Need help getting started - Where to go from here
- Thread starter Thurston
- Start date
DeanP66
0
Keep adding to get the FC back up to 16 and try and maintain that level as much as possible. Once your pool starts getting clearer, the FC will start holding longer and when everything is clear you can try the overnight free chlorine loss test (OCLT). The key is to maintain that FC at 16 as much as possible.
Couple of issues, one major:
1. Chlorine level has stayed high for several hours now (16-17) without adding chlorine. CC is around 0.5. Checked CYA just in case, but it's still around 35. Pool is still very green. I brushed the whole pool, still no change in FC.
2. I think I have a leak in the suction side. My pump basket keeps filling with air. If I open the pump lid, the basket fulls back up. I put grease on the lid gasket, shaving cream everywhere but couldn't find the leak.
Pump is now off, it's 9:30 at night and I won't have time tomorrow until after work to look at it again. I'm frustrated and hope all my work this far won't go to waste while the pool water sits in its green state...
Please help!
1. Chlorine level has stayed high for several hours now (16-17) without adding chlorine. CC is around 0.5. Checked CYA just in case, but it's still around 35. Pool is still very green. I brushed the whole pool, still no change in FC.
2. I think I have a leak in the suction side. My pump basket keeps filling with air. If I open the pump lid, the basket fulls back up. I put grease on the lid gasket, shaving cream everywhere but couldn't find the leak.
Pump is now off, it's 9:30 at night and I won't have time tomorrow until after work to look at it again. I'm frustrated and hope all my work this far won't go to waste while the pool water sits in its green state...
Please help!
Solved te pump issue. It turns out the skimmer socks were the problem. Too much junk clogging in the socks. Pulled them out until I'm done slamming and the pump is working great with no air in the basket.
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I think I'm nearing the end of the SLAM! Water is crystal clear/blue. Finishing the OCLT this morning so we'll see.
If the FC and CC tests show I am done, what next? Do I add cya to bring the level up?
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I think I'm nearing the end of the SLAM! Water is crystal clear/blue. Finishing the OCLT this morning so we'll see.
If the FC and CC tests show I am done, what next? Do I add cya to bring the level up?
If OCLT is less than 1, CC less than 0.5 and pool is clear, you can let your FC drift down. Just don't ever let it get below the minimum for you CYA. Always best to try and keep it in your target FC level and test daily to make any necessary additions.
Once your FC is below 10, you should test PH and adjust as needed. You can post full set of results at this time, and we can help you see if anything else needs adjusting
Once your FC is below 10, you should test PH and adjust as needed. You can post full set of results at this time, and we can help you see if anything else needs adjusting
Passed the OCLT 2 nights ago. FC was at 10.5 and stayed close to that overnight.
Here are my numbers this morning, water is clear.
FC 5.5
CC 0.5
TA 80
PH 7.4
CYA 35
CH 90
SALT 2900
Here are my numbers this morning, water is clear.
FC 5.5
CC 0.5
TA 80
PH 7.4
CYA 35
CH 90
SALT 2900
I'm thinking I need to add 168 oz CYA to bring the level up to 70. But using the pool math calculator it looks like this will also lower my PH to 6.75.
What's next? Very excited to be so close. Very lucky to have found this forum!
What's next? Very excited to be so close. Very lucky to have found this forum!
- May 3, 2014
- 58,475
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I suggest adding half the CYA powder called for and retest 24 hours after it is dissolved. Be sure to keep you FC up based on the new CYA. Some aeration during the process should help keep the pH up as your TA is high enough to allow you to do that.
Good Job on the SLAM!
Take care.
Good Job on the SLAM!
Take care.
Will do, any tips for how to aerate?
Should I start up the SWG?
And the real question... can I swim now?
Should I start up the SWG?
And the real question... can I swim now?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,475
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Editing my post, to add that you can ignore, I had only read page one of the thread, obviously I am way behind.
I am the newbie on the board, been doing this for 5 months, and sometimes my advice helps those who are totally new. Here goes....
The other good reason is it OK and wise to "round up" your CYA to 40, is that you will find it can take several days after adding stabilizer for the CYA reading to become totally accurate. It will continue to rise until all the granules are dissolved.
Now, regarding bleach, you will likely need quite a bite, so get a good deal on it. There are a few things to consider. First is the concentration of Sodium Hypochlorite. What you are really adding to your pool to achieve shock is the Sodium Hypochlorite. I have seen everything from 8% to 12.5%. If you use 12.5%, you are effectively adding 50% more FC to your pool water than if you use 8%. The pool calculator has an entry for concentrate, to help make the correct calculations. Walmart near my house has 10% for $2.88 a gallon. Menards near me, has 12.5% for $2.99 but it is a further drive. I did stock up when Menard's had theirs by one get one for a smoking $1.50 per gallon of 12.5%.
Good luck, you will be amazed at what happens to your pool!
I am the newbie on the board, been doing this for 5 months, and sometimes my advice helps those who are totally new. Here goes....
The other good reason is it OK and wise to "round up" your CYA to 40, is that you will find it can take several days after adding stabilizer for the CYA reading to become totally accurate. It will continue to rise until all the granules are dissolved.
Now, regarding bleach, you will likely need quite a bite, so get a good deal on it. There are a few things to consider. First is the concentration of Sodium Hypochlorite. What you are really adding to your pool to achieve shock is the Sodium Hypochlorite. I have seen everything from 8% to 12.5%. If you use 12.5%, you are effectively adding 50% more FC to your pool water than if you use 8%. The pool calculator has an entry for concentrate, to help make the correct calculations. Walmart near my house has 10% for $2.88 a gallon. Menards near me, has 12.5% for $2.99 but it is a further drive. I did stock up when Menard's had theirs by one get one for a smoking $1.50 per gallon of 12.5%.
Good luck, you will be amazed at what happens to your pool!
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I added enough cya to get me to around 50ppm, have been swimming and maintaining FC level while I wait for cya test chemicals to arrive since I just ran out.
Water is beautiful, clear. I've been running SWG almost 24 hours a day.
Tonight I tested and found FC is 2.0, CC is also 2.0.
I added shock/bleach to bring me up to 5.5. Should I be worried about CC level at 2? I did find 2 mice in the strainers earlier today, and also brushed and vacuumed. Not sure if that matters.
Water is beautiful, clear. I've been running SWG almost 24 hours a day.
Tonight I tested and found FC is 2.0, CC is also 2.0.
I added shock/bleach to bring me up to 5.5. Should I be worried about CC level at 2? I did find 2 mice in the strainers earlier today, and also brushed and vacuumed. Not sure if that matters.