My heater is running for 2 minutes then closing the gas valve I've checked the gas water columns it's at 13.50 when closed and 7.50 when running. Could somebody tell me what's going on I replaced all the sensors and gas valve and pressure regulator and still continuing to do this problem.
Max etherm 400
- Thread starter JayK73
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,098
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Welcome to TFP.
How old is the heater?
Do you have a 5-button or 6-button keypad?
Did you check the diagnostic LEDs on the 5-button models?
Read Pentair MasterTemp Heaters - Further Reading
Check the thermal regulator and internal bypass valve.
How old is the heater?
Do you have a 5-button or 6-button keypad?
Did you check the diagnostic LEDs on the 5-button models?
Read Pentair MasterTemp Heaters - Further Reading
Check the thermal regulator and internal bypass valve.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,098
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
The design pressure drop is about 0.5" w.c.
Your pressure drop is excessive indicating a problem with the supply.
However, the numbers are within operating spec, so there should be enough gas.
Check for error LEDs and check the Fenwal for a diagnostic LED Flash Sequence.
The following are the LEDs:
- .....PS (Pressure Switch)
- .....HLS (High Limit Switch)
- .....SFS (Stack Flue Sensor)
- .....AFS (Air Flow Switch)
- .....AGS (Automatic Gas Shutoff).
- .....Service System
- .....Thermistor
- .....Heating
- .....Pool On
- ...Spa On
- ...Service Heater.
Pentair MasterTemp Heaters - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Heater Flame Sensing - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
The Fenwal has two test points for flame current FC+ and FC-. Flame current is the current that passes through the flame from sensor to ground.
The best way to measure the flame sense current is with a true RMS meter. Measure the current with a good true rms meter that can measure dc current in the microamp range.
To measure flame current, connect a True RMS or analog DC micro-ammeter to the FC+ and FC- terminals. Readings should be 1.0 µA DC or higher. If the meter reads negative or below "0" on scale, meter leads are reversed. Reconnect leads with proper polarity.
If you don't have a RMS meter you can just test for voltage between FC+ and FC- terminals to confirm if you have flame sense. Each micro-amp of flame current produces 1.0 VDC. For example, 2.6 VDC equates to 2.6 µA. Voltage is an indirect indication but easier to do with typical DIY equipment. But it's still very difficult to measure unless you make up some pin wires to clip your voltmeter to. Or you can order some insulated micro clips for the test.
The reading should be 3-8 volts and this corresponds to the millionth's of an amp signal your flame sense signal should reading. If you try to check this be very careful since you can easily short the 24 vac circuit which can blow the transformer before the 2 amp fuse blows.
When not operating, the flame current should read 0 volts dc and 0 microamps dc. DC amps and voltage should be zero when there is no flame.[6]
When there is a flame, there are ions in the flame that can carry current from the flame sensor to the burner and then through the ground back to the Fenwal. This electro-chemical principle is used for flame detection in most newer gas heaters because it has proven reliable and safe since it detects an actual flame rather than the technique of measuring temperature to infer a flame used in older heaters.
The current mostly goes in one direction, so it's "rectified" from ac to dc. Rather than being a true dc current it is actually a signal in which half of the sine wave is dampened so that it reads close to a dc current. The reason for this is the difference in contact areas of the flame to the sensing surfaces involved. The small area of the flame sensor as opposed to the larger area of the burner to ground connection means that it is easier for the current to flow from the flame sensor to the burner than from the burner to the flame sensor.
This is called "flame rectification" and it's how the Fenwal verifies that the burners actually light when the gas valve opens.
If the Fenwal detects current when the gas valve is closed, the Fenwal determines that there is an error and refuses to operate.
The best way to measure the flame sense current is with a true RMS meter. Measure the current with a good true rms meter that can measure dc current in the microamp range.
To measure flame current, connect a True RMS or analog DC micro-ammeter to the FC+ and FC- terminals. Readings should be 1.0 µA DC or higher. If the meter reads negative or below "0" on scale, meter leads are reversed. Reconnect leads with proper polarity.
If you don't have a RMS meter you can just test for voltage between FC+ and FC- terminals to confirm if you have flame sense. Each micro-amp of flame current produces 1.0 VDC. For example, 2.6 VDC equates to 2.6 µA. Voltage is an indirect indication but easier to do with typical DIY equipment. But it's still very difficult to measure unless you make up some pin wires to clip your voltmeter to. Or you can order some insulated micro clips for the test.
The reading should be 3-8 volts and this corresponds to the millionth's of an amp signal your flame sense signal should reading. If you try to check this be very careful since you can easily short the 24 vac circuit which can blow the transformer before the 2 amp fuse blows.
When not operating, the flame current should read 0 volts dc and 0 microamps dc. DC amps and voltage should be zero when there is no flame.[6]
When there is a flame, there are ions in the flame that can carry current from the flame sensor to the burner and then through the ground back to the Fenwal. This electro-chemical principle is used for flame detection in most newer gas heaters because it has proven reliable and safe since it detects an actual flame rather than the technique of measuring temperature to infer a flame used in older heaters.
The current mostly goes in one direction, so it's "rectified" from ac to dc. Rather than being a true dc current it is actually a signal in which half of the sine wave is dampened so that it reads close to a dc current. The reason for this is the difference in contact areas of the flame to the sensing surfaces involved. The small area of the flame sensor as opposed to the larger area of the burner to ground connection means that it is easier for the current to flow from the flame sensor to the burner than from the burner to the flame sensor.
This is called "flame rectification" and it's how the Fenwal verifies that the burners actually light when the gas valve opens.
If the Fenwal detects current when the gas valve is closed, the Fenwal determines that there is an error and refuses to operate.
I'm just getting a service heater light
No led lights. Just service heaters red light.