Mustard Algae keeps coming back - then Bromide mistake

[Newdude]

I ask because in my sample size of exactly *2*, I have had poofing more often than not since 2012.

At my first house I started with 160 oaks on an acre and over a decade dropped half of them. The aerial debris and pollen was insane.

Then we moved to a wide open yard on a farm and while entirely different, the farm dust and pollen has the same end result.

If all we have to go on is the poofing, it could be solely environmental which seems to be the case at the times you're passing OCLTs.

To be clear I am not suggesting any lessening of due dilligence. Scour every inch to rule them out. Maintain an elevated FC level anytime crud is being dumped in the pool as evidenced by the poofing, while the OCLT passes. But sometimes it'll just be the enviornmental crud sending you on a mustard algae side quest that you seemingly can't complete.

 

[Mdragger88]

Nathan,
For MA the regular slam process is to be followed until all 3 end of slam criteria are are met.
Including crystal clear water with no algae dead or alive.
Not just the oclt part before proceeding with MA fc levels for 24 hours.
The MA fc levels are meant to be the final precautionary nail in the coffin not the main cure.
The slam process does the bulk of the work here.
I suspect you were just not maintaining slam long enough before moving on to MA protocols.
Excesses fc dosage is not equivalent to/the same as extended exposure to a safe level of fc.

Also, afterwards you may need to maintain fc above MA minimum for your cya for a while to ensure it doesn’t return. (This is listed on the chart linked in the ma page)
How long is up to you. Some people who have had recurrent issues choose to do so for a few weeks, the rest of the season, or even indefinitely.
What you’re describing does sound like it behaves as MA does. Coming back when fc levels fall within normal maintenance ranges.
What is shown in the video may also be pollen its hard to tell.

You mentioned not being able to use the pool during all this last season.
*It is safe for swimmers, surfaces & equipment for fc to be anywhere between minimum & slam level for your cya so long as you can see the bottom of the deep end for swimmer safety & if ph is in the 7’s.

If you endure this process again Be sure to soak all pool stuffs in ma slam level water.
Covers, floaties, toys, poles, vac, all of it. Anything you may reintroduce to the water in the future. A wash & run in the dryer for suits should be sufficient.
As tex mentioned- go on the hunt for hidden lurking places.
*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide {light niches, steps (inside & out), drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, weir door foam, abandoned lines, autofill, overflow drains, seam flaps, etc.}
*If water can go there, algae can thrive there.
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)

I wish you the best in your fight!

 

[ajw22]

I think your poofing is from dead algae from the normal chlorination process if you are passing the OCLT.

I don't see a Pool Cleaner listed in your signature. Do you run a pool cleaner daily?

 

[nathandantzler]

Ok, I think I found where the MA was hiding. I always remove the light and scrub the inside of the niche, but just to be extra thorough, I thought I’d try to clean the inside of the conduit that carries the wiring for the light.
I used an air compressor to blow air from the electrical junction box into the conduit that runs to the light niche, and a DARK yellow / brown cloud entered the pool.
I had finished filling and balancing the pool before hand, with 6ppm FC. Within 30 mins of blowing out the line, the entire pool turned dark green.

I’ve started the SLAM again, and it chewed through 12 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine in the first few hours.

I then mixed up 50/50 ratio of chlorine and water in a bucket, and used a funnel to pour it down the conduit line from the top side, to try to kill any MA left in the line.

I plan to check it every 2 hours and diligently stay on top of the SLAM.

I’m hoping this finally solves my issue.

I didn’t check CYA since it’s just finished refilling, and I safe to assume CYA is 0 since it’s all new water?

 

[Texas Splash]

Wow. That's crazy, but certainly explains the struggle. Good catch. You probably haven't had a chance to check in the drain yet huh?

 

[Mdragger88]

Whoa! Maybe that was the epicenter?

We often times suggest putting your vac hose near the niche to prevent the gunk from escaping too badly into the pool.
I too am curious about your drains. Have you ever removed the covers or blasted them with the hose?
If you completely drained there would be no cya - if you had a little water left that would need to be considered even though it may be too low to be measured.

 

[nathandantzler]

The pool has now passed all 3 slam criteria and the chlorine is back to normal levels. The water is perfectly balanced and crystal clear. I swam to the bottom of the deep end to inspect the drain, no sign of any mustard algae there, so I think I’m good to go.

The moral of the story for me was, don’t EVER add bromide, if SLAM isn’t working for mustard algae, then it’s hiding somewhere, for me it was the conduit into the light niche.

Thank you for all for your help and advice.

 

[Texas Splash]

 

[mgtfp]

I didn’t check CYA since it’s just finished refilling, and I safe to assume CYA is 0 since it’s all new water?

Well done on finding that algae epicenter!

Just wanted to check on your CYA: Have you added CYA in the meantime? Chlorine is very strong without CYA. Without CYA, FC 0.64 is equivalent to SLAM-level. Also, without CYA you have a chlorine half life of 20-60 minutes (depending on pH) in full sun.