Looking for recommendations to replace Pentair IC40 system

[peterl1365]

Still troubleshooting, but it appears that my IC40 is failing again. This cell has only been installed for two years, but all of a sudden it can't keep up.
I'm tired of the frequent failures and high replacement costs. I've never had a cell last longer than 3 years.

Does anyone have recommendations for something that might be more reliable and/or less expensive to maintain? Ideally, I'd prefer something that does not require any replumbing. I don't mind having to install a new power center, presuming I can just jumper it into my existing EasyTouch system somehow.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Peter,

While the cell could be bad, most IC40's last 5 to 7 years. I had one that made it to 9 years.

Cells don't tend to "not keep up".. They either work or they don't work.

The most likely cause of your problem is you have algae, even if you can't see it yet.

Tell us a few things..

What is your current test data.

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt

How long do you normally run the cell each day and at what output % Where do you try to keep your FC?

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[peterl1365]

Thanks Jim. I haven't had time to really dig into it just yet. I just noticed about 5-6 weeks ago that my chlorine levels were reading very close to zero when I checked it on the weekend. Typically, I keep it in the 4-7 ppm range. 9 days ago, the FC was around 3, and I added about ~16 oz of liquid chlorine.

Don't have the current data in front of me, as I didn't get a chance to test this weekend. I normally only worry about the FC and pH. I add acid every 1-2 weeks to keep the pH in the 7.5-7.7 range. CH is a little bit high, around 400-600 ppm, if I recall. 3 weeks ago, I did add more CYA to bring it up to ~80 ppm, as the pool store measurement had it at around 40. TA is kind of volatile, depending on when I add acid, but it is in the 80-100 range.

The IC40 is set to about 60%, and I generally ramp up the pump times through the spring and early summer to effectively increase the chlorine output. Historically, for this time of year, 60% is more than sufficient, especially since we don't use the pool as much as when my kids were younger.

Anyway, this morning my wife noticed some algae spots after we returned from a weekend trip.

My question was mostly for planning ahead. The cell is probably working, but it's also nearing the point where I wouldn't be surprised if it just suddenly stopped working again. I've only had one cell (out of about 4 or 5) last beyond 2 years, and I had to replace the flow switch a couple of times on that one.

 

[peterl1365]

Thanks Jim. I haven't had time to really dig into it just yet. I just noticed about 5-6 weeks ago that my chlorine levels were reading very close to zero when I checked it on the weekend. Typically, I keep it in the 4-7 ppm range. 9 days ago, the FC was around 3, and I added about ~16 oz of liquid chlorine.

Don't have the current data in front of me, as I didn't get a chance to test this weekend. I normally only worry about the FC and pH. I add acid every 1-2 weeks to keep the pH in the 7.5-7.7 range. CH is a little bit high, around 400-600 ppm, if I recall. 3 weeks ago, I did add more CYA to bring it up to ~80 ppm, as the pool store measurement had it at around 40. TA is kind of volatile, depending on when I add acid, but it is in the 80-100 range.

The IC40 is set to about 60%, and I generally ramp up the pump times through the spring and early summer to effectively increase the chlorine output. Historically, for this time of year, 60% is more than sufficient, especially since we don't use the pool as much as when my kids were younger.

Anyway, this morning my wife noticed some algae spots after we returned from a weekend trip.

My question was mostly for planning ahead. The cell is probably working, but it's also nearing the point where I wouldn't be surprised if it just suddenly stopped working again. I've only had one cell (out of about 4 or 5) last beyond 2 years, and I had to replace the flow switch a couple of times on that one.

Just updating this thread in case anyone might be interested.

It seems that the root cause of my problem may be a small leak somewhere on the intake side of the pump. I have a VS pump, and at low speeds, I noticed some small bubbles coming out of the pool jets. This normally indicates chlorine production. However, after playing around with the SWG settings a bit, I saw that the bubbles were still present even after the SWG was unplugged. I think I may have been losing prime during the overnight non-operating hours. The problems were being masked because I generally maintain the pool on weekends, and the first thing I normally do is turn the pump on high-speed so that I can add acid. I suspect that what was happening is that after a few hours of low-speed flow, the flow rate may have dropped enough that the flow switch would turn off, thereby halting chlorine production.

I don't know of a good way to find the leak. I changed the valve actuator that I have at the inlet of my pump ( I use that valve to switch between the normal weir and the vacuum cleaner). I forcefully submerged the vacuum hoses to rule out bad connections. Anything beyond those two potential causes would probably require a leak-detection service or some significant plumbing repair.

Anyway, I have found a workaround. I basically redid all my schedules to force my pump to operate at high speed for about 30-60 minutes immediately BEFORE operating the vacuum or switching to low-speed filtering. I was already running on high for an hour each day for surface skimming purposes, so I just had to shuffle the timing around. The high speed operation is sufficient to reprime the system and let the pump run properly the rest of the day.

It's been running like this for about 3 weeks, now, and my chlorine levels have remained stable, despite some very hot temperatures in California this past week. Hopefully, the leak doesn't get any worse and this workaround will be effective indefinitely.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Peter,

Certainly, better than having to buy a new salt cell...

You have a big cartridge filter, so most likely not an issue, but when was the last time you cleaned it? I also have the CCP-520 and have noticed at low speeds, as the filter gets dirtier, the air bubble under the lid gets bigger.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Chuckiechan]

Still troubleshooting, but it appears that my IC40 is failing again. This cell has only been installed for two years, but all of a sudden it can't keep up.
I'm tired of the frequent failures and high replacement costs. I've never had a cell last longer than 3 years.

Does anyone have recommendations for something that might be more reliable and/or less expensive to maintain? Ideally, I'd prefer something that does not require any replumbing. I don't mind having to install a new power center, presuming I can just jumper it into my existing EasyTouch system somehow.

Have you considered sending it in for repair? You have some warranty that should work for you. My UL 40 Circupool cost me around $300 with shipping to and from.

BTW, you can test the bubbles with a barbecue lighter. Hydrogen bubbles go snap, crackle, pop - just don't try to concentrate or collect the hydrogen gas. That is very dangerous.

 

[peterl1365]

Peter,

Certainly, better than having to buy a new salt cell...

You have a big cartridge filter, so most likely not an issue, but when was the last time you cleaned it? I also have the CCP-520 and have noticed at low speeds, as the filter gets dirtier, the air bubble under the lid gets bigger.

Thanks,

Jim R.

I usually only have to clean it once a year. I typically do that in late November after the annual Santa Ana winds in California. Those winds tend to blow a lot of dust and debris into the pool. Once a year might seem insufficient, but my pressure rise barely changes from clean to dirty. Might be because of the filter size, or maybe because of the VS pump. Last I checked, the pressure was around 9 psi at my "high" speed which I only use for skimming, and 3-4 psi on low speed filtration.

FWIW, I've been following this pattern for probably a dozen years now.

 

[peterl1365]

Have you considered sending it in for repair? You have some warranty that should work for you. My UL 40 Circupool cost me around $300 with shipping to and from.

BTW, you can test the bubbles with a barbecue lighter. Hydrogen bubbles go snap, crackle, pop - just don't try to concentrate or collect the hydrogen gas. That is very dangerous.

As far as I remember, the warranty on cells is only 12 months. Fortunately, it appears that the cell is still functioning properly.

That's interesting about the hydrogen. I might have to play with that a bit.