Need new pump for Goldline Aqualogic PS8

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geepmaley

Well-known member
Aug 2, 2012
50
Plano, TX
have a Goldline Aqualogic ps8 controller and a single speed Jandy 2HP stealth pump for pool, Polaris 280 pump, small Jandy waterfall pump DE filter and gas heater. Pool/spa combo with internet ok actuators. Filter, Polaris pump and Heater replaced, everything else original from 2004 install. Need replacement pool pump as Stealth has uncontrollable leaking and not sure what’s available today that will work with the PS8. Main SW rev 2.66. Display SW Local-08 r3.00. Rf base SW r1.2

No clue which pump to be looking at

Thanks
 
You need software version 2.65 or higher to support a VS pump and it sounds like you have that with rev 2.66.

I would suggest the Hayward Tristar 950 or 900 pump.

Let's see what @1poolman1 suggests.
 
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Awesome. Thanks. As mentioned I am pre Prologic, Aqualogic running 2.66 so do not have removable connection blocks, so guess its remove wires manually. I just went out and see the Variable speed option on filter config. So thats cool. Guess it only works with Hayward pumps tho? No chance working with Jandy or Pentair?
 
Just pulled the panel off the Aqualogic and see four wires going to the terminal block 18 mentioned (red black yellow and green, 1/2/3/4). Pretty sure this is for the wired remote controller I have in the house to control things.

If I get a Hayward VS pump, can the VS connections piggy back on that terminal block (i.e more than one wire in each screw terminal)? or do I have to remove the remote controller? Buying a wireless remote is cost prohibitive and I may be better off doing the OmniGL upgrade where I have internet control

If I could just get a new single speed pump to replace the current Jandy....................................
 
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geepmaley said:
If I get a Hayward VS pump, can the VS connections piggy back on that terminal block (i.e more than one wire in each screw terminal)? or do I have to remove the remote controller? Buying a wireless remote is cost prohibitive and I may be better off doing the OmniGL upgrade where I have internet control
Click to expand...

You can put two wires under each screw without any problems.

geepmaley said:
If I could just get a new single speed pump to replace the current Jandy....................................
Click to expand...

The DOE has outlawed SS pumps over 1HP.

Pump DOE Regulations - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 

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Note that the controller is very limited for the early software.

I think that you only get 2 speeds and low speed has to be 50% or lower.

You can look through the settings to see what programming is available.

I don't think that the controller will communicate with any other brands of variable speed pump or motor.
 
Thanks. I was trying to make sure that when I push a button on the remote controller it doesn't affect the pump directly since they woudl be tied together. I.e its the same thing as tying the black and yellow wires from the controller to the black wire on the pump controller. Guess Im not sure what the protocols are for remote controller vs pump control.

And yes it looks like it is basically two speeds but you get to choose the speeds
 
You can put multiple wires on the same communication terminals.

I think that low speed has to be set to 50% (1,725 RPM) or lower.

This means that the pump should be the biggest available so that you have more flexibility.

I would get the TriStar 950.

If you get the smaller pump, the low speed might not be enough at 50%.
 
FWIW, I also have the AquaLogic PS8 and a MaxFlo VS pump which is one of the smallest VS pumps Hayward makes. Full speed is 67 GPM while I almost always use low speed at 45% (30 GPM) which is enough for the two skimmers. In solar mode, flow rate drops to 27 GPM but that is still good enough for two skimmers. In spa mode, I have low speed set for 30% and that is sufficient for the heater to run. Your results may vary depending on the plumbing setup.

Also, if you are interested, I wrote an app for the AquaLogic that runs on Windows and Android. It is described here:

AQL-PS-8 Remote Emulator App

A couple months ago, I started to have problems with my AquaLogic PS8 wireless remote. It frequently showed "The base receiver is not responding" which usually only lasted for a short period of time due to weak signal levels. But this time, it lasted for nearly a half day and eventually it...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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JamesW said:
You can put multiple wires on the same communication terminals.

I think that low speed has to be set to 50% (1,725 RPM) or lower.

This means that the pump should be the biggest available so that you have more flexibility.

I would get the TriStar 950.

If you get the smaller pump, the low speed might not be enough at 50%.
Click to expand...
So the black and yellow wire on the remote controller are the same as the comm links on the pump? If not I’d be basically tying the remote controller directly to the pump with the connection being the terminal block thet is also connected to ??? On the board
 
Black and yellow are for communications.

You wire it as shown on the previously posted picture.

You can have multiple devices on a single communication terminal.

Red 1 and Green 4 are for powering a remote device like a controller that does not have its own power supply.

Since the pump has its own power, it does not use/need the Red 1 or Green 4 terminal.
 
geepmaley said:
My pool guy found this pump but it looks to (maybe?) not have a comm port?

Sp3215x20xe
Click to expand...
No com port. That pump is really meant to be used on systems without controllers.

Also, from my own experience, I would recommend using shielded RS485 cable with one end of the shield tied to the com terminal. This will help minimize noise on the data lines and reduce the frequency of COM errors.

Although the com wire between the two ends is theoretically not required since it is a differential signal between ports A & B, the com connection can help to maintain a clean common voltage reference between the two RS485 drivers preventing other signalling issues so I would also include the com wire since it is already included in a RS485 cable anyway.
 
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