Muriatic Acid quality

[tstex]

Hello to all,

Not sure if this is just a local issue [Houston/Harris, Fort Bend, Montgomery counties] or more widespread, but was trying to discern if any of you in these areas have experienced weaker or less effective Muriatic Acid? My TA is always in the 50-60 range.

It seems like in the last 10 months or so, the m-acid I have purchased [HD or Lowes], that the efficacy just doesn't seem to be there. I used to pour a lot less when I added acid and it would at least go to the 7.5 range and stay in that range longer. Now it seems I am adding more and it goes to the 7.6+ and quickly goes to 7.8+ in much shorter time. Has anyone else experienced much weaker m-acid tests after adding your acid?

I am familiar with aeration and all the other things that raise pH. Doing nothing diff when previously adding less M-acid and getting better both short and long term results.

Thoughts, questions?

Thank you,
tstex

 

[proavia]

What percent muriatic acid? 31.45% or 14.5%?

 

[Texas Splash]

Interesting. I usually grab my acid at HD and I haven't noticed anything odd ...... yet.

 

[tstex]

What percent muriatic acid? 31.45% or 14.5%?

always 31.45 Maybe I might buy from another place and see what happens

Pat, glad you are not experiencing any major delta's

I never measure my acid additions. I just stand at one end of the pool and pour for 2-4 sec's pretty much the same every time. Always make sure when I pour, I am walking into the wind....have had great and consistent results from 2014-15 to early 2023...strange.

 

[mgtfp]

Have you added Borates lately? But that wouldn't explain the faster rise, so I guess the answer is "no".

 

[tstex]

Never added a borate, or anything else except CL, M-Acid & baking soda. Obtain my CYA via periodical pucks.

 

[Bperry]

Never added a borate, or anything else except CL, M-Acid & baking soda. Obtain my CYA via periodical pucks.

Adding baking soda will raise TA, which increases tendency for pH to rise. You shouldn’t need much of it.

 

[mgtfp]

How old are your test reagents? Maybe your TA is higher than you think?

 

[ezchief]

Hello to all,

Not sure if this is just a local issue [Houston/Harris, Fort Bend, Montgomery counties] or more widespread, but was trying to discern if any of you in these areas have experienced weaker or less effective Muriatic Acid? My TA is always in the 50-60 range.

It seems like in the last 10 months or so, the m-acid I have purchased [HD or Lowes], that the efficacy just doesn't seem to be there. I used to pour a lot less when I added acid and it would at least go to the 7.5 range and stay in that range longer. Now it seems I am adding more and it goes to the 7.6+ and quickly goes to 7.8+ in much shorter time. Has anyone else experienced much weaker m-acid tests after adding your acid?

I am familiar with aeration and all the other things that raise pH. Doing nothing diff when previously adding less M-acid and getting better both short and long term results.

Thoughts, questions?

Thank you,
tstex

I had the same issue this summer. Bought mine at HD in Frisco, TX in May. 4 gallons in May and thought I was going crazy with it not hitting the target for pH and I measure my additions. Julien date was in April sometime. I just got 2 more gallons from the same HD a few weeks ago and I'm back on track. Julien date is in September. Like before, it is stored outside at HD in the shade. I store it in the garage.

The weird thing about this batch is it is in clear milk gallon jugs with childproof caps. Yes, milk jugs. I had heard ma was in short supply. Wonder if the containers were the issue.

 

[mknauss]

Like before, it is stored outside at HD in the shade.

Muriatic acid is not effected by sun, heat, etc. The plastic jug may be, but the acid is not.

 

[ezchief]

 

[mknauss]

The date created for muriatic acid is irrelevant. It does not degrade. Again, the jug can, and you do need to be careful of it, but the acid is not effected.

 

[ezchief]

Thanks

 

[JoyfulNoise]

That MA is very yellow. You might try finding a different source. Around here, I get MA and it’s clear as vodka. The yellow color comes from trace iron contamination. It’s fine for etching concrete but you could cause staining on your pool if you use a lot of it.

 

[mgtfp]

That MA is very yellow. You might try finding a different source. Around here, I get MA and it’s clear as vodka. The yellow color comes from trace iron contamination. It’s fine for etching concrete but you could cause staining on your pool if you use a lot of it.

Good point. Yesterday I picked up some MA at the hardware store. They are selling two types next to each other, same brand. One is labelled "Pool Acid" and comes in a clear bottle, and is always clear as vodka. The other comes in a black bottle, same concentration, but sold for masonry work. I suspect the stuff in the black bottle won't be as clear. But I've never bought it, so wouldn't know for sure.

 

[maggiesfan]

That MA is very yellow. You might try finding a different source. Around here, I get MA and it’s clear as vodka. The yellow color comes from trace iron contamination. It’s fine for etching concrete but you could cause staining on your pool if you use a lot of it.

Hi JoyfulNoise,
where do you get your MA from?, the last lot I got from HD was very yellow.
thanks

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Hi JoyfulNoise,
where do you get your MA from?, the last lot I got from HD was very yellow.
thanks

I get it from eKonomy Pools. They are pricier than HD at almost $13/gallon. They used to be supplied by HASA but the manufacturer is different now. I’ll have to grab the name off the bottle tomorrow …

 

[JamesW]

The acid looks bad to me.

The color is way off.

You should check with the manufacturer to see what they say.

 

[JamesW]

Acid can be yellow, but it should be very light yellow and clear.

Yours is dark and opaque.

I would return it for a refund and get a different brand.

The quality control is very bad.

See what the manufacturer says.

 

[JamesW]

It looks like HDX is a Home Depot store brand.