*My first test w/ Taylor K-2006C*

[cloeymi12]

First time pool owner. First test using the Taylor K-2006c test kit. My pool is cloudy in deep in. I can see drains but it’s not as sparkling clear as it was. Pool size 20x44 rectangle, 33,000 salt chlorinator. I have a pentair 1 1/2 hp variable speed. 2 skimmers and three returns: I run the pump 24/7 2hrs 2200 RPMs, 10hrs 1300 and 12hrs 175 RPMs (at night).

PH is 7.8 - it took 1 drop to get to ideal 7.6
CYA - this is my problem and question. I tested as directed with the small bootle filling to 7ml then add drops to 14ml. I mixed, waited 30 seconds then pour in tub with my back to the sun using my shadow from my body looking straight in the tube. I continue to see the black dot all the way pouring to the top. Its faded I think but I can still see the dot. I retest using the same sample pouring back in the bottle waiting 30 seconds. Same results.

How can that be that I have no CYA when opened in just a little over a month ago (May 15th) I added to bottled of liquid stabilizer.

Went back to the pool store to retest. Stabilizer was good.

Is this normal for stabilizer to disaster? I was told once it’s in it in. How much should I add?

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Welcome to TFP!

Good job on getting a TFP recommended test kit.

How can that be that I have no CYA when opened in just a little over a month ago (May 15th) I added to bottled of liquid stabilizer.

If you added two gallons of liquid stabilizer in you pool, it would have increased CYA by just over 20 ppm. That amount won't register on the CYA test. Do you suspect the level should be higher?

If the pool is cloudy, chances are you have algae. The best way to find it is to complete an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. If you fail the OCLT, you'll need to complete the SLAM Process.

For now, assume your CYA is 20 ppm and add enough stabilizer to increase CYA level to 30 ppm. Maintain FC levels according to the FC/CYA Levels. Use Pool Math to estimate the amount of chemicals needed.

Let us know how we can help.

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[proavia]

Additionally - enter the results in PoolMath as you are already sharing the logs here (click on your name to see them) -- and fill out your signature with pool, pool equipment (including manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit info. This assists us in helping you without needing to ask about your pool each time.

 

[cloeymi12]

Ok so this evening I perform a FC, do nothing just write down result. Tomorrow morning retest FC. If my FC drops more than 1.0 then I have algae?
Do I add the stabilizer first then add liquid chlorine to bring up the FC?

I’m confused on how to read the CYA/FC chart? There is a tab for liquid chlorine and salt chlorinator? Which one do I select? So is it I want my CYA to be 30 and my FC to be 2?

Then do I work on PH? Or PH first?

Any specific brand or kind of Stabilizer to use?

Thanks

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

I recommend bringing your CYA level up to 30 first. If you don't have a salt water chlorine generator, use the liquid chlorine recommendations on the chart. Dose enough to reach Target level daily. Don't allow FC to drop below minimum. After you get a CYA reading of 30, do the overnight chlorine loss test. If you lose more than 1ppm overnight, it is a strong indication of algae. You would need to complete the SLAM process.

 

[cloeymi12]

I recommend bringing your CYA level up to 30 first. If you don't have a salt water chlorine generator, use the liquid chlorine recommendations on the chart. Dose enough to reach Target level daily. Don't allow FC to drop below minimum. After you get a CYA reading of 30, do the overnight chlorine loss test. If you lose more than 1ppm overnight, it is a strong indication of algae. You would need to complete the SLAM process.

I recommend bringing your CYA level up to 30 first. If you don't have a salt water chlorine generator, use the liquid chlorine recommendations on the chart. Dose enough to reach Target level daily. Don't allow FC to drop below minimum. After you get a CYA reading of 30, do the overnight chlorine loss test. If you lose more than 1ppm overnight, it is a strong indication of algae. You would need to complete the SLAM process.

Thank you! I appreciate your quick response.
Once I get the CYA level up to 30 do I shut off the salt chlorinator during the FC overnight test? Or do I shut it off once I start adding the liquid chlorine or keep it running? During the process of adding the liquid chlorine do I retest the CYA or wait until I reach the FC target then retest CYA?
Any recommendations on the best price point to buy stabilizer and liquid chlorine?

Thanks again for all the information!
LaVonna

 

[Mdragger88]

The salt water chlorine generator should be OFF for the duration of the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
Your last test of the night should be AFTER your last dose of chlorine & AFTER you have turned off the swg. The pool pump can remain running. Then be sure to test in the am BEFORE the sun shines on the pool.
Add the cya, assume it is there & chlorinate accordingly. Test again in a day & adjust fc target if necessary.
Use the liquid chlorine part of the FC/CYA Levels for now until things get sorted out. There’s no fc recommendation on the swg part of the chart for a cya below 60 (because cya lower than that is not recommended w/ a swg) - I assume this is causing your confusion with the chart.
If u fail the oclt then you have algae & proceed to the SLAM Process
The SLAM values for the corresponding cya amounts are the same on each chart whether u have a swg or not.
Walmart carries pool essentials 10% liquid chlorine as well as dry stabilizer (cya) as do lowes, Home Depot, ace hardware etc. some pool stores may have refillable containers of liquid chlorine for a cheaper cost.
Dry stabilizer should be added to a sock , knee high, or skimmer sock then tie a knot in the sock & hang it in front of a return not touching the pool wall. Squeeze the sock every so often to help it dissolve. This ensures the cya is distributed in your pool water immediately & not trapped in your filter media.
Liquid stabilizer (cya) should only be used a gallon at a time & the bottle rinsed thoroughly in the pool because it settles in the bottle making smaller doses inaccurate.
Use PoolMath to calculate all additions.

