Mama trying to save the pool

[Leesha77]

Hello all, new member though I have been lurking for over a year for advice and pool school.

Facts about my pool:

It is an above ground pool, free standing, nothing fancy. I got one when I was pregnant and maintained it great for 8 years. It tore and I replaced it with a smaller one.

It is a 4800 gallon, paper filter cartridge, 16x10 and 42" deep. Average water temp is 90° (I rocked a DIY solar heater!).

All I want is a place for my son and I to be able to swim together when I get home from working at the hospital, nothing fancy, just a clean and safe pool. He and I have been swimming together since he was 6 months old.

I don't have a fancy water testing system, I have used standard test strips for years and have been able to maintain it OK because, well, it's a small above ground that gets packed away every winter.

Current problem:

Cloudiness (can barely see bottom of pool).

pH and TA were very high. Shocked. Used muriatic acid. pH has stabilized, alkalinity is high.

Currently aerating per readings posts on here.

Current chem levels, which are limited because of the test strips:

Total hardness: ~950-1000
TC: 3
FC: 0
pH: 6.5, down from 7.8 after muriatic acid
TA: ~220 - 240
Stabilizer: ~80

My hope is that someone kind will steer me in the right direction. I fear being dismissed because it's an above ground pool and I am no superstar.

Pic of clearer times attached for tax.

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP. Our methods are based on science and having accurate measurements of the pool water chemistry.

You have a choice...

Invest in a proper test kit so you can accurately maintain your pool water. Like the TF-100 Test Kit ™ or the Taylor K-2006C. They are not fancy, they are just accurate unlike your test strips.

Or drain your pool and refill it with fresh water when you lose control of the water chemistry.

You can decide which is more economical for you.

I suggest you read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and Pool School - Trouble Free Pool

 

[Leesha77]

I have read all of the Pool School information. I cannot retain it very well. I have my Master's Degree in Social Work but have some unique learning challenges. I do best with individual tasks to manage.

Is there any assistance for neurodivergent people here? What do I do if I cannot understand the test kit that you are recommending?

 

[aussieta]

at tfp all recommendations are based on reliable test results
allen advised you on test kits that are known to give consistent reliable results
any advice given on questionable test results would be meaningless
another link you may find
helpfull Guide for Seasonal/Temporary Pools - Trouble Free Pool
remember everyone here is a volunteer, trying to pay forward the help we were given, when we came here with pool problems

 

[Wobblerlorri]

I have a mild case of Aspergers, so I understand being neurodivergent. Rather than thinking of a test kit as a unit unto itself, think of it as a set of individual tests that can be performed independently of each other.

The only test you have to worry about right now is the CYA test, so that you know how much chlorine you need to add using the FC/CYA Levels.

After that, use the FAS-DPD test to determine how much chlorine you have already. Add chlorine as required to bring it up to the level recommended on the chart, if necessary.

If your CYA is above 50, you'll need to drain and replace some water, enough to bring it down to 40 or so.

It's easy once you realize you don't have to run all the tests, and which ones are important for maintaining your pool. You will want to run a suite of tests, namely

Free chlorine FC
Combined chloramines CC
pH
Cyanuric acid CYA
Total alkalinity TA
Calcium hardness CH

once a week, just to get a full picture of how your pool is doing, but don't worry about that now. All you're concerned with at the moment is CYA and FC.

Hope this helped!

 

[Newdude]

Rather than thinking of a test kit as a unit unto itself, think of it as a set of individual tests that can be performed independently of each other

OMG YES !!!! The laminated instruction card looks like rocket science at first glance with 50 steps. But it’s several tests with a handful of the stupid easiest steps you can imagine each.

‘Fill vial to 10 ML’. Ok…. I can do that.
‘add scoop of XXX powder’. OOO-K ? Still easy
‘Add YYY drops and count how many’. Wow easy !!!

*move onto next test which is just as stupid easy*.

I recommend that at first you read the instructions for the specific test you want and gather those 2 or 3 bottles out of the kit and have them ready. Then just follow one silly step at a time. Once you’ve tested a handful of times it will be second nature and you will sling bottles and vials like no tomorrow.

