My FPH is installed and working!

The trick when you start calling around is to avoid saying the word "pool" for as long as possible. If you open the conversation by saying you need someone to hook up a pool heater, they'll hang up on you right away. My script went something like: I need someone with basic HVAC skills to do a one-day job involving my central A/C. It's a good job for someone who likes fun & unusual projects. The work is to connect a heat exchanger to my condenser unit, and I already have all of the parts and materials. The heat exchanger takes heat from the A/C and transfers it into the pool water. It's not a pool heater and all of the water connections are already done. I just need someone to do the A/C work.

(Someone else on the forums suggested going to local independent plumbers rather than big companies because you're more likely to get a response. In my experience, that's true, but those people are also much more likely to flake on you because they're too busy with other jobs.)
 
I’ve found two HVAC professions who have done the work for me in Atlanta. I actually found them on Facebook market. One was owner of a one man business. He other was a moonlighter fur a larger company. Large HVAC companies will not touch it. Search for individuals with HVAC install experience. This is not hard. I have watched what they do ….. tell them you have a system install to get them to the house.

Maybe I’ll start offering consulting services to zoom in and speak with the techs when they arrive. Hmmmmmm
 
I gave up because I couldn't get anyone to do the install. Yesterday I had an aquacal sq145 installed. It's OK but it seems wrong to pay for an AC unit to heat the pool and spew cold air into my back yard, while right next to it is another ac unit to cool my house, spewing hot air into my back yard.
 
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I've purchased the pool heater and found all the not included components except the pool contactor. I'm curious what pool contactor to buy. I've been searching for all over and tech support at HotSpot said a Normally Open 24VAC primary with 120v 20 amp secondary. Do you have a picture or remember which contactor you used? Also how do you go about wiring this contactor in parallel to the pump timer?
 
I've purchased the pool heater and found all the not included components except the pool contactor. I'm curious what pool contactor to buy. I've been searching for all over and tech support at HotSpot said a Normally Open 24VAC primary with 120v 20 amp secondary. Do you have a picture or remember which contactor you used? Also how do you go about wiring this contactor in parallel to the pump timer?

This depends a lot on your setup. It helps to understand the startup sequence and the purpose of the contactor.

The FPH controller is powered by the AC unit, so the controller always comes on when the AC comes on. The first thing it does is check the temperature of the pool water to see if the pool needs heat. If so, then it redirects the flow of hot gas into the heat exchanger to heat the pool. If not then it does nothing, leaving your AC running normally.

But what if you have your pool pump on a timer, and there's no flow through the FPH plumbing when the AC comes on, because the pump happens to be off at the time? Then the FPH will get a false temperature reading. Or worse, it will try and heat the stagnant water. The FPH needs the pool pump to be running in order to do its job.

So the contactor circuit is meant to give the FPH the ability to turn the pump on whenever it wants. There are a lot of possible ways to make this work, but here are the two most common:

1. You have a single-speed pump with no automation. It's on a timer and turns on/off at certain times of day. You can use a contactor in parallel with your timer to deliver power to the pump whether the timer is on or off.

2. You have a variable-speed pump or an automation system that can use inputs as triggers. Supported options might include continuity inputs (switches) or resistance inputs (temperature sensors). In this case you don't want a high-voltage contactor; you want a relay to give a signal to your pump or controller so that it turns itself on.

In my case, the FPH needed a higher pump speed than I would usually use, so I used a relay-controlled resistor connected to an input meant for a solar temperature sensor. My automation system would put the pump on high when it got the right reading on this input. There are more details in the first post in this thread.

After the FPH does its initial check, it will keep heating the pool as long as the AC is running and the water is below temperature. Optionally, if the AC is running for a long time but the water was already warm enough, you can also set the FPH to recheck the water periodically in case the temperature has gone down. For all of these reasons, you need a contactor or relay that is rated for long cycles. Many inexpensive relays are only meant to be used for short periods of time and will burn out if you leave them activated for too long.

If you still have questions, please share some more details about your pump (single/variable speed, what HP) and how it's currently controlled...
 
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This depends a lot on your setup. It helps to understand the startup sequence and the purpose of the contactor.

The FPH controller is powered by the AC unit, so the controller always comes on when the AC comes on. The first thing it does is check the temperature of the pool water to see if the pool needs heat. If so, then it redirects the flow of hot gas into the heat exchanger to heat the pool. If not then it does nothing, leaving your AC running normally.

But what if you have your pool pump on a timer, and there's no flow through the FPH plumbing when the AC comes on, because the pump happens to be off at the time? Then the FPH will get a false temperature reading. Or worse, it will try and heat the stagnant water. The FPH needs the pool pump to be running in order to do its job.

So the contactor circuit is meant to give the FPH the ability to turn the pump on whenever it wants. There are a lot of possible ways to make this work, but here are the two most common:

1. You have a single-speed pump with no automation. It's on a timer and turns on/off at certain times of day. You can use a contactor in parallel with your timer to deliver power to the pump whether the timer is on or off.

2. You have a variable-speed pump or an automation system that can use inputs as triggers. Supported options might include continuity inputs (switches) or resistance inputs (temperature sensors). In this case you don't want a high-voltage contactor; you want a relay to give a signal to your pump or controller so that it turns itself on.

In my case, the FPH needed a higher pump speed than I would usually use, so I used a relay-controlled resistor connected to an input meant for a solar temperature sensor. My automation system would put the pump on high when it got the right reading on this input. There are more details in the first post in this thread.

After the FPH does its initial check, it will keep heating the pool as long as the AC is running and the water is below temperature. Optionally, if the AC is running for a long time but the water was already warm enough, you can also set the FPH to recheck the water periodically in case the temperature has gone down. For all of these reasons, you need a contactor or relay that is rated for long cycles. Many inexpensive relays are only meant to be used for short periods of time and will burn out if you leave them activated for too long.

If you still have questions, please share some more details about your pump (single/variable speed, what HP) and how it's currently controlled...
Thanks for this great info! For reference I have a 1 HP single speed Hayward pump pulling 15 amps at 120 volts, with an Intermatic mechanical timer, and Jandy Salt Cell. My pool equipment is about 8 feet from my AC Condenser.

I'm about a week out from the HVACR tech and have the check valves, solenoid, service port, fan relay, and pool pump relay ordered. I've got my plan in place for the water side of the equation which I'm chipping away at the next few days.

Ideally, I'll have the control circuitry all landed before the tech comes. I'll need to come up with a way to test it ahead of time if possible.

As for the pool pump relay, I'm in line with the first option where I need to wire it in parallel to my timer. A picture of the relay I purchased is below. I was told by tech support at hotspot to use a 24vac primary with 120V 20A secondary N/O. This one seems to fit the spec. So what I need to sort out is how to wire it in parallel vs series. I have an Intermatic Mechanical timer which energizes the pump motor and a salt cell. I also need to decide on mounting location for this relay as the timer box is already crowded.

1661355874691.png
 
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What model timer do you have, is it a T-101? If so then you want to use this pattern, copied from here:

1661370259491.png

Except instead of a switch, you're going to use your contactor there. The yellow and orange wires on the contactor are the NO on the load side, so connect the orange to terminal #1 and the yellow to terminal #2. You're not using the blue wire but make sure it's tightly capped with a wire nut and secured with black electrical tape. (If the timer is on but the FPH is off, the blue wire will get 120V so don't just leave it loose.)

Now connect your 24VAC input from the FPH to the white/blue and white/yellow wires and that should do it! See my wiring diagram from post #2 of this thread for where to connect those.

The only other thing you might want to ask Hotspot about is the wire gauge. It says in the manual that you can use 18ga thermostat wire but they told me on the phone that 16ga is recommended over a certain distance to prevent voltage drop. 83mA is pretty typical for a relay and it sounds like you have a short distance, but it couldn't hurt to confirm.
 
Riny,

Thanks again for all this information, and sorting this out! I opted for a different pool contact after seeing that relay in person, the wire sizes didn't seem correct to carry the pump. I landed on a N/O single pole contact for the pump and I can see how simple this wiring is going to be because of the pic you shared. I also picked up a common fan relay to cut out the fan while in heat recovery mode. I'll put pics below. Another piece of the puzzle is where does the water temp probe tie into the HotSpot controller? The "schematics" provided in the literature don't tell you which terminals to apply the leads to. Your schematic is very helpful btw. Also did you buy your flow switch from Hotspot or use something off the shelf? After reading your input regarding them I think I'll add it to the circuit.

Pool Contact 1661433554981.png Fan Relay 1661433807063.png
 
I think the temperature probe connects to the two rightmost terminals on the terminal block. You'll probably need to calibrate it too (mine was off by several degrees). There's some info in the manual on how to extend the leads if you need to.

Personally I think the flow switch needs to be mandatory and it's unsafe to operate without one. The guy who bought my house just called me a few weeks ago because the FPH wasn't kicking in... turns out the filter was dirty and the pressure had fallen below the cutoff, which is exactly what's supposed to happen. Here's the switch I bought:

 
Again thanks so much! I got the same switch with the cover. The temp probe actually came terminated, I'm thinking to buy some heat shrink to protect it and dress it up. so far I've mounted the transformer, fan relay, and pool contactor. I managed to get these all inside the AC condenser cabinet. Next I'll begin landing wires. My plan is to get them all in place with the exception of the 220v side of the transformer until the AC brazing is complete. I gather in theory I'd be able to test the circuit by making that connection temporarily and seeing if my fan cuts out pool pump starts, and controller lights up. I doubt I'd be able to hear the solenoid coils engage with the compressor running. Again, in theory should also test my new HP cutout. Fingers crossed!
 

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Wow, this thread is not that old! I specifically joined this forum to ask FPH owners questions and was met with hostile/degrading questioning from a moderator on my first post. He wouldn't let my post go through until after other mods had told him it was OK. Another much more respectful and helpful mod gave me pointers on how to contact you folks directly as it had been so long since anyone had posted about these.

How is everyone's setup working?

I think I am about to install one myself. We moved in 3yrs ago and the Pool heater that was already installed wasn't very effective and expensive to run. After the hurricane came through now it doesn't work at all. We can't afford to run a pool heater. But taking the heat out of my house, and instead of throwing it into the air, putting it into my pool seems just seems like a no-brainer. As I told my wife we just can't afford to run a pool heater. But this, it's not perfect, but it will help. Also, I just installed an energy monitoring system so I hope to add real numbers to the conversation.

Any new tips and tricks?

Thank you,
Richard
 
Mine also is running great. It's still hitting into the 80's pretty regularly here in NE Florida and my FPH STILL has my pool at ~83 degrees despite overnight temps into the 40's for air temperature. The water temp now means it's still super comfortable to use as a cooling swim after I and the wife spend an hour in the hot tub!
I've not had to replace any parts on the FPH. My 2 yr old AC had a fan failure but it didn't matter because the FPH kept the cooling coil cool while it took a week for a replacement fan to arrive under warranty!
 
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