Need clarity on shocking

[Pauly B]

This is my first year doing my own pool care. I’m getting a good handle on it but have a question about after shocking.

I’ve previously shocked with minimal CC. .2 or so. So for my pool 1# of cal-hypo raised my chlorine 3ppm which at that level would be OK to swim in.

Yesterday had my first day with 1CC. I shocked to 10ppm. Product says use pool when chlorine returns to 3PPM.

Question is, after 12 hours is that supposed to happen on its own or do I neutralize chlorine as needed?

Thanks

 

[Mr Bruce]

How are you measuring FC/CC with a Taylor K2005? What is your CYA?

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Pauly, all your FC levels are based on what your CYA is. If your pool is algae free, and say your CYA is 30ppm, you'd probably want your FC to be 5ppm.
BUT... if you have algae, your pool needs to be SLAM'd. THat means you take it up to 12ppm, if your CYA is 30ppm, and *keep it there * until the alage is dead, gone and the pool entirely clean again. And your testing shows CC of 0.5 or less, and you do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test.

What's your exact situation?? Have you read Pool School yet?

Maddie

 

[jblizzle]

What test kit are you using?
Please review the FC/CYA Levels as they determines acceptable chlorine levels. There is no need to "shock" your pool on a regular basis. Just maintain adequate FC.

 

[Pauly B]

How are you measuring FC/CC with a Taylor K2005? What is your CYA?

Taylor 2005, yes. CC was right at 1 yesterday. CYA is most likely between 40 and 50. Definitely see dot easily at 50 and takes a second to see it at 40.

 

[mknauss]

Taylor 2005, yes.

Order FAS/DPD Chlorine & CC's test
If you have a CC of 1 there is a good chance you need to follow the SLAM Process

 

[Pauly B]

Pauly, all your FC levels are based on what your CYA is. If your pool is algae free, and say your CYA is 30ppm, you'd probably want your FC to be 5ppm.
BUT... if you have algae, your pool needs to be SLAM'd. THat means you take it up to 12ppm, if your CYA is 30ppm, and *keep it there * until the alage is dead, gone and the pool entirely clean again. And your testing shows CC of 0.5 or less, and you do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test.

What's your exact situation?? Have you read Pool School yet?

Maddie

Pool is algae free for sure. I’ve been using tabs previously but am going for liquid chlorine now since CYA is at 50.

Using CV-700 for enzymes and some phosphate reducer. Pool RX in pump basket. Small doses of PolyQuat60 for algae. Water is crystal clear. Only been using shock and swim and Cal-Hypo as needed which hasn't been often.

Had 10 people in the pool last week and some storms so FC has been getting used.

Main question of this thread has been do you just let chlorine at 10 settle on its own or use neutralizer to get to desired level?

Thanks

 

[mknauss]

Using CV-700 for enzymes and some phosphate reducer. Pool RX in pump basket. Small doses of PolyQuat60 for algae.

None of those are needed or recommended. The Pool Rx is adding copper that will stain your pool and turn blonde hair green. The PolyQuat is being consumed by the chlorine so it is just increasing your FC demand.

 

[mknauss]

FC drops by 2-4 ppm per day. A FC of 10 ppm is not high.

 

[jblizzle]

The sun will burn the FC off. No need to actively reduce it. And it is not very high. Safe to swim up to the SLAM/Shock level in the FC/CYA Levels

" Using CV-700 for enzymes and some phosphate reducer. Pool RX in pump basket. Small doses of PolyQuat60 for algae. Water is crystal clear. Only been using shock and swim and Cal-Hypo as needed which hasn't been often."

I can't tell if this was written to intentionally give us all a panic attack or what
TFP is against basically ALL of that.
Enzymes for what?
No need to worry about phosphates. Just keep enough FC in the water
Pool RX? Isn't that a copper additive .. bad bad bad
Algeacides? again no reason if you maintain the correct FC levels
And cal-hypo ... in TX? Don't you already have hard water

I think the only trigger you missed was CYA reducer

Glad it seems to all be working for you, but there is a much simpler and cheaper method ....

 

[Pauly B]

The sun will burn the FC off. No need to actively reduce it. And it is not very high. Safe to swim up to the SLAM/Shock level in the FC/CYA Levels

" Using CV-700 for enzymes and some phosphate reducer. Pool RX in pump basket. Small doses of PolyQuat60 for algae. Water is crystal clear. Only been using shock and swim and Cal-Hypo as needed which hasn't been often."

