Need help understanding new pool needs with well water

[maw63]

We just finished a new pool build w/Wet Edge Signature Matrix Indigo blue. Acid wash was done on Thursday & began filling just after noon. We live in rural Austin County Texas with well water. PB sent guy out on Friday for startup. I'm not sure the exact amounts of chemicals that were added but I know he added a gallon of liquid chlorine and put tabs in the dispenser. I believe he also added stabilizer but not positive. Also, our pump was set to run 24 hours but on Saturday morning, it was off and has done the same thing the last two nights. We don't know when it is shutting off and why. We simply must go out and turn it back on when we get up. We were not given many instructions but decided we should read and try to follow the Wet Edge startup however, it seems they recommend the Orenda method but that wasn't the process the PB followed. We are so confused about what our numbers need to be. I have plugged in our numbers on the TF app as well as the Orenda app but we are still confused. Can anyone help give us some direction? The PB has been no help and we are angry because his response was "why are you contacting me on the weekend"? " Put it in an email and I'll respond when the work week begins on Monday." Because we live almost an hour outside of Houston and the PB, we are seemingly left to our own devices. I am attaching numbers from 3 tests. The last was after we added muriatic acid.

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

What test kit are you using? Where did those test results come from?

Your numbers look fine. Keep your FC around 3 and pH in the high 7's. Your CH is a bit low and you can increase it to 250 at some point.

Which results confuse you?

 

[maw63]

Welcome to TFP.

What test kit are you using? Where did those test results come from?

Your numbers look fine. Keep your FC around 3 and pH in the high 7's. Your CH is a bit low and you can increase it to 250 at some point.

Which results confuse you?

The PB provided the Taylor K2005. The Wet Edge numbers to achieve vs. the PB numbers recommended are a little different so we want to make sure we choose wisely I suppose. We weren't given good instruction from the start. With such a large investment we just want to make sure we aren't damaging the finish.

Just received an email back from the PB to some of our concerns and questions and his answer was basically, we've done our part and you are now the pool owner. We have several places in the Wet Edge finish that aren't correct and need attention but he said we have to take it up with the plasterer, not him. I can't believe that this is the common attitude of a pool builder these days but maybe I'm just old enough that I thought customer service with still a high priority.

 

[ajw22]

The PB provided the Taylor K2005.

The Taylor K-2005 is a test kit that gets pushed by many larger “pool stores”. It tests pH, TA, CH, CYA VERY well, but it’s shortfall is how it tests chlorine levels. The K-2005 uses a “DPD” chlorine test which has three very large pitfalls:

1. The DPD chlorine test will NOT show accurate results above 5 ppm. This is an issue if you wish to follow TFP methods, as we teach that it’s best to maintain a ratio of chlorine to CYA, see the Chlorine/CYA Chart, not just a firm 1-4 ppm.

2. The DPD chlorine test uses “color-matching.” You add a few drops of reagent to the water and then match the pink sample color to the comparator. It’s easy to mismatch the true levels.

3. Perhaps worst of all, the DPD chlorine test's pink sample color can "bleach out." If the chlorine is well above the 5 ppm limit, the pink sample color after the reagent is added can fade out or even remain clear. This can lead one to believe the chlorine level is MUCH lower than reality, potentially leading to adding even more chlorine to the pool.

In short, the K-2005 is a good kit.........it’s just not very accurate in chlorine testing.

TFP Methods requiring FC of more than 5 ppm, such as the SLAM Process and higher CYA levels, cannot be tested with the DPD chlorine test in the K-2005. You need the FAS/DPD chlorine test found in the TF-100, Taylor K-2006 or K-2006C.

If you have the K-2005 you can separately buy the FAS/DPD Chlorine Test to make your kit equivalent to the K-2006.

Pool Test Kits - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

The Wet Edge numbers to achieve vs. the PB numbers recommended are a little different so we want to make sure we choose wisely I suppose.

Happy to answer specific questions about specific numbers that confuse you.

 

[maw63]

The Taylor K-2005 is a test kit that gets pushed by many larger “pool stores”. It tests pH, TA, CH, CYA VERY well, but it’s shortfall is how it tests chlorine levels. The K-2005 uses a “DPD” chlorine test which has three very large pitfalls:

1. The DPD chlorine test will NOT show accurate results above 5 ppm. This is an issue if you wish to follow TFP methods, as we teach that it’s best to maintain a ratio of chlorine to CYA, see the Chlorine/CYA Chart, not just a firm 1-4 ppm.

2. The DPD chlorine test uses “color-matching.” You add a few drops of reagent to the water and then match the pink sample color to the comparator. It’s easy to mismatch the true levels.

3. Perhaps worst of all, the DPD chlorine test's pink sample color can "bleach out." If the chlorine is well above the 5 ppm limit, the pink sample color after the reagent is added can fade out or even remain clear. This can lead one to believe the chlorine level is MUCH lower than reality, potentially leading to adding even more chlorine to the pool.

In short, the K-2005 is a good kit.........it’s just not very accurate in chlorine testing.

TFP Methods requiring FC of more than 5 ppm, such as the SLAM Process and higher CYA levels, cannot be tested with the DPD chlorine test in the K-2005. You need the FAS/DPD chlorine test found in the TF-100, Taylor K-2006 or K-2006C.

If you have the K-2005 you can separately buy the FAS/DPD Chlorine Test to make your kit equivalent to the K-2006.

Pool Test Kits - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Happy to answer specific questions about specific numbers that confuse you.

The PB says to keep ph @ 7.4 but Wet Edge says 7.6-7.8. How critical is this difference. I'm also attaching a photo of the worst interior flaw that is located squarely on the side of the bottom entry step.

Thank you for your willingness to help as this is the first new pool we've had.

 

[ajw22]

The PB says to keep ph @ 7.4 but Wet Edge says 7.6-7.8. How critical is this difference.

I would go with the Wet Edge 7.6-7.8.

I'm also attaching a photo of the worst interior flaw that is located squarely on the side of the bottom entry step.

. View attachment 397621

That roughness can be fixed with sanding with 80-100 grit wet/dry sandpaper.

If that is your worst complaint then your plaster job is pretty good.

 

[maw63]

I would go with the Wet Edge 7.6-7.8.



That roughness can be fixed with sanding with 80-100 grit wet/dry sandpaper.

If that is your worst complaint then your plaster job is pretty good.

Thank you for your reply! Relieves some of my anxiety lol.