We just realized the cover to our main drain at the bottom of our fiberglass pool is missing, so there is just an open hole there. So we need to drain the pool. It’s a relatively small pool, but we are afraid it’s going to “pop out”. I heard that you should wait till the temperature is below 85 degrees to attempt to drain your pool. It’s 110 degrees where we are. Can we wait several months to fix the drain?
Main Drain Cover Missing
- Thread starter Jcarr
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,890
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Welcome to TFP! 
Its not so much the hot weather (which we certainly have right now) as it is your water table underneath. When the water table rises, that's a huge risk. Is there any way to contact the manufacture of that pool to inquire about a replacement cover? If not, I would think there may be an aftermarket cover that can be attached without completely draining. @jimmythegreek do you know of any such methods or covers?
Its not so much the hot weather (which we certainly have right now) as it is your water table underneath. When the water table rises, that's a huge risk. Is there any way to contact the manufacture of that pool to inquire about a replacement cover? If not, I would think there may be an aftermarket cover that can be attached without completely draining. @jimmythegreek do you know of any such methods or covers?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,596
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Welcome to the forum!
From a safety standpoint, that main drain most likely should be plugged and abandoned. It appears to not be VGBA (Virginia Graeme Baker Act) compliant. Unless there is a surface SVRS (Safety Vacuum Release System) in place.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
From a safety standpoint, that main drain most likely should be plugged and abandoned. It appears to not be VGBA (Virginia Graeme Baker Act) compliant. Unless there is a surface SVRS (Safety Vacuum Release System) in place.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
Take a piece of tyvek or similar material and a graphite pencil. Dive with a mask amd make a template of where the holes are like you would when you were a kid and silkscreened coins. Then measure amd look online at replacement lids. No need to drain pool for this repair
I had a pool guy come over and he went in and he said he had a universal cover he could put in it (it’s like $60-$65 plus tax), but needs to drain the pool to use a drill to put the screws.
I would be afraid to plug it, because 1. I don’t what it is used for, so I don’t know if it is necessary to have one 2. I have no idea HOW to plug it and 3. I’m afraid the next pool guy is going to tell me to drain the pool
I have no idea who the manufacturer is. The pool was put in BEFORE I had moved in (which was literally about 30 years ago)’Welcome to TFP!
I had a pool guy come over and he went in and he said he had a universal cover he could put in it (it’s like $60-$65 plus tax), but needs to drain the pool to use a drill to put the screws.
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,189
- Pool Size
- 25000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
If you can't find a pool service that will do it without draining, worst case you can get a diver to do it the way Jimmy recommended. Look around in the Kemah area for a boat diver or inquire at a dive shop close to you. They do underwater work on boats for a living. This would be a piece of cake for them. I'd way rather pay for a diver than risk draining damage.
I hope this helps.
Chris
I hope this helps.
Chris
Even easier.....grab an air compressor a d a harbor freight pneumatic drill. You can drill underwater with them I do it often. You can use a piece of tubing for a makeshift snorkel....ask me how I know lol