Long time lurker looking for some help.

Mar 22, 2017
21
McKinney
Hey everyone, I have been reading trouble free pool for the past year and I am very appreciative for everyhting I have learned. We began building a very small 5000 gallon in ground gunnite pool around Thanksgiving. I work in a very demanding segment of the construction industry and working with a builder has been very painful for us. Lots of tearing things out and redoing them. We also found that very few trades are used to building a moderb looking simple pool. Anyhow we are finally nearing completion and I had a few questions I was hoping the community could help with.

  • I fired the pb electricians and did the electrical myself due to quality issues and I am on the last step which is controls wiring. I have two heaters, an aquacal sq-120r and a jandy jxi 400k btu natural gas heater. Both will be connected to a jandy Aqualink. I have read both the aqualink and aquacal manuals but I am still unsure of the control wire connection points. I have included picture below. Is the jandy manual correct? What is the best way to do this?
  • The Pool builder did a poor job of plumbing the pad efficiently. We have an ozonator and an infloor cleaning system, but right now the onzonator only feeds the wall returns. I would imagine this should ideally also hit my in floor cleaning system. What have others done here? Will the O3 with an mdv wear out the infloor parts?
  • I have read really poor opinions of chemical controllers that rely on orp and ph. What about the more expensive commercial systems that use chlorine sensors instead of orp? I haven’t heard much opinion on those. I included a picture of a system I am considering from georg fischer. I will probably tear out all the pad plumbing as soon as the builder leaves. T-minus 10 days.

I would love any insight. Thank you in advance.
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not sure on Jandy equip, maybe others will chime in.....the 400k is overkill but you may want sauna hot faaaaast or be in cold climates the heat pump is always good idea. Ive seen where 2 heaters are used and 1 spot only open on automation the other unit is a set and forget setup w a standard temp, If you do this the heatpump is prob much cheaper to run.

all you need is the SWG the ozone is a gimmick once u get your levels setup its easy to keep it going all year with a simply test here and there
 
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