Looking at installing a RJ-45+

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ButchW

Active member
Mar 22, 2022
26
Severna Park, Maryland
Pool Size
19900
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I'm looking at the rj-45+ for My 20k pool. I'm moving into the house at the end of June and having the liner replaced. I think im going to have to buy the vertical installation kit? also i would like to add a pool pump timer(wifi) out there as well to run everything. Looking for advice on the installing a pump timer and making sure i looking at the plumbing right on the filter fort the SWG. Heres picture of what im working with. Im going to make it look better once i'm living there. Any advice is welcome. This is my first time owning a pool as well.
 

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I did notice i had options, just wanted to make sure i wasnt missing anything. i really want to redo that whole area once im in there with a cement pad and run the electric a litte better as well. But i guess one step at a time.
 
Are you planning to plumb the SWG before the two return lines?

It looks like your pump is plugged into 120 volts, is that correct? What type of wifi timer are you considering? What is the pump HP? What is max load (amps) on the motor plate?
 
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Yes I was looking to plumb the swg vertical before the 2 returns. I should do that way right? 3/4 hp motor from what i can tell. Im not sure if its 120v or 240v. Can we tell by the motor name plate? Im looking at the dewenwils pool timer wifi. Photo below. not sure what max load. @Rancho Cost-a-Lotta
 

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ButchW said:
Yes I was looking to plumb the swg vertical before the 2 returns.
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Yes, but doing that might be a challenge. Looks like you could install the flow switch on the horizontal off the filter, install the SWG where the current ball valve is and add a diverter valve below the SWG to connect to the second line. Where do the two lines go?

Is the pump currently controlled by a timer or switch? Got any photos of the load center/breaker box?

The pump label shows the AMPS field (11.0 @ 115v/5.5 @230v) about five lines under "Century." that leaves you with plenty of switches/devices with a 15 or greater amp rating.

How do you plan to control pump scheduling; only the app, Alexa, Google Home/Assistant, Smart Things? Do you have any other smart devices (switches/plugs/outlets) you use with an app?

I bought the Dewenwils box 4 years ago when it was marketed as the Wion 50054. It's works well, but set up was a bit challenging and the app is a bit clunky. Since I use Alexa as a controller, I don't mess with the app.

Here is another option with a better app. They likely use the same or similar overseas components.

 
I'm Currently not living in the house. I move in at the end of June. The pump is just plugged into a electrical socket right out. There are 2 electrical sockets and a switch ran out to that area. 1 socket has nothing plugged in and I'm not sure if the switch is to turn all the electric on or if it's for the pool light. There is no timer installed as of right now that I know how. I think all of this was install Into a breaker in the house and then ran electric to the plugs outside. I can double check next time I go over. I will be running smart things in my house. I'm looking for the eaiser timer to install this year so I can get it up and running and once I move in I can sort everything out. Would a plug style timer with dual plugs work to start maybe? Link at bottom. Any ideas? I like your idea of how to install the SWG and flow switch. Didnt even think of that. I think I'll do it that way and redo all the plumbing right there. My best guess is both returns go to jets. I notice 4 jets at the shallow end of the pool.

Outdoor Smart Plug, Etekcity Outdoor WiFi Outlet with 2 Sockets, Works with Alexa & Google Home, Wireless Remote Control, Energy Monitoring & Timer Function, Waterproof, FCC and ETL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JB5TQSG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_M96RN3PQJKW3ZE1Z85XY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
 
I would keep looking at options and finalize plans when you have hands on access to the property. The type of plug you linked will work, but I have no experience with it. My advice is once you pick choose a brand of smart plug/outlet/switch, stick with is as you build you your smart home. It's so much easier to work off one app. I have tried several and my favorite is KASA TP-link. I have at least 20 of these devices. They offer many different components, have the best reception I've run across, LAN control when you lose internet connection, a solid easy-to-use app and good integration with smart home platforms.

I installed an RJ-45 last season and it's performing great. Too soon to comment on longevity. I control programming with simple $14 Sonoff switch. Real simple to wire, two wires in from the controller and two wires out the the cell. Check out this post...

Low Budget DIY Automation

When we built the pool, I decided against full automation for a variety of reasons including cost, the proprietary nature of available devices, and the fear an expensive system would quickly become obsolete and unsupported. I've seen a few forums members using Raspberry PI and Arduino...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
I agree. It's hard trying to figure things out with out having my hands on all the pieces. I was looking at that plug style switch because it's cheap and to get me started. Once I get the pool up and running. I would then look at moving over to something more permanent. I was mainly looks for ideas for everything right now. And I like your idea on how to install the SWG. This is also my first time owning a pool so I have alot to Learn. I run my current house on smart things. So I will use that since I already owe it and then run my hosue and pool with that once setup. So I'll look for a pool wifi timer that's compatible with that. Didnt think about that truthfully until you said something. If you have any more ideas throw them my way. I'm all ears
 
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ButchW said:
I'm looking at the rj-45+ for My 20k pool. I'm moving into the house at the end of June and having the liner replaced. I think im going to have to buy the vertical installation kit? also i would like to add a pool pump timer(wifi) out there as well to run everything. Looking for advice on the installing a pump timer and making sure i looking at the plumbing right on the filter fort the SWG. Heres picture of what im working with. Im going to make it look better once i'm living there. Any advice is welcome. This is my first time owning a pool as well.
Click to expand...
Install it horizontally, just 90 off the return, mount it horizontal then 90 back. Just make sure to support it. Also you don’t need a timer thr flow switch is all you need according to the manufacturer (but not the pool forum engineers)
 
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MA5177 said:
Also you don’t need a timer thr flow switch is all you need according to the manufacturer (but not the pool forum engineers)
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TFP does recommend connecting the SWG to a timer or relay to cut power to the SWG when the pump is off. This is consistent with most manufacturers' recommendations, including CircuPool. The flow switch should not be relied on as the primary safety device. Flow switches fail, as do timers and relays. Having two layers of protection to avoid damage and/or injury, regardless of manufacturers' recommendations, just makes sense.

Ultimately, it's your pool and you can do what you want with it. TFP will continue to recommend redundant safety devices for SWGs.
 
ButchW said:
I was looking at that plug style switch because it's cheap and to get me started. Once I get the pool up and running. I would then look at moving over to something more permanent.
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Your choice. Wouldn't be mine:

Explosion near the SWG

We were watching TV and heard a major explosion after exploring in the backyard I went into my pool equipment should and found about a 16 in PVC pipe shredded 8in on one side 8in on the other side of where my SWG Is located. I have no Idea what to think. It appears the SWG somehow was not...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
TFP does recommend connecting the SWG to a timer or relay to cut power to the SWG when the pump is off. This is consistent with most manufacturers' recommendations, including CircuPool. The flow switch should not be relied on as the primary safety device. Flow switches fail, as do timers and relays. Having two layers of protection to avoid damage and/or injury, regardless of manufacturers' recommendations, just makes sense.

Ultimately, it's your pool and you can do what you want with it. TFP will continue to recommend redundant safety devices for SWGs.
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Have you ever actually talked to circupool about this? I have several times and they assured me that the flow switch is sufficient

The most recent failure (explosion) I saw on here was because someone bypassed the flow switch and just used a timer( I know that is not what is being recommended) and the timer went on before the pump.

If I didn’t have a VSP I would hook it to a timer but since I don’t I’m following the manufacturer’s recommendation
 
MA5177 said:
The most recent failure (explosion) I saw on here was because someone bypassed the flow switch and just used a timer( I know that is not what is being recommended) and the timer went on before the pump.

If I didn’t have a VSP I would hook it to a timer but since I don’t I’m following the manufacturer’s recommendation
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Here's a quote from more recent thread on a flow switch failure:
JT2700 said:
Recently, the flow sensor on my SWG failed, causing the salt cell to receive current, even though no water was flowing. Consequently, smoke (or was it hydrogen gas??) started coming from the union on one side of the salt cell. Luckily, I was present, so I cut power quickly.
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Across model lines, Circupool provides conflicting recommendations regarding connection to the power source. Here are a few examples of excerpts from owners manuals:

RJ Series Manual:
  • Ensure that the chlorinator operates only when the circulation pump is operating. When installed with a pool equipment timer or control system, wire the Control Module (wall unit) to the load side of the timer clock or control relay.
  • For use with Variable Speed Pumps: When used with variable-speed or other electronically controlled pumps, you may wish to wire the Control Module directly to your power source. This will allow the pump to determine when the Cell is energized or dormant by activation of the Flow Switch.
SJ Series:
  • Ensure that the chlorinator operates only when the circulation pump is operating. When installed with a pool equipment timer or control system, wire the Control Module (wall unit) to the load side of the timer clock or control relay.
  • For use with Variable Speed Pumps: When used with variable-speed or other electronically controlled pumps, use a timer to coordinate SJ run time with full-flow pump operation.
I can't tell you why CP is making conflicting recommendations for connection to VS pumps. Maybe they believe the RJ Series flow switch is constructed so robustly that it can never fail. But, why would it matter if the module was connected to a VS or single-speed pump? Each type either creates flow and closes the switch or stops flow and opens the switch. IMHO, they're creating a dangerous condition by allowing customers to rely on a flow switch as the primary safety device. Based on the recommendations provided elsewhere by CP, it can easily be shown that CP knew or reasonably should have know the dangers and risks associated with flow switch failure.

MA5177 said:
Also you don’t need a timer thr flow switch is all you need according to the manufacturer (but not the pool forum engineers)
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This advice is not relevant to the OP as he is utilizing the device with a single-speed pump.

As I mentioned before, it's your pool and you can do what you want.
 
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MA5177 said:
Also you don’t need a timer thr flow switch is all you need according to the manufacturer (but not the pool forum engineers)
Click to expand...
When the flow switch fails in a closed position, you might change your mind. ^^This is an Appeal to Authority, which is a typical logical fallacy.
 
Here's another flow switch failure posted a few hours after my post above. We're not making this up. Post #45...

Small white flakes always

I think you can do it. Try to work the TA down to the 50 to 60 range through aeration and pH additions. any suggestions for aeration? The aeriation just raises the PH allowing more acid be used again to lower TA more right?
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
Here's another flow switch failure posted a few hours after my post above. We're not making this up. Post #45...

Small white flakes always

I think you can do it. Try to work the TA down to the 50 to 60 range through aeration and pH additions. any suggestions for aeration? The aeriation just raises the PH allowing more acid be used again to lower TA more right?
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
Where is the failure?
 
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Post #45:
Uhhello said:
Softner piped into fill line this morning.
Cell issues last night. A couple months ago I luckily heard the water boiling basically late at night sitting on the patio when pump was off and saw the cell was generating still. Took switch out and it had no debris in it. Unplugged connection and reinstalled. Still generating with no flow. Replaced switch and everything was working fine. Last night I switched the cell off when i was running the pump longer to move acid around. I went out prior to bed and turned pump off and switch back on. No flow but cell was generating. Turned pump on and off and that stopped the generation. Wondering if switch is going bad again or there are control panel issues? Will keep an eye on it.
Click to expand...
 

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