Michael flooded our pool with soundside water. Cleaned in out, drew it down 1/3, topped it off with municipal water, and slammed overnight. Pool is now close to clear and numbers are good except needed 45 oz baking soda for TA and 37 oz. CYA ( in sock); However salt is 6000 ppm on my LaMotte salt meter. It was 3000 before the flood. Must I drain it down another 1/3 and refill to get to 4000 ppm before I start up the SWG? The last thing I want to do is damage the almost-new salt cell, but then again, we're closing the pool in three weeks, so I hate to use more town water then necessary.
Michael flood; now salt is 6000
- Thread starter BobN54
- Start date
Ideally, you should always be within the manufacturer's specifications for warranty. If there was an issue, the manufacturer might deny coverage based on out of spec chemistry.
So, it's probably best to get down below 4,000 ppm before operating.
I would also test with a K-1766 to check the chloride level to compare it to the meter.
So, it's probably best to get down below 4,000 ppm before operating.
I would also test with a K-1766 to check the chloride level to compare it to the meter.
I would call the manufacturer. At start up we were left with a salt reading of 6,700. I called the manufacturer and they said although not ideal won’t damage anything unless it’s north of 8,000. Obviously all systems are different so call your manufacturer to see what they say.
The Australian SWGs typically have a much higher salinity range than the Aquarite. 6,000 ppm is too much.
I went ahead and replaced 1/3 of the water with fresh, as you guys recommended, and that brought the salt reading down to 4200 on the LaMotte meter. The Aquarite's high salt light comes on if it exceeds the maximum allowable amperage, but the trouble shooting guide doesn't say what that trigger number is. I started the SWG and it read about 3.1 amps in 71 degree water; no high salt light. It's average salt reading settled in at 3900 (always seems to read a little low). I'm calling that good enough until the next rain dilutes it some more.
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,910
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
One can measure and test and dose and adjust and finagle salt level and flow rate all they want. The bottom line is: when the salt cell is happy, the salt cell is happy. It has its own ideas about what it needs and doesn't care much about anyone else's! 
If the lights say the salt is good, that should satisfy any warranty issues.
If the lights say the salt is good, that should satisfy any warranty issues.As long as the high salt light does not come on, you should be good. I think that the high amps hits at 4.5 amps for a T-3.
T-15 Amp Range: 3.1 – 8.0 amps
T- 9 Amp Range: 2.3 – 6.7 amps
T-5 Amp Range: 1.9 – 5.7 amps
T-3 Amp Range: 1.3 – 4.5 amps
The cooler water will keep the amps down. If the water temperature was high, you would probably get a high salt error.
T-15 Amp Range: 3.1 – 8.0 amps
T- 9 Amp Range: 2.3 – 6.7 amps
T-5 Amp Range: 1.9 – 5.7 amps
T-3 Amp Range: 1.3 – 4.5 amps
The cooler water will keep the amps down. If the water temperature was high, you would probably get a high salt error.