My check salt and inspect cell light blinking, generating light still solid green, salt level on meter 2600, tested salt lvl 3800, free chlorine 3600

[naruto6302]

any recommendation on what's the first step if anything need to be done.

I have t9 hayward cell.

 

[anomale]

I recently had the same problem on a Circupool RJ-60 it was a bad temperature sensor, They had me move a jumper in the unit and has been working great ever since. Check the pool temp and compare it to what the hayward is reading, if its way off then that would be the culprit.

 

[Mdragger88]

The inspect cell light comes on every 500 hours (like the oil change light in your car)
It can be reset by holding down the diagnostics button for 3 seconds.

As for the rest

Basic AquaRite Diagnostics​

This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

• Report all diagnostic readings when you..
  • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
  • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
• What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
• What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

 

[Mdragger88]

I recently had the same problem on a Circupool RJ-60 it was a bad temperature sensor, They had me move a jumper in the unit and has been working great ever since. Check the pool temp and compare it to what the hayward is reading, if its way off then that would be the culprit.

There’s no temperature sensor on an aquarite. It’s a conductivity measurement.

 

[anomale]

There’s no temperature sensor on an aquarite. It’s a conductivity measurement.

this is what is in the manual for aquarite, found here Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

• The cell output reduces to 20% at 60°F and below if % is above 20%
• The cell shuts off when water temperature at 50F and below
• LCD displays COLD when water temperature is below 50F

For the Aquarite, if the display shows either "HOT or COLD" and you know it is false, then most likely the non-repairable temperature sensor inside the cell went bad.

Disconnect the cell, measure the resistance of the temperature sensor (pin 6 against pin 10 on the plug). Or access the wiring connection inside the cell, nip either the red or blue wire and test. Turn on the swcg, push the diagnostic button once to get rid of the possible "COLD" error. Run the diagnostic, the temperature should read 77°F regardless of the actual water temp.

If the cell is still good, you can temporarily install a 10kΩ, 1/4 watt resistor across the red and blue wire inside the cell or rig your own temp sensor.

A hack to bypass the cell temperature sensor can be found at T-15 Cell "Hot" Error, Salt Reading Low

 

[Mdragger88]

this is what is in the manual for aquarite, found here Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

• The cell output reduces to 20% at 60°F and below if % is above 20%
• The cell shuts off when water temperature at 50F and below
• LCD displays COLD when water temperature is below 50F

For the Aquarite, if the display shows either "HOT or COLD" and you know it is false, then most likely the non-repairable temperature sensor inside the cell went bad.

Disconnect the cell, measure the resistance of the temperature sensor (pin 6 against pin 10 on the plug). Or access the wiring connection inside the cell, nip either the red or blue wire and test. Turn on the swcg, push the diagnostic button once to get rid of the possible "COLD" error. Run the diagnostic, the temperature should read 77°F regardless of the actual water temp.

If the cell is still good, you can temporarily install a 10kΩ, 1/4 watt resistor across the red and blue wire inside the cell or rig your own temp sensor.

A hack to bypass the cell temperature sensor can be found at T-15 Cell "Hot" Error, Salt Reading Low

non replaceable but there nevertheless. Although this doesn’t sound like op’s problem.
Looking forward to their response with diagnostic readings as that should tell us what path to take next

 

[naruto6302]

The inspect cell light comes on every 500 hours (like the oil change light in your car)
It can be reset by holding down the diagnostics button for 3 seconds.

As for the rest

Basic AquaRite Diagnostics​

This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

• Report all diagnostic readings when you..
  • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
  • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
• What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
• What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

Salinity reading was with taylor kit but it was off by like over 1000ppm, free chlorine was stable, i checked two days in a row. After recalibrating, the number seems good now, hopefully it stay that way. Also my cell was set to t15(not sure how important that is), previous owner never adjusted it so I readjust that to t9 too. Also cell and box serial number are 3E18122 and 3A18128 respectively.

 

[Mdragger88]

Are you saying all the warning lights went off?

 

[naruto6302]

Are you saying all the warning lights went off?

yea, the check cell light went off cause I reset the cycle after cleaning it with muriatic acid. But since the recalibrated reading on salinity is higher than 2700 now, it doesn't blink the check salt light anymore either, It's still a bit off from my actual tested value, but at least not over 1000 off and doesn't blink anymore

 

[Mdragger88]

Careful with the cleaning using acid.
It removes the coating on the cell and reduces its lifespan.
Best to prevent the cell from needing cleaning at all by controlling water chemistry & keeping csi in check.
If you must clean it, try using a zip tie or strong blasts with the water hose to carefully remove buildup before resorting to stronger methods like vinegar or diluted muriatic acid.

 

[naruto6302]

Careful with the cleaning using acid.
It removes the coating on the cell and reduces its lifespan.
Best to prevent the cell from needing cleaning at all by controlling water chemistry & keeping csi in check.
If you must clean it, try using a zip tie or strong blasts with the water hose to carefully remove buildup before resorting to stronger methods like vinegar or diluted muriatic acid.

yea, I water it out quite a bit first before adding diluted acid. I also dont do it very often, this is the first time in a few months. Speaking of csi, I have a fiberglass pool, and my calcium level is at like 100 since it's been raining quite a lot in Houston this year so I haven't been adding hose water. Should I get some calcium hardness increaser since I heard recommended range for salt pool is like 250.

 

[Mdragger88]

Do you have waterline tiles? Or a heater?
What is your tap water ch?

 

[naruto6302]

Do you have waterline tiles? Or a heater?
What is your tap water ch?

no waterline tiles or heater, and I never thought about testing tap water ch, i'll test it this weekend and report back

 

[naruto6302]

Do you have waterline tiles? Or a heater?
What is your tap water ch?

been busy recently but finally got a chance to test my tap water ch, and it's 90ppm almost the same as my pool ch which is 100ppm atm

 

[Mdragger88]

The calcium hardness recommendations are based on the pool surface type & whether you have a heater or tile or not. Nothing to do with having a swcg.
Let’s ask @Texas Splash what he recommends for fiberglass with no heater or tiles.

 

[Texas Splash]

With no plaster products or equipment that mandates a minimum CH, a FG pool could technically be operated at a very low CH. It's good to have some CH in the water simply to serve as a potential buffer to help mitigate certain types of staining and perhaps reduce the likelihood of foaming, but that's about it. Here at TFP we list a minimum CH simply to cover all possible scenarios (waterline tile, waterfalls, heater, etc).