Need pool test recommendations

[abradleydvm]

I was exactly where you are right now. Glad I went all in. You will not regret it.

Did you put in a chlorine salt water generator? How did you transition and did you wait till swim season is over prior to doing so ?

 

[abradleydvm]

Great question. I see where you are struggling. You are considering your FC of 3.5 to be "enough" as you mentioned. However, that is the problem. Your idea of enough is inaccurate. Enough chlorine is the proper amount per the FC/CYA Levels which for a CYA of 100 is a target range of 11-13 ppm with a minimum of 8 ppm. So you have much less than enough FC. I think you are basing enough on conventional pool knowledge which excludes the fact that CYA buffers FC. So the higher the CYA, the higher FC is needed to produce the same sanitation levels. A pool that is crystal clear and algae free can easily harbor harmful bacteria. Every swimmer introduces feces to the pool which sluffs off of their body, sweat, and sometimes of course, urine. Pets and wildlife do the same. Your FC at 3.5 (with a CYA of 100 or greater) is not providing adequate kill rates, meaning it's killing bacteria too slowly to be safe. You are also only one unlucky day away from a cloudy then green pool. Algae is not visible when it first forms. By the time you see cloudiness, it has already multiplied significantly. Then when it becomes green, well, you get the picture. Addressing the CC aspect. CC is formed when chlorine attacks contaminants and they haven't yet been oxidized into thin air, mostly by the sun. You currently don't have enough contaminants (algae, etc.) to cause CC to form and therefore register. So that's a good thing but it's only temporary if you keep that FC level with your high CYA. Driving without a seatbelt is perfectly safe until you have an accident.

You'll need to think about your strong desire and push to use your tablets. If it's a money thing, it was just a wrong decision to purchase them (which you didn't know at the time - so not anyone's fault) and it's behind you now. Probably close to 100% of those here have made such unknowing mistakes at one point or another. You are best storing them away and after you've got your pool into a stable operating condition, using them for vacations and such, when you can tolerate a little CYA increase and use the benefit of a slow release chlorine to offset not being able to add liquid chlorine. Though the easiest option by far is to install a salt water chlorine generator (SWG) to add FC every day for you.

Please continue to ask about issues you struggle with. We are here to help. Literally, that's the only reason we are here.

Questions :

1.) In the mean time before I get SWG .... how do I get chlorine levels up ? Do I use my 68% calhypo and quit the tabs for now . ( save them for vacation use )

2.) I assume it is safe to swim with such high levels of chlorine until my CYA is back to normal ?

3.) Should I wait till swim season is over before making complete transition ?

4.) Does the SWG change mean I will be transitioning to a salt water pool ?

5.) Should I do a partial drain/ refill on my pool after season is over in a couple of months to get CYA down ?

6.) When testing water samples , is it safe to rinse tubes in kitchen sink ? This might be a stupid question ?

 

[JoeSelf]

NO SWG. I get 5 gal LC from local pool store. You can find lids and spouts for the jugs. Ill post on monday where i got mine.

No tabs.

Safe to swim up to SLAM level for you CYA.

Jump I drained half my pool and never looked back.

yes salt pool.

Start taking CYA Down now. You'll thank me if you have to SLAM in Spring.

Yes, I do all testing outside and just dump outside. Rinse in pool water.

 

[bmoreswim]

Questions :

1.) In the mean time before I get SWG .... how do I get chlorine levels up ? Do I use my 68% calhypo and quit the tabs for now . ( save them for vacation use )

2.) I assume it is safe to swim with such high levels of chlorine until my CYA is back to normal ?

3.) Should I wait till swim season is over before making complete transition ?

4.) Does the SWG change mean I will be transitioning to a salt water pool ?

5.) Should I do a partial drain/ refill on my pool after season is over in a couple of months to get CYA down ?

6.) When testing water samples , is it safe to rinse tubes in kitchen sink ? This might be a stupid question ?

JoeSelf had good answers and I'll add mine.

