Need to replace a cracked backwash valve

[BrianR170]

Today I discovered my backwash valve is leaking. I pulled it apart because I saw the white hard water build-up and I assumed it was the O-ring at the top, but it turns out the housing is cracked near the top and disassembling it made it worse.

The valve is a Sta-Rite WC212-134P (14936) and it was part of the original pool install in June 1995.

My dilemma is that the valve housing is glued to the pool-side PVC pipes and there isn't enough actual pipe exposed anywhere to splice in new fittings. Additionally, the other end of the valve inlet is glued to the pump outlet. See the photos here:

Valve
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JRRLwEC816nJWoqk8

Pipes
https://photos.app.goo.gl/hkWWy6JJ5bSwUqai6

Is there a good way to replace the valve without replacing nearly all of the above-ground pipes and the pump?

My neighbor is a commercial plumber and he says I can carefully grind off a fitting and then glue a new fitting over it. He even did it on the inlet side of his own pump last year. I'm a bit skeptical, but if it lasts the rest of the summer, it would give me time to select new equipment and properly plan a complete replacement. But, I'm really hoping for an easier and cheaper solution.

 

[zea3]

You might give this method a try

How To Remove Glued PVC Pipe - YouTube

 

[Richard320]

If the fiolter itself can ve moved a few inches to the left...

Cut a few notches into the backwash valve itself to weaken it, then insert a screwdriver or something and twist to break the actual female threaded boss on the valve. That will leave you with that threaded adaptor piece to work off of. The other side looks like it can just be sawed through. Then screw a female threaded adaptor on the upper pipe and build what else you need to connect that to the new valve.

Have you given any though to a multiport valve? It would make it real easy to drain off a few inches to lower CH buildup.

 

[BrianR170]

If the fiolter itself can ve moved a few inches to the left...

The base of the opposite side of the filter is literally right on the edge of the cement pad, so that's probably a no.

Cut a few notches into the backwash valve itself to weaken it, then insert a screwdriver or something and twist to break the actual female threaded boss on the valve. That will leave you with that threaded adaptor piece to work off of.

If you are referring to the fitting with the octagon-shaped end, it's unfortunately a slip/slip reducer bushing to adapt for pipe diameter, not a threaded adapter.

My neighbor said one method is similar though, by carefully cutting slots to weaken the outer fitting, then carefully pry off the glued sections. It will require some sanding on the remaining fitting and extra glue when reassembling, but the liklelyhood of success is higher than using heat methods.

He says he also might be able to find a tool that can ream out old fitting from the inside, but he's not sure if his company has one that small.