892 Watts at 2600 rpms would love help with cost analysis compared to single speed pump I described above at this wattage
Mixed Instructions - VS Pump & SWG
- Thread starter Enzodast
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,688
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
What is your filter PSI as the heater is turning off and you are increasing the pump speeds?
Filter psi was at 10 when at 2200 rpms and stays around 10 up to 2600 rpms. The other day it got to 20 because it was dirty from the gook. That's when I did a full clean to try and eliminate the filter as a bottleneck.
Right now at 2600 rpms it's maybe 11psi. When running lower speeds like 1800 rpms psi is only like 5
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,688
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You have to give a better view if the heater to see which is the IN pipe and OUT pipe.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,688
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Yes, it is installed backwards against the flow.
Water flows from the top pipe to the bottom pipe yet the flow arrow points up.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,688
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Dunno. Could be. Flip it around and see.
The good thing is it has unions that unscrew and it is not glued.
Flipped it. Now the heater is running while at 2000 rpms heaters been running for 20 minutes this is usually when it shuts off... 430 Watts at 2000 rpms.
Flow out of returns also looks a lot stronger than before.
I'll report back later if heater stays running
Flow out of returns also looks a lot stronger than before.
I'll report back later if heater stays running
@PoolStored @Rancho Cost-a-Lotta
Hey guys it's been a fun few days now that I see the light at the end of the tunnel.
Finished slam...CC is 0 and tested everything. Added salt this morning and just tested everything I could. Salt is at 3200. My swg recommends 3500 so I'll add another bag or two tomorrow. That said I'm ready to then on swg in am.
Biggest issue so far was the heater... They installed the check valve backwards. The amount of work that ensued and anguish from me the last 3 days is wild. Tried figuring out every possible reason the heater wouldn't stay running. Kept changing pump rpms....kept cleaning the filter (FULL open and clean and recharge DE. Did it probably 3 times thinking the gunk in pool was putting to much pressure and not sending water to the heater). Also thanks again for tip on the timer... I actually taught my 30 year experienced electrician something new about a timer he's installed a thousand times. Ill set up swg to run 12 hrs and monitor FC levels next several days.
Fixed the check valve today and heater brought pool temp from 68 to 75 before I shut it off for the night (gonna be 46 tonight in CT). I'll turn it back on again tomorrow when it heats up im very curious to see how well my solar blanket is going to protect the water temp btw I'll report back on that too.
But please check my numbers...I think I'm pretty good on everything even the FC of 5. Pool math didn't say anything wrong with that...we did have rain which I think brought down my ph so I'll monitor that. But besides getting the swg dialed in and maybe getting salt up to 3500 slowly. Anything else I need to do right now to say my transition from chlorine only to salt and conversion of single speed pump to vs...adding the swg and adding the heater...I think I'm at the home stretch!!?
Also I am loving the test kit from TF. OMG I can't wait to do my next full test with my 8 and 10 year old girls who wonder when science would ever be relevant in life....watch some color changing reactions!
Oh last thing I successfully had the heater running after fixing the check valve for 8 straight hours. It. Brought pool temp up 7 degrees on a 70 degree day...im thrilled with that. And pump was barely moving only 2000 rpms and 400 or so watts to achieve that. Would love to have the heater show it's wattage draw but not possible with what I have.
Thanks!
Hey guys it's been a fun few days now that I see the light at the end of the tunnel.
Finished slam...CC is 0 and tested everything. Added salt this morning and just tested everything I could. Salt is at 3200. My swg recommends 3500 so I'll add another bag or two tomorrow. That said I'm ready to then on swg in am.
Biggest issue so far was the heater... They installed the check valve backwards. The amount of work that ensued and anguish from me the last 3 days is wild. Tried figuring out every possible reason the heater wouldn't stay running. Kept changing pump rpms....kept cleaning the filter (FULL open and clean and recharge DE. Did it probably 3 times thinking the gunk in pool was putting to much pressure and not sending water to the heater). Also thanks again for tip on the timer... I actually taught my 30 year experienced electrician something new about a timer he's installed a thousand times. Ill set up swg to run 12 hrs and monitor FC levels next several days.
Fixed the check valve today and heater brought pool temp from 68 to 75 before I shut it off for the night (gonna be 46 tonight in CT). I'll turn it back on again tomorrow when it heats up im very curious to see how well my solar blanket is going to protect the water temp btw I'll report back on that too.
