Greetings, James, and welcome to TFP.
My pool is an in-ground and I'm not super familiar with above-ground rehab, but I did want to share a bit about heavy forest debris and maintaining clear water.
Provided that your circulation is good and your filter effective, my experience as been that the forest debris you describe is fairly easily managed with a few tweaks. (I get all the stuff you get...my in-ground is at the bottom of a terrace surrounded by mature trees
)
1. Adding a Pool Skim to a return helps get te debris right when it falls...creates a slight Venturi effect.
https://www.amazon.com/PoolSkim-Pool-Skimmer-Cleaner/dp/B002WKOEGM
2. By using the TFP recommended test kit daily for FC and ph (
TFTestkits.net ) and maintaining FC about 1 ppm ABOVE the higher-end levels in the [fc/cya][/FC/cya] I believe I ensure that good sanitization remains no atter how many keys/caterpillars/worms/mice etc. find their way to the pool. Since taking over my formerly foreclosed black water swamp in 2011, I've never had algae or water clarity issues...TFP works! The founding science-based tenet of TFP is to maintain CYA and you FC in a specific ratio to prevent algae and maintain sanitation...using as little of anything else and virtually no "pool store elixirs" that have unintended consequences and additives that complicate things. Liquid bleach or chlorine (same thing, just different percentages, but only unscented, unadulterated bleach) is preferred for simplicity...tabs increase cya in a way that makes maintenance of the ratio difficult.
3. I run a sand filter. Given the debris, I typically will run it 24/7. It doesn't really seem to add that much to the electric bill, considering how comparatively clean it keeps the water, provided I have the eyeballs adjusted to create a circular path for material to get to the skimmer befor sinking. Use a ping pong ball to observe flow when adjusting the eyelets in spring on opening.
Now, with that said, in mid summer I can easily shu the filter down overnight etc. (spring and fall, not so much) AND there is truly normally NO need to turn your volume of water that frequently. Most systems are designed for an 8-hour overturn each day. But in my personal cost/benefit model, I prefer the cleaner pool to the energy savings
So, I'm optimistic now that you've found TFP, you can keep the water clear.
However, I offer the following for consideration as well:
1. I do agree/believe a sand filter would be much easier on you in terms of labor/ease given your environment. It will not filter as fine as DE or cartridge, but my robot "polishes" water to an even smaller micron, and people marvel at my water clarity.
2. I switched to SWG last year and love it. With that said, I personally might be reluctant to expose an old aluminum ABG frame to salt. Even with proper bonding, it can be slightly corrosive. Sacrificial anodes to offset corrosion are controversial and generally not viewed to be very effective overall for reasons above my pay grade
But your mileage may vary, so take this caution with a grain of...salt
3. The tree root, and its source of origin, will have to be dealt with one way or another. An arborist consultation might be worthwhile here, so that you have an nderstanding of possible impact and options.
I would get that sorted before deciding on replacing the pool structure. If the structure is in otherwise good shape and you're not worried about switching to salt (eg. Salt is problematic for steel wall pools once there's a pinhole leak...when everything's perfect and the substrate is not exposed to the saltwater...it is not) then it might just make sense to do the liner and filter.
But I believe those Ester Williams pools are pretty substantial projects in terms of assembly/disassembly, so if you have to disassemble it to address the roots, then it is a reasonable time to upgrade, because you already gave the sunk labr, so to speak
Hope that helps you find your way to a trouble free summer