Momma needs help with slam please please please

Progress update: BE9CEBDF-3F26-41D8-B4EB-651FA2C96564.jpeg2D61793D-3C6F-4DD8-A255-EAB06F2353CD.jpeg
Pool is looking more blue but is somewhat cloudy... still slamming, daily vaccum and brushing and running the filter 24x7, what else is suggested for the cloudiness? If I test more than cc will it be a clean read?
 
Haa has, POP! Yes am hopeful maybe by next weekend we can get in it. Thank you!

I am curious about the DE- but, while I did buy an over the side of the pool skimmer last year- I couldn’t get it to sit right with the oval diameter of the pool steel bars so... long story short- I don’t have a skimmer attached (I manually skim daily!) is it possible to add de to the pool without a skimmer (and without unhooking the filter to add directly in filter)?
 
So your return is two ports on the side of the pool, correct?
There will not be clean way to do it. You could try a funnel with tube attached. Tube shoved into one of the ports. Mix up 1/4 cup of DE in water and pour in the funnel.
No guarantees. Might get DE in pool.
 
Yes- two ports suck out the water that combine to one tube that funnels into the filter.
Oooh that’s clever! What happens if de gets into pool water?
Also, is it safe to get in the pool to vacuum/brush during slam fc between 17/20 ppm? Is the only danger needing to add more liquid chlorine after? Or is the danger that it would bleach swim suits, hair and irritate skin?

PS- Thank you for answering all my questions- you have been super helpful with your guidance and I appreciate your help so very much!!!!
 
If DE gets in the pool, you have to vac it out to the filter.
You can safely swim in a pool as long as the FC is above the minimum and at or below SLAM level based on your CYA. You must also be able to see the bottom of the pool in the deep end of the pool.
 
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34C71E6E-25EB-4A08-BE9A-9FD576BA28A0.jpegPool update and question:

Water is clear- yay!
Fc 16
Cc 1
PH 9
TA 70
CYA 40

we are still experiencing fc loss over night so I know we need to keep slamming, but:
Should I lower my PH while slamming?
 

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How did you get a test result of pH 9? Non of our test methods test to that level.

Remember, you have a SWCG and pH down is sodium bisulfate, which will destroy the SWCG.

Use muriatic acid.
 
The K2006C comes with the Taylor '2000 Series' comparator, which only measures up to 8.0.
View attachment 342986

Where did you see the 9?
9 was the number of drops of R-0006 I need to add to get to the 7.4 maybe I quoted it wrong in my post? I had to add 9 drops and then crossed reference the chart in the book.
Is it safe to add muriatic acid while slamming?
also curious, how does ph down hurt the SWG?3C6133EA-F5DF-4500-AA56-024D02329588.jpegD44D68C1-AE7D-4429-BE48-CCC811B2FC35.jpeg
 
Use PoolMath. Put in the pH value you tested and your goal pH.

It is safe to add acid to the pool water.

Sodium bisulfate (dry acid) leaves sulfates in your water. Sulfates build up in the water and they corrode metals. The rare earth minerals on your SWCG plates are eroded and your SWCG will no longer work.
 
Don’t worry about testing pH right now. Whenever your FC level is above 10 your pH test is not accurate.
That is why we always get our pH to 7.2 before starting a slam.
 
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Use PoolMath. Put in the pH value you tested and your goal pH.

It is safe to add acid to the pool water.

Sodium bisulfate (dry acid) leaves sulfates in your water. Sulfates build up in the water and they corrode metals. The rare earth minerals on your SWCG plates are eroded and your SWCG will no longer work.
Ah thank you for explaining!

for the pool math, would I enter the PH as 9 (the number of drops I added to get to 7.4 on the test)?
 
If you add anything to your water right now to adjust pH, then you are basing additions on faulty tests. So it’s like playing pin the tail on the donkey.
 
Don’t worry about testing pH right now. Whenever your FC level is above 10 your pH test is not accurate.
That is why we always get our pH to 7.2 before starting a slam.
Ok, so don’t mess with ph at all until slam is finished? I feel like I am SO CLOSE, but still experiencing fc loss overnight
 
As Major said above, if your FC is above 10 ppm, the pH test is invalid.

The pH is NOT the number of drops. You read the pH from the color comparison. Do not use those funky base/acid drops in the K2006. Just take the pH reading from the color comparison and put it in Poolmath.
 
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