+ 1 for the unintended pun.
I seem to remember it would work plenty fine with less plumbing to need cleaning, but I could easily be wrong here. The dishwasher is on my eventual list of things to do also, so I’ll defer to the pro when he gets here.
Leaving Spa unattended for 2 weeks?
- Thread starter dennislaughlin
- Start date
I seem to remember it would work plenty fine with less plumbing to need cleaning, but I could easily be wrong here. The dishwasher is on my eventual list of things to do also, so I’ll defer to the pro when he gets here.
@jseyfert3 I can’t find your purge thread again. 
Can you link it while we wait ? It’s the best example I know of as to what could be hiding in anyones tub.
Can you link it while we wait ? It’s the best example I know of as to what could be hiding in anyones tub.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,749
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Washing Machine/Dishwasher Bio Cleaner & Deodorizer (2 oz.)
Clean your hot tub and jetted bath’s plumbing and jets without manual scrubbing. Environmentally friendly, safe for septic systems & more. View product.
ahhsome.com
For Dishwashers and Washing Machines.
I got lots of advice about making sure things are clean.
Ozone eats FC. That could also be part of the reason.
If your CYA can take the hit, you can use a tablet in a floater. That is what I used to do with my pool pre-SWCG days
I plan on doing that in my hot tub (I have not been away for anything more than 3-4 days since I got the hot tub)
A month ago, I left my spa unattended for 2 weeks for the first time, and there was a non-zero chlorine reading when I came back (somewhere between 1-2ppm). Water was crystal clear with minimal chlorine demand upon my return. Here is what I did:
1) In the days prior to leaving, don't use the spa, leave it at normal operating temperatures (chlorine is more effective at higher temperatures), remove headrests, do a thorough cleaning of your filters including overnight soaking in cleaner solution (reinstall filters after), and unplug your ozonator if you can (ozonators consume chlorine, and good high-output ozonators like the Bullfrog EOS consume an enormous amount of chlorine).
2) Set pH to 7.2 (the lower the pH, the more effective the chlorine, but don't go below 7.2).
3) Once to twice a day, dose with liquid/pool chlorine to 10ppm FC with jets on low (high jets may cause chlorine loss to the air and pH increase via aeration). Each time you dose, you should need less and less chlorine to hit 10ppm - your chlorine demand aka CD should be lower and lower each day. Wipe above the waterline, the top ledges, and the underside of your spa cover with the superchlorinated water to kill off any bacteria hanging around. Check your pH, add acid as needed to keep it at 7.2. When your chlorine demand stabilizes at a low level, your spa is well sanitized/disinfected.
4) I can't easily unplug my ozonator, but I know that the Bullfrog ozonator only engages during heating and filtration cycles. Therefore, I set my heat to as low as it goes (since you're doing this in the winter, maybe set it a little higher if there is risk of power outage/spa failure), and I deleted all of the filtering cycles. The Bullfrog ozonator likely still runs during the automatic periodic temperature checks, no way to stop that without unplugging the ozonator. Figure out how your ozonator operates and disable it as much as you can.
5) Let the spa sit still for 1-2 days with a high dose of chlorine in the water. Now that there is no organic material anywhere in or near the water, and no ozone to eat up the chlorine, confirm your chlorine demand (CD) is still low. If not, you need to biofilm purge or otherwise clean the spa better, or get a friend to come over every second/third day to pour in some chlorine.
6) Minutes before you step out the front door to go on your 2 week trip, dose one last time with more chlorine, depending on your CD. If your daily CD is on the high side, then aim for a higher number like 15-20ppm FC. If your chlorine demand is low, shoot for at least 10-12ppm.
Assumptions:
* Spa was already thoroughly purged with Ahhsome (including drain line - open the drain, stick a hose nozzle into the drain port in the footwell and blast away) to eliminate chlorine-consuming biofilms on internal plumbing. Without a thorough biofilm purge, your CD will be higher than it should be.
