Let Me Pull Up a Chair....

I am also one that runs FC Hot, I keep my CYA between 70 and 80 and keep FC at or above 7 at all times :)

Okay - Count me in, this make perfect sense.

Now, to chart the performance of my SWG and calculate the trajectory of my FC - To Infinity and beyond !!
 
Looking great!
I switched over from Baqucil to SWG at opening and had to relearn pool testing. Overwhelming at first but I was diligent with nightly testing after the sunset. I was able to dialin my SWG RJ30+ to around 30-40% running on a timer from 6am to 930pm for my 13,700 gallon pool with 3400-3500ppm salt. Since June 1st, I have only added 1-2 qts LC due to different situations. 1st time I noticed that 30% power was just a tad low, hovering around 3-4ppm and I let it go too long like that so I added 1qt LC to get me quickly back up. The other time was last month when the Mrs had famliy party and that night/next morning the water was a tad cloudy. I dumped another qt in and bumped from 35% up to 40% for a couple days to get back up around 5-6ppm FC and the water cleared right up.

I was still testing daily until a few weeks ago. Now I am only doing testing a couple days a week for chlorine and PH unless an active group of swimmers (before and after) or heavy rainfall. Keeping the SWG at 35%-40% seems to be the ideal spot. If I were to leave it for a week or two, I would probably put it at 40% the whole time.

I have been very pleased with the pool conversion this year, crystal clear and very comfortable water. Especially with all the help from this site and the SUPER DUPER WONDERFUL folks contributing their time and knowledge. I have yet to get a blank stare or a 'hmmmm.... thats odd, good luck with that" answer from this site.
 
I was able to dialin my SWG RJ30+ to around 30-40%
Yeah, that's the variable I'm trying to learn - what to set the RJ-45 to for 'normal' weeks. I'm still running high FC @ 10 from the initial dump of LC on day 1 and the SWG on 20% hope to balance that and also get my CYA number up this weekend.


with all the help from this site and the SUPER DUPER WONDERFUL folks contributing their time and knowledge
I've been blown away with the responses to just my hello - can't imagine what will happen if I post an actual problem :)

Thanks
 
Rotate your cell so the "bulge" is down. It will keep gas from creating a bubble inside your cell during slow flow operation. This is documented in your manual, if I remember at the bottom of page 15. Nice Install.
 
Does anyone know if that flow switch can be mounted in the downward position ? It could be problematic for some of them.
 
I missed that, it should probably be moved.. if the spring ever went out it may continue to work without water running... X marks the spot :)

Annotation 2021-08-13 094824.jpg
 
Rotate your cell so the "bulge" is down.
Copy that - will do.
Does anyone know if that flow switch can be mounted in the downward position ?

I took the install straight from the manual. Glad to know this may cause a problem - will cut it out and relocate per your suggestion.

Install.jpg



Thanks!!
 
Overthinking it, my opinion. If the spring goes out the switch will be nonfunctional in either configuration. Gravity, still water emerson and the plastics boyancy are all factors to be considered. Best practices would be to test the switch function by slowing pump flow manually over its life. It's a simple replacement for such an important safety component. My opinion.
 
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Overthinking it, my opinion
Very may well be, so thanks.
If the spring goes out it the switch will be nonfunctional in either configuration
In the downward position, gravity *may* cause the switch to close if the spring fails in a loose way as opposed to a seizes it open way. Here is easily where I may be overthinking it if that model is beefy enough. My IC60 was so flimsy I never would have trusted it on its own. But that’s my sample size of exactly *1* so I understand if this one is different.
 
Pool boy the reason we are even discussing this is that the flow switch is your fail safe in the event the timers get out of whack or whatever causes the SWG to run without the pump. If the flow switch can’t do its job, chlorine gas builds up and explodes. It won’t level the pad but it will utterly destroy the unit and possibly take out nearby equipment/people/pipes with shrapnel.

It’s a rare occurrence but still one that should be easily planned around.
 
It’s a rare occurrence but still one that should be easily planned around.

Good info - thanks. I do get your point of failsafe if the pump should fail or filter clog to reduce flow. That portion of the deck will be 'inside' once the Tiki bar is complete so I can't really afford a blown out cell and all of my pool water 'inside' as well :p
 
If the spring fails and the stiff plastic paddle's boyancy (emersed in still water) is overcome by gravity then the switch will fall to the close the circuit in both configurations. If someone has an old circupool flow switch please disable the spring, emerse the switch and see if the paddle floats or sinks under water.
 
f the spring fails and the stiff plastic paddle's boyancy (emersed in still water) is overcome by gravity then the switch will fall to the close the circuit in both configurations. If someone has an old circupool flow switch please disable the spring, emerse the switch and see if the paddle floats or sinks under water.
Ok Great. So the fail safe has its *own* fail safe. Yay. Mine did not and would clickety clack itself open/closed just while walking it out to the pad to reinstall it at the start of the season. Both of mine were flimsy at best and purchased 7 seasons apart so it wasn’t just one faulty unit.
 
Ok Great. So the fail safe has its *own* fail safe. Yay. Mine did not and would clickety clack itself open/closed just while walking it out to the pad to reinstall it at the start of the season. Both of mine were flimsy at best and purchased 7 seasons apart so it wasn’t just one faulty unit.
What was/is your switch paddle made of, is it metal? The one I have from CP is all plastic and does not move when handling the T and switch.
 
It was a lone thin metal flap inside the Pentair IC60 bent about 45 degrees outwards. And it was CHINTZY.
 
I do believe the cell can be in the downward position. some plumbing to be done but you could put the cell just below the 90 going down. Obviously you would need to measure to see it if would fit. Worst case, get a new T for where your booster is. Cut off as close to the edge of both sides of the T to preserve PVC to slide new T down onto the returns, and the flow switch down into the T . You could then gut enough above the flow switch to allow a schedule 40 coupler to fit with the section to the outbound side of the SWG coupler. Preserve those sections to keep good fittings. See crude re-draw of your picture...
 

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