I can't tell if this was written to intentionally give us all a panic attack or what Not trolling. Ha! Just expanding my knowledge base and getting input from trustworthy places
TFP is against basically ALL of that. I’m aware.
Enzymes for what?
No need to worry about phosphates. Just keep enough FC in the water
Pool RX? Isn't that a copper additive .. bad bad bad. Manufacturer stands by fact that is is chelated and won’t come out of solution
Algeacides? again no reason if you maintain the correct FC levels. Going with the opinion that this allows chlorine to focus on sanitizing
And cal-hypo ... in TX? Don't you already have hard water. Fill water is 150ppm and only use it sparingly. CH is currently 325

I think the only trigger you missed was CYA reducer Give me some time. I’ll get one.

Glad it seems to all be working for you, but there is a much simpler and cheaper method .... definitely heading that way by ditching my tabs for reasons learned here

I do appreciate all the advice. One thing that I have noticed is that there is a TON of conflicting information out there from all kinds of sources. One pool store shows recommended range of CYA 30-200!?!!???? Still can’t figure that one out. But then again the same store led me to understand Carbonate Alkalinity better.

I did a lot of research and went with what seemed to be most logical and reasonable to me. Taylor’s test kit booklet was a huge part of that.

One thing I’ve strived for is just safe balanced water. What I’ve learned is that it is a puzzle and each piece can vary as long as the whole ends up being right.

Thanks again y’all

 

[jblizzle]

Well, just keep in mind that many of the sources you are learning from are actively trying to sell you something. TFP is just here to teach a cheaper DIY method of pool maintenance based on actual chemistry, not false hope and/or profit

 

[YippeeSkippy]

It sounds like you're swimming in a chemical soup rather than "safe balanced water". And expensive soup at that!

Look, if it works for you, fine. But just about everything you added was unnecessary and may actually cause you more problems down the road.

We're into simple, scientific and sane. Chlorine kills cooties. Keep the right ratio of chlorine to your CYA in the water and you've got a clean, safe pool.

Maddie

 

[Pauly B]

Well, just keep in mind that many of the sources you are learning from are actively trying to sell you something.

Indeed. Didn't take long to learn that.

Chlorine kills cooties. Keep the right ratio of chlorine to your CYA in the water and you've got a clean, safe pool.

Maddie

I will certainly re think what I'm doing and go through the Forum for some more info.

Just a quick question. Why do so many sources say 1-3 ppm is the "normal" level for residential pools?

I'm thinking the levels advocated here vary directly with CYA to give enough chlorine level to kill anything in the pool?

Thanks again

 

[IceShadow]

The pool store just repeats the standards from decades ago, which completely ignore the effects of CYA. In the US, commercial pools are limited as to how much CYA they can use, and the low FC levels the pool store pushes match that.

If you're scientifically minded, check out Pool Water Chemistry

 

[LFrankow]

"

I'm thinking the levels advocated here vary directly with CYA to give enough chlorine level to kill anything in the pool?"

Pretty much.
The Chlorine has to bind to something or it will be gone very soon, TFP uses CYA as that binding agent. Effective level of FC is from .1-1 ppm, but when more is needed it is released from it's bondage to CYA at a very fast rate, I think .01 seconds or faster. If you follow the Chlorine/Cya Chart you cannot go wrong, I know I haven't in over 7 years now. You will notice on the chart the recommended level of FC is about 2 points higher then the lowest limit, I along with a lot of other people here add 2 ppm to the recommended level, just in case. You can swim with FC levels = SLAM levels safely.
I used to use algaecide, floc, and a bunch of other schtuff before I found TFP.
Now all I need is:
Decent test kit, TF-100 or Taylor 2006​

CYA
A source of FC, Bleach or a SWG
Muratic Acid/Borax to control PH drift
Water to refill from evaporation

 

[Jnet]

What they said! I'm on my third season. I was a brand new, clueless pool owner, but I found this sight before I opened the first time. In three years, I've added nothing but chlorine, muriatic acid, a little calcium, and salt when I switched to SWG. I open early and close late. I've never set foot in a pool store. I've only had to SLAM once. I hear all these stories about people who don't use a good test kit or pools mysteriously turning green multiple times in a season. It's a foreign concept to me.

Come to think of it, I need to up my membership level!

 

[Pauly B]

So I came home from a few days away and found I had 0 chlorine and my first sight at cloudy water. I brought FC way up and all is fine. Crystal clear and no algae.

I do enjoy the ease of using liquid chlorine. CYA is at 50 and just pour in what I need. Been using the Pool Math app and was always wondering why the target FC levels were 4-8 when everyone else says 1-3. Now it makes sense and knowing that those levels are not unsafe I'll just let the chlorine do its thing.

 

[Glofton]

Have you done an overnight chlorine loss test? Just because you don't SEE any algae doesn't mean you don’t have something in there eating up your chlorine. I would try the overnight test outlined in the SLAM process to see if you actually have algae or not.