But please check my numbers...I think I'm pretty good on everything even the FC of 5. Pool math didn't say anything wrong with that...we did have rain which I think brought down my ph so I'll monitor that. But besides getting the swg dialed in and maybe getting salt up to 3500 slowly. Anything else I need to do right now to say my transition from chlorine only to salt and conversion of single speed pump to vs...adding the swg and adding the heater...I think I'm at the home stretch!!?
Also I am loving the test kit from TF. OMG I can't wait to do my next full test with my 8 and 10 year old girls who wonder when science would ever be relevant in life....watch some color changing reactions!
Oh last thing I successfully had the heater running after fixing the check valve for 8 straight hours. It. Brought pool temp up 7 degrees on a 70 degree day...im thrilled with that. And pump was barely moving only 2000 rpms and 400 or so watts to achieve that. Would love to have the heater show it's wattage draw but not possible with what I have.
Thanks!
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,688
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
That is not a check valve. That is a bypass valve to keep the flow into the heater below 70 GPM.
ive learned that myself but the label literally says check valve and its what they call it. its not a normal check valve but either way it being installed backwards was my issue as it was forcing i think water back into the heater and it was choking on itself if that makes sense.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,688
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,428
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
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I can't see your numbers. Feel free to post a full set of results next time you test. Vinyl pools are a bit easier to manage. Keep numbers within recommended ranges. We do recommend lower TA with SWG pools to mitigate scale in the cell. Shoot for the 60-80 range.
I like to run FC a bit hot. There's not harm in doing so and keeping FC a bit high gives you a bit of a cushion. I make it easy and target about 10% of my CYA. When my CYA is at 80 ppm, I target an FC of 8 ppm.
I'm glad things are going well!
see link below...this is what mine looks like and i've attached images. the actual model when you zoom in on mine is
AquaCal Bypass Manifold - STK0135
www.saltpoolguys.com
so i have no idea if they gave me the wrong one but it came from the factory with the unit. at least in the photo from their shop it showed this box on top of the heat pump.
i'll reach out to aquacal tomorrow and ask them how to confirm but it looks like the links above.
Attachments
I've been following along with you. TFP survives with the support of our members. There are no annoying pop-up and ads. Please consider supporting TFP as you're able:
Become a TFP Supporter
Help Support TFP Trouble Free Pool is run by a dedicated group of volunteers that … Read more…
I can't see your numbers. Feel free to post a full set of results next time you test. Vinyl pools are a bit easier to manage. Keep numbers within recommended ranges. We do recommend lower TA with SWG pools to mitigate scale in the cell. Shoot for the 60-80 range.
I like to run FC a bit hot. There's not harm in doing so and keeping FC a bit high gives you a bit of a cushion. I make it easy and target about 10% of my CYA. When my CYA is at 80 ppm, I target an FC of 8 ppm.
I'm glad things are going well!
Numbers are here.
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,428
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Looks good, but don't flirt with FC minimum. Stay closer to mid-target level (FC/CYA Levels). TA is good.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,688
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
To clarify...see link below...this is what mine looks like and i've attached images. the actual model when you zoom in on mine is
AquaCal Bypass Manifold - STK0135
www.saltpoolguys.com
so i have no idea if they gave me the wrong one but it came from the factory with the unit. at least in the photo from their shop it showed this box on top of the heat pump.
i'll reach out to aquacal tomorrow and ask them how to confirm but it looks like the links above.
That valve in the middle of the H manifold is a check valve with a 5 pound spring.
As that check valve is installed in the H configuration, it creates a bypass at high flow rates.
That check valve does not perform the functions other check valves in pool plumbing typically do.
Aquacal calls it a BYPASS KIT. The kit consists of the check valve in the manifold configuration as a bypass.
- Jun 24, 2021
- 16,496
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
You reported CYA of 60 and 75 within minutes of each other, and an FC of 5.
1) always round CYA up to the next 10, or only fill the view tube to each ten when you test. Review the instructions here: CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test
2) If your CYA is 80, you should be 6-11 FC with SWG. But, you are running your SWG, like a LC pool (adding for 12 hours). FC pool is 9-11
3) Get your FC up to 10 with liquid chlorine and keep it there with SWG
4) Run your VSP 24/7. Run your SWG 23 hours and reduce your % output.
5) Follow this link-->FC/CYA Levels
1) always round CYA up to the next 10, or only fill the view tube to each ten when you test. Review the instructions here: CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test
2) If your CYA is 80, you should be 6-11 FC with SWG. But, you are running your SWG, like a LC pool (adding for 12 hours). FC pool is 9-11
3) Get your FC up to 10 with liquid chlorine and keep it there with SWG
4) Run your VSP 24/7. Run your SWG 23 hours and reduce your % output.
5) Follow this link-->FC/CYA Levels