Mastertemp 400 ICM re-wire

[blazin]

Pools just opened and I had a dreaded red service light with no ignition on my master temp. After a little debug it turns out some rodent made a lovely compact nest in my ICM box.

Many wires have the insulation removed but the wires are intact. I'm sure I could get away with taping a few of them, but I'd rather just do it right.

That being said, I'm not sure if Pentair's 461107 wiring harness includes everything I need. Does anyone know for sure? The one item they did chew through is the 240/120v plug so I'll be ordering that 42001-0105S kit.

My original PB left the 120V inside not connected along with a yellow "fuse" wire. At least I believe that wire is just "extra"..

Any comments would be great. Going to be tossing a few moth balls in there going forward.. Dang rodents.

 

[ajw22]

Pentair MasterTemp Heaters - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Wiring can get chewed up by critters.

If any of the original wiring supplied with this heater must be replaced, installer must supply (No. 18 AWG, 600V, 105° C. U.L. approved AWM low energy stranded) copper wire or it’s equivalent.

Line voltage field wiring should be 14 gauge, with a circuit capacity of 15 Amps.

A complete replacement wiring harness for the old non-connected heater was p/n 42001-0104S. That is being replaced by the replacement wiring harness for the Connected Heater p/n 461107. The new New Wiring Harness for the Connected Heater comes with adapters to make it backward compatible with the non-connected heater.

My original PB left the 120V inside not connected along with a yellow "fuse" wire. At least I believe that wire is just "extra"..

The yellow wire is not a fuse wire. It is the jumper for your firemans switch that was removed when it was connected to the 2 wore control to your Aqualink.

 

[blazin]

Pentair MasterTemp Heaters - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Wiring can get chewed up by critters.

If any of the original wiring supplied with this heater must be replaced, installer must supply (No. 18 AWG, 600V, 105° C. U.L. approved AWM low energy stranded) copper wire or it’s equivalent.

Line voltage field wiring should be 14 gauge, with a circuit capacity of 15 Amps.

A complete replacement wiring harness for the old non-connected heater was p/n 42001-0104S. That is being replaced by the replacement wiring harness for the Connected Heater p/n 461107. The new New Wiring Harness for the Connected Heater comes with adapters to make it backward compatible with the non-connected heater.



The yellow wire is not a fuse wire. It is the jumper for your firemans switch that was removed when it was connected to the 2 wore control to your Aqualink.

Thank you. So should the yellow wire be connected somewhere?

 

[ajw22]

Thank you. So should the yellow wire be connected somewhere?

No, not as long as it is connected to your Aqualink.

If you ever need to restore your heater to local control you replace the control wire with the yellow jumper.

 

[blazin]

Perfect thanks. I

 

[blazin]

Update --- found someone selling an old ICM, transformer, box, and wiring harness on fleabay for under $100. The wires were all I cared about but I replaced the box as it was much cleaner than mine. All in $100 and 2 hours for a rewire and the heater is back up and running.