Anywho it’s a very much needed small investment to be able to stay out of the expensive pool store. The kit lasts 2 years and if you think it through $50 a season to stop $250 trips to the pool store twice a month is worth every penny. Especially for those on a tight budget. Your other option with a smaller pool is to do your best and drain when it gets away from you; but those re-balancing chems will add up to more than the cost of the test kit in the long run.

keep us posted.

 

[setsailsoon]

Hello all, new member though I have been lurking for over a year for advice and pool school.

Facts about my pool:

It is an above ground pool, free standing, nothing fancy. I got one when I was pregnant and maintained it great for 8 years. It tore and I replaced it with a smaller one.

It is a 4800 gallon, paper filter cartridge, 16x10 and 42" deep. Average water temp is 90° (I rocked a DIY solar heater!).

All I want is a place for my son and I to be able to swim together when I get home from working at the hospital, nothing fancy, just a clean and safe pool. He and I have been swimming together since he was 6 months old.

I don't have a fancy water testing system, I have used standard test strips for years and have been able to maintain it OK because, well, it's a small above ground that gets packed away every winter.

Current problem:

Cloudiness (can barely see bottom of pool).

pH and TA were very high. Shocked. Used muriatic acid. pH has stabilized, alkalinity is high.

Currently aerating per readings posts on here.

Current chem levels, which are limited because of the test strips:

Total hardness: ~950-1000
TC: 3
FC: 0
pH: 6.5, down from 7.8 after muriatic acid
TA: ~220 - 240
Stabilizer: ~80

My hope is that someone kind will steer me in the right direction. I fear being dismissed because it's an above ground pool and I am no superstar.

Pic of clearer times attached for tax.

L,

So your pool is most likely cloudy because you don't have enough Free Chlorine in it. This allows algae to grow which makes the water cloudy. Your test strips are not accurate enough plus they are measuring the wrong kind of chlorine. Some with learning disabilities can easily master these tests with videos. You need the FAS-DPD test kit for Free Chlorine(FC) and Combined Chlorine (CC). It is one of the tests in the TF100 kit. Here is a video on how to do the test. The other tests you'll need to run are the CYA and the pH test. Here's the CYA test video and here's the pH test video. You'll notice the pH test also has a different kind of chlorine test; you can ignore this one for now. Once you get these tests performed you can easily keep your pool perfect in almost all cases. Please post your results here and you'll get quick response on what to do next.

I hope this is helpful.

Chris

 

[Leebo]

At under 5,000 gallons it maybe easiest to drain it and start “fresh” rather than preforming a SLAM. How much is water there?

 

[setsailsoon]

Here are our guidelines for seasonal smaller pools. As Lee mentioned above, this may be an easier approach for you.

Chris

 

[Leesha77]

I have a mild case of Aspergers, so I understand being neurodivergent. Rather than thinking of a test kit as a unit unto itself, think of it as a set of individual tests that can be performed independently of each other.

The only test you have to worry about right now is the CYA test, so that you know how much chlorine you need to add using the FC/CYA Levels.

After that, use the FAS-DPD test to determine how much chlorine you have already. Add chlorine as required to bring it up to the level recommended on the chart, if necessary.

If your CYA is above 50, you'll need to drain and replace some water, enough to bring it down to 40 or so.

It's easy once you realize you don't have to run all the tests, and which ones are important for maintaining your pool. You will want to run a suite of tests, namely

Free chlorine FC
Combined chloramines CC
pH
Cyanuric acid CYA
Total alkalinity TA
Calcium hardness CH

once a week, just to get a full picture of how your pool is doing, but don't worry about that now. All you're concerned with at the moment is CYA and FC.

Hope this helped!

That is really helpful. Sometimes I need people to just break it down into smaller steps for me. Thank you!

 

[Leesha77]

OMG YES !!!! The laminated instruction card looks like rocket science at first glance with 50 steps. But it’s several tests with a handful of the stupid easiest steps you can imagine each.

‘Fill vial to 10 ML’. Ok…. I can do that.
‘add scoop of XXX powder’. OOO-K ? Still easy
‘Add YYY drops and count how many’. Wow easy !!!

*move onto next test which is just as stupid easy*.

I recommend that at first you read the instructions for the specific test you want and gather those 2 or 3 bottles out of the kit and have them ready. Then just follow one silly step at a time. Once you’ve tested a handful of times it will be second nature and you will sling bottles and vials like no tomorrow.

