of stabilizer
Raise my FC to shock level of 12 (CYA/Chlorine chart) for CYA of 30: 394 oz of Liquid chlorine

So, should I add my Borax then do the stabilizer in the sock routine before I go to the SLAM process?

Thanks everyone in advance.
 
Re: TF100 & 1st Test Results

Congrats on the test kit - don't forget to change that signature.

Do not worry about your pH. 7.2 is fine to SLAM and once once you elevate your FC over 10 it wont be accurate.

First things first...FC. Add it now and start Slamming. If you haven't read the SLAM article and follow it precisely. Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

You could add a little CYA to get to 30 as you mentioned, no harm there and will help protect your FC during SLAM. I would do this after you are Slamming, just shoot for 12 ppm FC target to start with.

Good luck!!
 

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