Needing help in Illinois!

Jump to latest Follow Reply
T

Tara37

Member
May 12, 2019
9
Vandalia, IL
Hi all! OK, I have been reading and researching and I am ready to dive in. We have owned a small 18,000 gallon inground pool since 2016. This year (a week ago) when we opened our pool the water was almost black. It was really filthy. I took a sample to the pool store like we have done for the past two years and they gave me 12 bags of shock, a bottle of algaecide, and Bioguard pool open complete. We did this last year and it was fine. This year the water just wouldn't respond. It did slowly clear up but the water remained a greenish color. I have since been back to the pool store two more times. They informed me my water is chlorine tied. Friday they had me put in 15 gallons of liquid shock and then my numbers were still bad yesterday so they gave me a non chlorine oxidizer (4 bags), and I was to put another bag of shock in today. It is still slightly greenish, and I am supposed to take another water sample back in tomorrow. Just no. Done. I have already spend over $200 and I'm sure if I go back tomorrow I can add to that. I need to get a better water tester. I am currently using an hth kit that I have no idea if the readings are good. Any advice on where to start and what to be looking at? I have been reading through a lot of this and would assume I am going to be told to partially drain and refill? For reference, at the pool store at least, my CYA levels were low. They were also reading low with my hth kit. Help is much appreciated!!
 
Welcome! :wave: Well, you've been pool-stored for sure. Here's a quick Rx for success:
- Get the TF-100 (link below). Since you have algae, I would also get the XL option and should consider the magnetic speedstir
- You will need to perform a SLAM Process, but only after you have the proper test kit.
- You will want to start reading the ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry, SLAM Process, FC/CYA Levels, PoolMath links.
- Make sure to update your signature with all of your pool and equipment info.
- All that pool store junk probably caused problems of their own, but we'll see. A partial water exchange may not be a bad idea. Just don't go too low. Get as much junk & muck out now before the test kit arrives. Once it gets there, post a full set of water results and we'll help you get that water back.
 
Ok! Thank you. I couldn't find what was recommended here for testing, so thanks for the link. Would I still have algae in it after an entire bottle of algaecide? They told me it was green because of the chlorine tie. The pool is now clean and I have vacuumed to waste all dead algae, so the water is perfectly clear. Just green. Lol. We have had a pool for many years, but this is just our third season with this one. I have never had water look like this so I really am clueless. Thanks for the quick reply
 
Algaecides aren't designed to kill/remove algae, only help prevent it before it starts. Can you post a pic of your water? Also, are you on a well? I have a sneaky feeling the clear green may be related to something other than algae, but we'll see. If you've been using the products the local store has been recommended for 3 years, it's quite possible you have a large amount of copper (among other things) built-up in there from those products. The only way to lower copper is water exchange. But let's not get ahead of ourselves. Let's see that water, and of course once you get the test kit we'll be able to help a LOT.
 
While you are waiting for your TF-100 find a local source for pure bleach or liquid chlorine. Bleach without any additives, fragrances, or splashless additives, and not Clorox that contains Cloromax Technology which is polymers not suitable for pools. Learn to read the date codes on the bottles as you want chlorine not more than 3 months old. You will find threads here about where to find chlorine and how to read date codes.
 
The pic doesn't show what I was expecting. Doesn't look too bad from that angle actually. But for now, until the test kit arrives, do some reading on those links and the ones in my signature. Don't forget your signature as well. Don't add anymore pool store chemicals. If you still have some drops in that HTH drop kit, just try to keep the FC (with regular bleach) around 3-5 ppm, and the pH in the 7.5-7.8 range. We'll fine-tune things once the good kit arrives.
 
Ok, I have read through all of the links, and just got my TF-100 today. My pool water looks even better today. The greenish color gets better everyday, but my numbers look off.

ph-7.2
free chlorine- 1
CC-5
Calcium- 225
TA-210
CYA- less than 20

I am getting ready to put in stabilizer to bring that up. I wasn't sure how to handle the high alkalinity. I have muriatic acid, but if I use it, will it lower my ph as well? And I can see that I will need to SLAM it. Do those numbers indicate algae growth?
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Finally done! My pool looks better than it did all year last year. The greeenish look it had is completely gone. Numbers are:
ph.- 7.2
FC- 5.5
CC- .5
TA- 210
Calcium- 225
CYA- 30
I know my TA is high, but if I mess with bringing it down will my ph come down with it?
 
Your TA is fine. Your pH is fine. Whenever your pH gets to 8 lower it to 7.2. Continually doing that will lower your TA over time.

What is the pH and TA of your fill water?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply