Need Help With Electrical Requirements

Thank you again for all the great information, I really appreciate it.

So it looks like I need a line from from my fuse box (which is behind the rear wall of the house...how do they do that?) to the pool pump in a trench and in conduit where it will be hard wired into the pump and have it's own breaker. This needs to be a GFCI circuit and should be 240 or 120? I would also like another pair of outlets (I believe these are called convenient outlets) for outside lights, etc. So that would mean two lines need to be run to the same spot, both with their own breaker.
 
A convenience outlet may even be required, depending on the circumstances. There are specs for how close the receptacles may be to the pool, and the distance spec for the pump outlet differs according to the type of plug that is installed on the pump cord.

But yeah, basically dig the trench, run conduit from the fuse box to the receptacle location, install the receptacle(s) with an approved mounting/support, pull the wire, install the breakers, connect the receptacles and breaker wiring, close everything up (including "in-use" weatherproof outlet covers), test it for shorts/grounds/correct wiring, and power it up. That's assuming that there is capacity in the breaker box too.

You really should get a couple of electricians to come and see the lay of the land, and let you know what the install will require (free estimates). In addition to "normal" electrical codes, NEC Article 680 deals specifically with electrical installations in and around pools and spas, and there can be some confusing circumstances. Get a couple of itemized estimates, and see what they say will be needed.
 
dmullen said:
I would also like another pair of outlets (I believe these are called convenient outlets) for outside lights, etc. So that would mean two lines need to be run to the same spot, both with their own breaker.

Not really. You only need one circuit for a couple of convenience outlets. You have multiple outlets in your kitchen on the same GFI plug. Same thing, really. On one 20 amp circuit, you can run 20+ 100 watt light bulbs.
 
Agree with Ohm_Boy, give the electrician enough info and they'll tell you what you can support on one circuit and/or how to achieve what you want.
The necessary info (wire gauge, min amp, etc) should be in the pump manual, once he has that he should be able to listen to your wishlist as a home owner and then tell you your options/costs. Brace yourself though, I don't what they charge in your area but where I live electricians don't work cheap, also, don't let them go crazy and start telling you that you need a bunch of extra things.

If your not sure of one persons estimate, get 2.
 
That's why I suggested a couple of itemized estimates. (more is better), the key being the term itemized. That will give you a list of the components they think you need. That helps make an apples-to-apples decision.
 
On a 2 speed pump, isn't low speed half the rpm and half the hp?
Perhaps you could ask if the pool company to swap you for a lower power pump. If they have them in house already and they do cost less, it seems they would be happy to swap.
 
Bama Rambler said:
A 2-speed pump is half the rpm but it's only about 1/6th the hp on low. It uses about 1/4th the power on low that it does on high.

As I said earlier I run mine on low 24-7 and love it. The electric used is minimal. Hard to even notice how much it costs a month to run. Plus it seems to really keep the pool clean and lower the amount of chemicals used to keep it clean and clear.
 
i have a friend who is a licensed electrician and installs pools all of the time. He gave me these guidelines they use when installing above ground pools.
 

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jimbo010 said:
i have a friend who is a licensed electrician and installs pools all of the time. He gave me these guidelines they use when installing above ground pools.

Thank you very much for this, it should help a lot when talking to electricians.

How can I find out if the bonding of the pool is required in Mississippi? Does everyone have to do this?
 
The rules vary from place to place. Bonding is almost always required, and is always a good idea, for permanent pools, and only occasionally required for temporary pools. The definition of what is permanent and what is temporary also varies.
 
I am starting to work with an electrician and in order to save money I am going to do as much of the "non-electrical" work myself...digging the trenches...buying the materials, etc. I thought it would a good idea to list the parts I am getting for the installation and even show some of the work for other newbies like me who are a nervous wreck when it comes to this stuff! Plus it is great to get the expertise of this forum when it comes to what needs to be purchased.

For starters... is this a good timer to get? http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-T1...Switch/dp/B000BQOX88/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
 
Yes, the T104 is the classic that has been around for years and "just works". What problems they do occasionally have are easy to fix. There are many variations, with additional features. The T104 is the base model that does the job for a very good price (at least if you shop around).
 
My guess is that is what is called a "water bond".

From NEC article 680.26
(C) Pool Water. Pool water shall have an electrical connection to one or more of the bonded parts described in 680.26(B). Where none of the bonded parts is in direct connection with the pool water, the pool water shall be in direct contact with an approved corrosion-resistant conductive surface that exposes not less than 5800 mm2 (9 in.2) of surface area to the pool water at all times. The conductive surface shall be located where it is not exposed to physical damage or dislodgement during usual pool activities, and it shall be bonded in accordance with 680.26(B).

It is 9 sqin (minimum) bonding connection to the pool water since many above ground pools have no great means of connecting to the water such as a metal pool ladder, etc.
 
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