 

[cloeymi12]

Ok I think I got.
First - I need to add the dry stabilizer (with knee high sock or sock skimmer) or liquid to get the CYA up to 30.
Second - once CYA is 30 start adding Liquid Chlorine (base off pool math) Target FC from the CYA/Chlorine chart. Test every 2-4 hrs and add chlorine until I have reached my target FC of 4 ( I am assuming after each test I would enter in the pool math to know how much chlorine to add at each interval?)
Third - after last does of chlorine of the day - turn off SWG and perform a night test to see where the FC. Record and then do another FC test in early am.
Fourth - If the FC drops 1.0 ppm (does that mean if my target is 4 and it drops below 3?) then I have algae and need to start the Sham process? Otherwise if it stay the same or drops 0.5 I am good.
Thanks
LaVonna

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

once CYA is 30 start adding Liquid Chlorine

No need to wait for CYA. Get FC up to target level and maintain there.

Third - after last does of chlorine of the day - turn off SWG and perform a night test to see where the FC. Record and then do another FC test in early am.

Correct. Do the tests after sunset and before sunrise. You may consider a 25 ml test for more accuracy. Two scoops of powder and multiply number of drops by 0.20 (divide by 5).

Fourth - If the FC drops 1.0 ppm (does that mean if my target is 4 and it drops below 3?) then I have algae and need to start the Sham process? Otherwise if it stay the same or drops 0.5 I am good.

Correct. You don't need to run the pump at night, but make sure you run it 20-30 minutes prior to the test.

I'm guessing with cloudy water, you'll probably fail the OCLT. How does the water look now?

Sounds like you have a good understanding.

 

[Mdragger88]

Put the cya in the sock & then immediately chlorinate assuming the calculated amount is there - because it will be in short order.
For 30 ppm cya you want to target at least 6ppm fc. Always aim for the high target on the FC/CYA Levels or even a scooch more so if fc falls (which it will) you don’t accidentally fall below minimum.
No need to test every 2 hours unless u are losing chlorine very quickly & fear u will fall below minimum.
For the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test if the fc in the morning drops more than 1ppm below your last recorded measurement of the night - yes, u proceed w/ the SLAM Process

 

[cloeymi12]

No need to wait for CYA. Get FC up to target level and maintain there.

Correct. Do the tests after sunset and before sunrise. You may consider a 25 ml test for more accuracy. Two scoops of powder and multiply number of drops by 0.20 (divide by 5).

Correct. You don't need to run the pump at night, but make sure you run it 20-30 minutes prior to the test.

I'm guessing with cloudy water, you'll probably fail the OCLT. How does the water look now?

Sounds like you have a good understanding.

This is how my pool water looks right now.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

It looks cloudy. But let's see what the OCLT results show.

Do you monitor filter pressure as part of your maintenance program? TFP recommends cleaning or backwashing when filter pressure increases 25% or the clean (baseline) reading.

When you find time, take a few minutes to complete your signature. It will others us help you. This LINK will take you to the setting menu.

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[cloeymi12]

This is how my pool water looks right now.

No need to wait for CYA. Get FC up to target level and maintain there.

Correct. Do the tests after sunset and before sunrise. You may consider a 25 ml test for more accuracy. Two scoops of powder and multiply number of drops by 0.20 (divide by 5).

Correct. You don't need to run the pump at night, but make sure you run it 20-30 minutes prior to the test.

I'm guessing with cloudy water, you'll probably fail the OCLT. How does the water look now?

Sounds like you have a good understanding.

 

[cloeymi12]

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Check out some of the posts here...great motivation.
How Clear is TFP Clear?

 

[cloeymi12]

Check out some of the posts here...great motivation.
How Clear is TFP Clear?

Ok I will check out the post.
I added a gallon of stabilizer. Getting ready to do a FC test then start adding chlorine.

Is it best to not swim in the pool until it’s sparkly clear again?

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Algae itself is not harmful, it's pathogens and viruses that can be present as a result of low FC levels. If you stabilize CYA, raise FC to target levels and don't fall below minimum for your CYA level, you should be fine to swim in 12 hours as long as you can see the bottom of the pool.

A quote from this article:

So if your pool is cloudy, but the bottom is visible, AND you have already raised the sanitizer level for at least 12 hours with proper circulation, so you are actively addressing the low sanitizer situation, then the pool is likely to be generally safe to swim from a germ perspective, although algae is still living and present.​

 

[cloeymi12]

It looks cloudy. But let's see what the OCLT results show.

Do you monitor filter pressure as part of your maintenance program? TFP recommends cleaning or backwashing when filter pressure increases 25% or the clean (baseline) reading.

When you find time, take a few minutes to complete your signature. It will others us help you. This LINK will take you to the setting menu.

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Yes I monitor filter pressure as part of maintenance. I just did a backwash over the weekend.

 

[cloeymi12]

No need to wait for CYA. Get FC up to target level and maintain there.

Correct. Do the tests after sunset and before sunrise. You may consider a 25 ml test for more accuracy. Two scoops of powder and multiply number of drops by 0.20 (divide by 5).

Correct. You don't need to run the pump at night, but make sure you run it 20-30 minutes prior to the test.

I'm guessing with cloudy water, you'll probably fail the OCLT. How does the water look now?

Sounds like you have a good understanding.

Testing FC- What if I can’t get water sample to turn pink after multiple doses of adding scoops R-0870?

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

If sample doesn't turn pink after one heaping scoop your FC is 0.0. Don't add anymore powder...you'll just waste it.

How much liquid chlorine did you add, what strength, and how long did you wait to test?