* Cyanuric acid between 0 and 20ppm. Spas that don't see sunlight don't need any CYA. The higher the CYA, the less effective chlorine is at its job, which is to sanitize/disinfect. If above 20, you'll need to increase the 10ppm mentioned above to a higher level - use PoolMath calculator and look at the SHOCK number based on your CYA levels and other water measurements. If 40 or above, I'd drain half and refill to get closer to the 0-20 range to ensure high chlorine effectiveness.
1) In the days prior to leaving, don't use the spa, leave it at normal operating temperatures (chlorine is more effective at higher temperatures), remove headrests, do a thorough cleaning of your filters including overnight soaking in cleaner solution (reinstall filters after), and unplug your ozonator if you can (ozonators consume chlorine, and good high-output ozonators like the Bullfrog EOS consume an enormous amount of chlorine).
2) Set pH to 7.2 (the lower the pH, the more effective the chlorine, but don't go below 7.2).
3) Once to twice a day, dose with liquid/pool chlorine to 10ppm FC with jets on low (high jets may cause chlorine loss to the air and pH increase via aeration). Each time you dose, you should need less and less chlorine to hit 10ppm - your chlorine demand aka CD should be lower and lower each day. Wipe above the waterline, the top ledges, and the underside of your spa cover with the superchlorinated water to kill off any bacteria hanging around. Check your pH, add acid as needed to keep it at 7.2. When your chlorine demand stabilizes at a low level, your spa is well sanitized/disinfected.
4) I can't easily unplug my ozonator, but I know that the Bullfrog ozonator only engages during heating and filtration cycles. Therefore, I set my heat to as low as it goes (since you're doing this in the winter, maybe set it a little higher if there is risk of power outage/spa failure), and I deleted all of the filtering cycles. The Bullfrog ozonator likely still runs during the automatic periodic temperature checks, no way to stop that without unplugging the ozonator. Figure out how your ozonator operates and disable it as much as you can.
5) Let the spa sit still for 1-2 days with a high dose of chlorine in the water. Now that there is no organic material anywhere in or near the water, and no ozone to eat up the chlorine, confirm your chlorine demand (CD) is still low. If not, you need to biofilm purge or otherwise clean the spa better, or get a friend to come over every second/third day to pour in some chlorine.
6) Minutes before you step out the front door to go on your 2 week trip, dose one last time with more chlorine, depending on your CD. If your daily CD is on the high side, then aim for a higher number like 15-20ppm FC. If your chlorine demand is low, shoot for at least 10-12ppm.
Assumptions:
* Spa was already thoroughly purged with Ahhsome (including drain line - open the drain, stick a hose nozzle into the drain port in the footwell and blast away) to eliminate chlorine-consuming biofilms on internal plumbing. Without a thorough biofilm purge, your CD will be higher than it should be.
* Cyanuric acid between 0 and 20ppm. Spas that don't see sunlight don't need any CYA. The higher the CYA, the less effective chlorine is at its job, which is to sanitize/disinfect. If above 20, you'll need to increase the 10ppm mentioned above to a higher level - use PoolMath calculator and look at the SHOCK number based on your CYA levels and other water measurements. If 40 or above, I'd drain half and refill to get closer to the 0-20 range to ensure high chlorine effectiveness.
It will work in a dishwasher. Just pour 1/4-1/2 level teaspoon or so into the dishwasher bottom compartment where the spinner is located. Put dishwasher on short clean cycle with no dishes in it. The cleaner will clean somewhat where you can see and inspect but the real benefit is where you don’t see. Under the dishwasher in the basin is where gunk can build and clog the drain line. This is the cause for much of the foul odors some units have. The water doesn’t drain out fast enough and completely. After you run the cleaner and clarity in the appliance you should notice a difference.
Last edited:
Post in thread '26' Intex - Planning, Install, Upgrades, and Landscaping Thread'@jseyfert3 I can’t find your purge thread again.
26' Intex - Planning, Install, Upgrades, and Landscaping Thread
- Jun 7, 2017
- 9,179
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
I put some in the dishwasher and am running a regular cycle (2 hours). I left the dishwasher completely empty. My wife is concerned that the ahhsome is going to poison us, sigh....
