Liquidator alternative

[H-12 1/2 Mike]

After the chasing a cavitation issue for the last couple of days and initially blaming it on the use of the skimmer sock, the cause of the problem literally slapped me in the face. The problem was the fittings on the outlet side of the Hasa liquidator that were leaking. The pump happened to shut down and the blowback forced water to spray out of those fittings. The Liquidator served me well for over a year, but after witnessing the weaknesses of the design it is time to upgrade.
Other than adding the chlorine by hand, what it the best proven method for dosing the chlorine? I currently run my pump for 21 hours at 1500 rpm and 3 hours at 3000 rpm.

 

[mknauss]

Excluding a rebuild of your liquid chlorine system, the best method to add chlorine is a SWCG.

You have an Intelliflo pump. Do you have automation?

 

[H-12 1/2 Mike]

I do have the Aqualink system, but it is about 20 years old and still performing.

 

[mknauss]

Aqualink? With a Pentair Intelliflo? Does the Aqualink control that pump?

 

[H-12 1/2 Mike]

The Aqualink controls the time of operation of the pump, the pump controls the speed. I have the aqualink and intelliflo times synched together.

 

[zea3]

You could try a Stenner pump if you want to continue with liquid chlorine.

 

[cfherrman]

Stenner pump (used on here)

Lmi pump (used on here)

Dishwasher pump

Search "chemical pump" in search engine

 

[mknauss]

An Intelliflo should be direct wired to a breaker. It has an internal timer that you can schedule varying RPM's, if you like.

 

[H-12 1/2 Mike]

my intelliflo runs at 3000rpm for 3 hours and 1500 rpm for 21 hours.

- - - Updated - - -

I think I like the stenner idea now the task is to find the right installation design.

 

[laprjns]

The Liquidator served me well for over a year, but after witnessing the weaknesses of the design it is time to upgrade.

What weakness did you witness?. I leaking fitting? I've had my Liquidator for five years and never had a problem that was not fixed by either tightening it or changing out the tube, which should be a standard maintenance action anyway. I think your giving up on the Liquidator too soon.

 

[H-12 1/2 Mike]

The failure(s) occured in two areas: the check valve fitting and the level indicator. The level indicator had a stress crack on the outlet port and the check valve failed to prevent reverse flow, probably from the particulate which forms in the liquidator storage tank. Like I said, it performed flawlessly for over a year. It is a simple design at an attractive price point, but it is also the weak link attached to an expensive pump.

 

[tim5055]

I just have to ask, why do you run your pump 24 hours a day?

 

[H-12 1/2 Mike]

We have several trees and neigborhood cottonwoods which require constant skimming. My pool utilities cost less than $20 per month and we are extremely critical of our pool's appearance. So we run the pool 24/7.

 

[laprjns]

My flow indicator also cracked. A few years back someone on the forum claimed that there was a miss-match of threads between the flow indicator and the fittings provided which resulted in the cracks. I just took my out and no longer use the flow indicator. I also switched to a pinch valve to control flow. Works much better that the quarter turn valve that was provided. As for check valve getting stuck because of particulates, well there is going to maintenance with any system that you install. You should clean all the lines ( i just replace mine) and clean all the components using MA once a year. I get very little particulates (aka, White Stuff) because my alkalinity is low, around 60ppm, along with ph at around 7.6 and ch at 100.