Anywho it’s a very much needed small investment to be able to stay out of the expensive pool store. The kit lasts 2 years and if you think it through $50 a season to stop $250 trips to the pool store twice a month is worth every penny. Especially for those on a tight budget. Your other option with a smaller pool is to do your best and drain when it gets away from you; but those re-balancing chems will add up to more than the cost of the test kit in the long run.

keep us posted.

Thank you! I love how you broke this down. Yes, I can do the thing!!!!

 

[Leesha77]

I am ordering this. Which of the extras should I get? As I want to get going and will have to wait for shipping, I took my lunch break to take a sample to the pool store (had never been there before, and please know that I did this only to be able to be proactive right now as I wait for the kit above to come. I did not buy any of their products though).

Here are the results from their tests (now I know why a pool testing kit is so important, the test strips are COMPLETELY inaccurate):

pH: 7.1
TA: 157
Calcium hardness: 149
Optimizer: 1
Free chlorine: 0.5
TC: 1.3
CYA: 98
Phosphate: 3000 (!!!!!!?????? WTH?)

Thanks all for your support. Would love advice on how to proceed as well as which add-ons I need to the test kit before I order it.

 

[AK-]

Try this instead of the reference card: TF-100 kit quick reference guide testing instructions

 

[Leesha77]

Welcome to TFP. Our methods are based on science and having accurate measurements of the pool water chemistry.

You have a choice...

Invest in a proper test kit so you can accurately maintain your pool water. Like the TF-100 Test Kit ™ or the Taylor K-2006C. They are not fancy, they are just accurate unlike your test strips.

Or drain your pool and refill it with fresh water when you lose control of the water chemistry.

You can decide which is more economical for you.

I suggest you read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and Pool School - Trouble Free Pool

Which additional tests should I order?

 

[Newdude]

The smart stir / speed stir is a necessity for anyone who has used one. Every last one of us would run out and replace it if it broke. Not wait a week until it was convenient, but today. Right now. Lol.

The sample sizer is nice because it takes some work away, you dip it in the vial and BOOM, it’s 10ml left. But pouring drops to 10ml is easy enough for most of us. You really can’t go wrong either way, it’s up to you.

The PH tester is a neat toy for the techie geeks. I respect it, and them. Not a necessity tho.

The salt stuffs don’t apply to you.

 

[Newdude]

Ooooh. I will recommend the XL kit. Newbs take a few tries to get it right and trail/error and all that. Plus, with troubles to clear you will test often and blow through the regular supplies so the XL helps there too.

 

[AK-]

Speed stir is like car with heated seats or heated driving wheel... you don't really need until you had a car with it...

The XL option is very good. But depends on how much you are going to be testing and how are you keeping reagents.

 

[Leesha77]

The smart stir / speed stir is a necessity for anyone who has used one. Every last one of us would run out and replace it if it broke. Not wait a week until it was convenient, but today. Right now. Lol.

The sample sizer is nice because it takes some work away, you dip it in the vial and BOOM, it’s 10ml left. But pouring drops to 10ml is easy enough for most of us. You really can’t go wrong either way, it’s up to you.

The PH tester is a neat toy for the techie geeks. I respect it, and them. Not a necessity tho.

The salt stuffs don’t apply to you.

Thank you so much! Payday tomorrow and it's a done deal!

 

[Leesha77]

Previously posted. Have the water chemistry test kit on the way. Attached are the results.

Doing SLAM as recommended by this group. Did a partial empty and added new water before this because of the phosphate issue.

3 hours in and TC has not raised.

Full brush and vacuum of the pool is planned for tomorrow.

Current chem levels:

ph 7.1
Alkalinity 157
Calcium hardness 149
Free chlorine 0.5
Total chlorine 1.3
CYA 98
Phosphate over 3000


Doing SLAM with recommend bleach from this group. Emptied some water and filled with fresh water beforehand which shames me because of the drought.

4800 gallon above ground pool, two filters running each at a rate of 1,000 gallons an hour. They have been running 24/7.

A gallon of bleach was poured in 3 hours ago. Used bleach consistent with this groups recs (no thickened or scented bleach, etc).

What am I missing?

 

[Leesha77]

Error: Free chlorine hasn't raised. TC has.