Finally got around to looking at the heater, since the wife wants the pool heated for Easter.
After hooking the electric back up and giving her a go, nada. Blower didn't come on and I noticed it was getting hot. Figured it was seized and it was.
Broke the motor free and lubed it up a little and spins great now. Fired her back up. Blower comes on, regulator clicks but still no fire. No codes.
Figured the gas valve has debris so took that off and it did have a little water in it. Took as much apart as I could but could not find all my security screw tools (stuff still scattered everywhere since storm) but did as much as I could. No large debris but some minor corrosion on the outlet side but nothing bad. Inlet side looked pretty good. Reinstalled, still no fire.
Checked volts at valve. Getting 26v on fire. Smell a whiff of propane every now and then. No firing.
Still no codes on board but took a look at the ignition module and realized after the 3 cycles it would go into ignition lockout.
Took an ohm reading on the igniter and it is reading right under 100.
I'm thinking it is a valve problem but before overnighting one is there something else I should check first? Thanks!
Update #1 - I replaced the gas valve and the gas smell is stronger but still no fire. So, probably needed one of those anyway. I replaced the ICM and still no luck, however this time the ICM flashes once for air flow fault and does not have ignition lockout but blower still does not come on when commanded. No codes other than service led on the control board. I checked the output on the control board and it is sending out 26v to the ICM. Here is where it gets strange. If you start the heater, no blower, however, if you take off the TH wire before the service led comes on, the blower will start and even stay running if you plug the TH back in. Still no ignite or power going to the ignitor. Each sensor has been bypassed. It seems that there is a disconnect between F1 and F2 with regards the the blower. If you jump them, the blower will come on like it is supposed to but still no fire and I'm starting to think grounding issues with S2 and the ignitor. Checked continuity on all the wires going to ICM and all are good. Rigged up a three way jumper going from the extra L1 terminal by the fireman switch and ran it back to F2 to hopefully eliminate whatever issue TH is having. The blower comes on as it should but still no fire and never a code light on the back of the control board other than the service led. I called Pentair and went through everything with them plus a couple of more voltage tests and they are 99% certain that it is the ICM. The replacement ICM I bought was a used one but supposedly good so who knows, maybe it is bad. But still, just did not seem right to me. I did all of the testing above with both ICMs except one and the only difference is the ICM showing ignition lockout on my original one and air fault on the replacement. No codes have ever lit up on the control board other than the service light and reading 126 sometimes while jumping sensors. For one last hoorah before ordering another ICM per Pentair, the test mentioned above that wasn't done with the replacement ICM was checking output voltage at the control board. So, with the new ICM installed I went back to the control board to test the output voltage because I remember Pentair mentioning that it must have at least 24V and considering I was seeing different errors between ICMs I wanted to check again because how could I possible have the same grounding issues or F1/F2 issue with two ICMS (I'm thinking). Oh, and if you pull TH off on the original ICM, the blower does not come on like it does with the new ICM. After turning heater on I am seeing 22 volts at one or two pins coming off the control board so now I am thinking control board issue. No matter what I do, the ignitor never has power so I'm going to go with the control board first. If that does not work, I will get another ICM. I pulled the ignitor out there were no cracks or water on it. I read ohms again and got the same reading with it out of the chamber, 98.2 and holds there. Pentair told me that it needs to be between 50 and 75. I don't believe that but I ordered a new one anyway with the control board because I needed a gasket anyway after taking it out and it did have a tiny bit of corrosion on it but otherwise looked good. I need to pull a lower bolt again just to check if any more water in the chamber but I suspect not because the ignitor was dry. Pentair is convinced it is the ICM but if you follow the flowchart to the T without jumpers and other tests, it does point straight to the control board. The relay on the control board is "ticking" when calling for heat. Board looks flawless. As far as the air fault, does that tell anyone something else I am not seeing? Didn't see any obstructions anywhere but that was just a visual, should I take it apart? Other than the hot air, the output velocity pretty much feels the same from what I remember. Heck, maybe it, the ICM, and the board are bad. Lol
After hooking the electric back up and giving her a go, nada. Blower didn't come on and I noticed it was getting hot. Figured it was seized and it was. Broke the motor free and lubed it up a little and spins great now. Fired her back up. Blower comes on, regulator clicks but still no fire. No codes.
