Hey all, I've noticed that my ~13,500 gallon outdoor pool is reading low chlorine even though the pump is running 9 hours a day and the AquaRite SWCG is at 100%. It's a t-3 cell which has worked well since I bought the home three years ago. The prior owner put it in sometime before that, so we're going on at least the 4th year of its existence. I do check it every three months per manufacturer's recommendation and use the diluted muriatic acid to reduce buildup. But I read in the TFP Pool School material that these things have a lifespan of 3-5 years, so based on all this, does it seem like it's time to replace? Any other tips or thoughts I should check to diagnose and determine if it's really a SWCG problem? The pool is in NE Florida and water temp is now mid-high 70s most days. I appreciate any thoughts or insights. Thanks!
Low Chlorine Even Though SWCG is at 100%
- Thread starter Jeff_S
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,861
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Your T-3 cell is too small for your pool.
9 hours running at 100% will give you 1.6 ppm of FC per day while average FC consumption is 3-4 ppm/day.
Run your pump 24/7 and you can generate 4.2 ppm/day. So run your pump a lot longer to get the chlorine you need.
When you burn up this cell replace it with a T-15 cell.
What is your CYA level?
What is your salt level.
Do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
What are the diagnostic readings?
9 hours running at 100% will give you 1.6 ppm of FC per day while average FC consumption is 3-4 ppm/day.
Run your pump 24/7 and you can generate 4.2 ppm/day. So run your pump a lot longer to get the chlorine you need.
When you burn up this cell replace it with a T-15 cell.
What is your CYA level?
What is your salt level.
Do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
What are the diagnostic readings?
Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:
- Default salt display
- Pool temp
- Cell Voltage
- Cell current
- Desired output (% of the knob)
- Instant salinity
- Product name. (AL-5 This is used with Jandy automation).
- Software revision (r.XX)
- Cell type
Thanks Alan. This cell always performed well in the past for this pool, but I've read how using a cell for higher volume can work better and likely make the cell last longer, so I may do that. My current readings from the AquaRite are:
3000 default salt
74°F
28.4 volts
2.33 current
100%
-2800 instant salinity
AL-1
r.1.59 version
t-3 cll type
I'll try the overnight chorine test as you suggest to see if I have an algae problem, and I will set the pump to run longer. But given how this does seem to be a change from my prior experience, I'm guessing the t-cell is just nearing its EOL. I appreciate your help!
3000 default salt
74°F
28.4 volts
2.33 current
100%
-2800 instant salinity
AL-1
r.1.59 version
t-3 cll type
I'll try the overnight chorine test as you suggest to see if I have an algae problem, and I will set the pump to run longer. But given how this does seem to be a change from my prior experience, I'm guessing the t-cell is just nearing its EOL. I appreciate your help!
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,861
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Do you have a K-1766 Taylor Salt Test to measure your actual salt level?
Is your control box an Aquarite or Naturesoft? AL-1 is Naturesoft, AL-0 is Aquarite.
www.troublefreepool.com
Is your control box an Aquarite or Naturesoft? AL-1 is Naturesoft, AL-0 is Aquarite.
Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
For salt testing, I use a device from my wife's salt water aquarium but it's usually pretty close to what the control box is saying. As to AquaRite vs Naturesoft, the box itself says Hayward SwimPure+ but the manuals and everything I got when I moved into the house all say AquaRite, so I don't really know the difference. Is there one?
If you replace it, know that acid washing it reduces its lifespan each time you do it. So don’t do it unless there’s calcium scale caked up inside it. I’ve never acid washed mine.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,861
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You should get the K-1766 Salt Test. That is the only test that is accurate.
The control box is known to not be accurate since it does not even have a salt sensor in it. So comparing the aquarium tester to a known inaccurate reading is meaningless.
I let the pump run all night last night and indeed the chlorine level was quite high this morning, so now I know I can just jigger the run time for the pump to keep things in good shape for the moment. I hadn't heard that acid washing the generator would decrease its effectiveness...why would the manufacturer recommend this. Oh wait...to sell replacements of course! Well, nothing lasts forever. Now that I've got a good chlorine level I'll do the overnight test tonight to see if I have a hidden algae problem as well. Thanks to all for your help in my continued education.
TexEdmond
Gold Supporter
- Jun 16, 2021
- 661
- Pool Size
- 25500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I noticed my SWG wasn't keeping up quite as well now that the pool is heating up and more sunlight on the pool. Turns out my CYA level had dropped slightly. Make sure to test that and adjust accordingly, it'll reduce the load on your SWG.
Thanks Tex. I had the same thought the other day...before I buy anything expensive, let's just have the water tested, so I went to my local Pinch-a-Penny and sure enough my CYA had dropped to 20 PPM. My little inexpensive test kit doesn't include this one...lesson learned. I brought the CYA back up and since then things have been fine. And I've sprung the $80 to get the Taylor K-2006 so I can get better readings on all my levels.
Thanks again to all for helping!
Thanks again to all for helping!