1) Either Cal hypo or bleach/liquid chlorine. Cal hypo will add. .7 ppm CH for every 1 ppm FC. You can use some CH as you are at 200 and recommended is 250-350. Though you should also test your fill water to see what you are adding each time you add water. Your fill water may already be adding CH in which case you would only be advised to use liquid chlorine.
2) Yes, as mentioned, safe up to SLAM level for your CYA.
3) Your call. The sooner you switch the sooner you stop adding chlorine manually.
4) Yes. Every pool has salt though, so it's only a matter of degree. When you add any form of chlorine, you also add salt.
5) I would. The CYA isn't going anywhere fast. It very slowly degrades over time. You could wait until spring to see what it is then. Just be sure to not get an algae outbreak in the meantime.
6) Yes, its fine. The amount you are using is not an issue for a municipal sewer system or home septic system.

 

[abradleydvm]

NO SWG. I get 5 gal LC from local pool store. You can find lids and spouts for the jugs. Ill post on monday where i got mine.

No tabs.

Safe to swim up to SLAM level for you CYA.

Jump I drained half my pool and never looked back.

yes salt pool.

Start taking CYA Down now. You'll thank me if you have to SLAM in Spring.

Yes, I do all testing outside and just dump outside. Rinse in pool water.

Thank you so much

 

[abradleydvm]

Great question. I see where you are struggling. You are considering your FC of 3.5 to be "enough" as you mentioned. However, that is the problem. Your idea of enough is inaccurate. Enough chlorine is the proper amount per the FC/CYA Levels which for a CYA of 100 is a target range of 11-13 ppm with a minimum of 8 ppm. So you have much less than enough FC. I think you are basing enough on conventional pool knowledge which excludes the fact that CYA buffers FC. So the higher the CYA, the higher FC is needed to produce the same sanitation levels. A pool that is crystal clear and algae free can easily harbor harmful bacteria. Every swimmer introduces feces to the pool which sluffs off of their body, sweat, and sometimes of course, urine. Pets and wildlife do the same. Your FC at 3.5 (with a CYA of 100 or greater) is not providing adequate kill rates, meaning it's killing bacteria too slowly to be safe. You are also only one unlucky day away from a cloudy then green pool. Algae is not visible when it first forms. By the time you see cloudiness, it has already multiplied significantly. Then when it becomes green, well, you get the picture. Addressing the CC aspect. CC is formed when chlorine attacks contaminants and they haven't yet been oxidized into thin air, mostly by the sun. You currently don't have enough contaminants (algae, etc.) to cause CC to form and therefore register. So that's a good thing but it's only temporary if you keep that FC level with your high CYA. Driving without a seatbelt is perfectly safe until you have an accident.

You'll need to think about your strong desire and push to use your tablets. If it's a money thing, it was just a wrong decision to purchase them (which you didn't know at the time - so not anyone's fault) and it's behind you now. Probably close to 100% of those here have made such unknowing mistakes at one point or another. You are best storing them away and after you've got your pool into a stable operating condition, using them for vacations and such, when you can tolerate a little CYA increase and use the benefit of a slow release chlorine to offset not being able to add liquid chlorine. Though the easiest option by far is to install a salt water chlorine generator (SWG) to add FC every day for you.

Please continue to ask about issues you struggle with. We are here to help. Literally, that's the only reason we are here.

Thank you so much .... so helpful ! I am very grateful .

 

[abradleydvm]

NO SWG. I get 5 gal LC from local pool store. You can find lids and spouts for the jugs. Ill post on monday where i got mine.

No tabs.

Safe to swim up to SLAM level for you CYA.

Jump I drained half my pool and never looked back.

yes salt pool.

Start taking CYA Down now. You'll thank me if you have to SLAM in Spring.

Yes, I do all testing outside and just dump outside. Rinse in pool water.

I have checked at one of our three stores and they don’t even carry liquid chlorine .... I will start calling around and see .... for some reason granular and tabs are more popular in this area .... the pool store employee said it had to do with shelf life being short ?

 

[abradleydvm]

Yes. From whatever source you use to top off your pool from evaporation.

Now looked at your PoolMath logs. You didn't record your water temperature. Please do that. I assumed 90.

What is the pH and TA of your fill water? You have an autofill on your pool?

To balance your water and Calcium Saturation Index (CSI) - Trouble Free Pool you need to get your:

- pH around 7.6
- TA around 100
- CH at least 250

Read Lower Total Alkalinity - Trouble Free Pool

High water temperature raises the CSI. When your water cools down in the winter you then need to let the pH rise towards 7.8 to keep it from going below -0.3.

Fill water stats :

Cl-2
Ph-8.2
TA-90
CH-175

 

[JoeSelf]

Here is the link to lids and spigots. Lids & Spigots