Figured the gas valve has debris so took that off and it did have a little water in it. Took as much apart as I could but could not find all my security screw tools (stuff still scattered everywhere since storm) but did as much as I could. No large debris but some minor corrosion on the outlet side but nothing bad. Inlet side looked pretty good. Reinstalled, still no fire.
Checked volts at valve. Getting 26v on fire. Smell a whiff of propane every now and then. No firing.
Still no codes on board but took a look at the ignition module and realized after the 3 cycles it would go into ignition lockout.
Took an ohm reading on the igniter and it is reading right under 100.
I'm thinking it is a valve problem but before overnighting one is there something else I should check first? Thanks!
Update #1 - I replaced the gas valve and the gas smell is stronger but still no fire. So, probably needed one of those anyway. I replaced the ICM and still no luck, however this time the ICM flashes once for air flow fault and does not have ignition lockout but blower still does not come on when commanded. No codes other than service led on the control board. I checked the output on the control board and it is sending out 26v to the ICM. Here is where it gets strange. If you start the heater, no blower, however, if you take off the TH wire before the service led comes on, the blower will start and even stay running if you plug the TH back in. Still no ignite or power going to the ignitor. Each sensor has been bypassed. It seems that there is a disconnect between F1 and F2 with regards the the blower. If you jump them, the blower will come on like it is supposed to but still no fire and I'm starting to think grounding issues with S2 and the ignitor. Checked continuity on all the wires going to ICM and all are good. Rigged up a three way jumper going from the extra L1 terminal by the fireman switch and ran it back to F2 to hopefully eliminate whatever issue TH is having. The blower comes on as it should but still no fire and never a code light on the back of the control board other than the service led. I called Pentair and went through everything with them plus a couple of more voltage tests and they are 99% certain that it is the ICM. The replacement ICM I bought was a used one but supposedly good so who knows, maybe it is bad. But still, just did not seem right to me. I did all of the testing above with both ICMs except one and the only difference is the ICM showing ignition lockout on my original one and air fault on the replacement. No codes have ever lit up on the control board other than the service light and reading 126 sometimes while jumping sensors. For one last hoorah before ordering another ICM per Pentair, the test mentioned above that wasn't done with the replacement ICM was checking output voltage at the control board. So, with the new ICM installed I went back to the control board to test the output voltage because I remember Pentair mentioning that it must have at least 24V and considering I was seeing different errors between ICMs I wanted to check again because how could I possible have the same grounding issues or F1/F2 issue with two ICMS (I'm thinking). Oh, and if you pull TH off on the original ICM, the blower does not come on like it does with the new ICM. After turning heater on I am seeing 22 volts at one or two pins coming off the control board so now I am thinking control board issue. No matter what I do, the ignitor never has power so I'm going to go with the control board first. If that does not work, I will get another ICM. I pulled the ignitor out there were no cracks or water on it. I read ohms again and got the same reading with it out of the chamber, 98.2 and holds there. Pentair told me that it needs to be between 50 and 75. I don't believe that but I ordered a new one anyway with the control board because I needed a gasket anyway after taking it out and it did have a tiny bit of corrosion on it but otherwise looked good. I need to pull a lower bolt again just to check if any more water in the chamber but I suspect not because the ignitor was dry. Pentair is convinced it is the ICM but if you follow the flowchart to the T without jumpers and other tests, it does point straight to the control board. The relay on the control board is "ticking" when calling for heat. Board looks flawless. As far as the air fault, does that tell anyone something else I am not seeing? Didn't see any obstructions anywhere but that was just a visual, should I take it apart? Other than the hot air, the output velocity pretty much feels the same from what I remember. Heck, maybe it, the ICM, and the board are bad. Lol