I used what was smudged on the top that covers the ahhsome when it is new. Just smudged it on the dishwasher door. Not sure when/if I should open it and put more in. I was hesitant to put some in the detergent compartment in case it bubbles up. So far does not seem to be bubbling at all. Inside the dishwasher I am sure this will do well, not sure how effective it will be on the pipes due to very low contact time.
I used what was smudged on the top that covers the ahhsome when it is new. Just smudged it on the dishwasher door. Not sure when/if I should open it and put more in. I was hesitant to put some in the detergent compartment in case it bubbles up. So far does not seem to be bubbling at all. Inside the dishwasher I am sure this will do well, not sure how effective it will be on the pipes due to very low contact time.
I am really not following what you are asking. Reading your post I am assuming that you used the hot tub/jetted bath plumbing cleaner in yiur dishwasher. If this is what you did there is nothing that will harm the dishwasher or you. Bear in mind that the hot tub cleaner, although it will work ok for that appliance, does not have the detergency that is typically needed to thoriughly clean the dishwasher. It will work Ok. It will clean the drain line in the dishwasher sump so water evacuates fully and not puddle and emanate foul odors from food and waste.
you did good to NOT place the gel in the detergent compartment. Just pinching 1/4-1/2 teaspoon of the gel onto the dishwasher bottom, close the door and run on a short wash cycle is all you need to do. If yiur dishwasher incorporated a removable mesh screen filter you,should remove and clean that before you run any cleaning product through it for best results. The way you did it is fine. You only need to do this periodically and not very often.
you did good to NOT place the gel in the detergent compartment. Just pinching 1/4-1/2 teaspoon of the gel onto the dishwasher bottom, close the door and run on a short wash cycle is all you need to do. If yiur dishwasher incorporated a removable mesh screen filter you,should remove and clean that before you run any cleaning product through it for best results. The way you did it is fine. You only need to do this periodically and not very often.
- Jun 7, 2017
- 9,179
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
I was hoping that it cleaned the dishwasher drain hose out primarily. We get a foul odor when starting it and I had this for my jetted tub so figured I'd try it. My wife always worries about stuff like that I just laugh I never gave it a 2nd thought.
Gotcha PoolGate: So, now that you have performed the cleaning, have you noticed that the bio-fouling aroma has disappeared. Remember, after cleaning the dishwasher or washing machine with our cleaner, you MUST run a load , big or small, with your regular detergent to totally eliminate the smells. When you aggravate biofilm it can smell as it is exposed. So, run a load in the dishwasher with your regular pod of detergent on a hot water cycle. This should solve that issue. Let us know how it is. If you need additional help we are available with a phone call.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,934
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I don’t think it will “poison” y’all anymore than dishwasher detergent would already be doing. 
It all gets rinsed away. If you/she’s concerned just run another empty cycle.
It all gets rinsed away. If you/she’s concerned just run another empty cycle.
It's been a minute since I've been here. I came back to a perfectly clean hot tub. here's what I did beginning 2 days before our departure:
I will be purchasing @Ahhsomeguy hot tub cleaner, Aqua Clarity, and the dishwasher/HE washing machine cleaners right away. Looking forward to getting a perfectly clear tub!
- brought chlorine up to 10ppm
- reduced PH to 7.2
- lowered temp to 80 degrees - the lowest setting on my tub that isn't "off"
I will be purchasing @Ahhsomeguy hot tub cleaner, Aqua Clarity, and the dishwasher/HE washing machine cleaners right away. Looking forward to getting a perfectly clear tub!
Dennislaughlin: Thank you for the positive feedback On the Aqua Clarity weekly maintenance product. One major advantage of the Aqua Clarity is that you can leave the hot tub unattended for an extended time if you prep the tub for the 2 weeks. This product I constantly sweeping surfaces for gunk and organic build-up. It is also clarifying the water. When used with adequate sanitizer and proper pH and TA, water clarity will be absolutely polished and crystal clear. The products we make work. We don’t use hype or fancy marketing. Thanks again Dennis for your comments. They are appreciated.