Leaking Pentair pool light

Btw, to be clear I'm not looking for bubblegum. I want to install a brand new light and I don't want it to leak at the cord entry bushing like the old one did. I hope to find a way to over-seal that point properly.

Sent from my Z10 using Tapatalk

Duck tape then? Never underestimate the many millions of uses for good old metal grey colored duck tape.....

OK, just so that I'm clear here, you currently have a Pentair light niche with a waterproof grommet in the wire nut assembly and it leaks. Is that correct?
 
Oh, and let this be a reminder to you that this is why the mods and admins (I'm not a mod, I just play one on TV ....) warn against hijacking threads and not starting your own, it gets terribly confusing.

Perhaps the mod-gods will take pity on you and split this thread off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yeah and no, I have no grommet that I know of. Haven't looked at the niche and I did not install it so I expect I will know very soon.

Duct tape? Really?

Sent from my Z10 using Tapatalk

It was a joke. Actually duck tape is lousy for under-water applications.

Ok, so it would seem that if you really want to do this as you wish (a water tight seal) then your going to have drop the water level below the niche or, at the very least, below the level of the wiring nut and conduit. If your niche is a Pentair niche, then they may have the rubber grommet you need. As an added water proofing measure, you could add a dollop of the RTV sealant or some kind of waterproof silicone caulking on the wire nut grommet AFTER everything is in place. Then, refill the pool.

Honestly, I would think the rubber grommet would be enough asking as one is available for your niche.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Unless you are suggesting the grommet keeps actual light fixture dry? That is certainly not the case, without question. The sam light is spec'd to run only when submersed. Says right on the side of the light.

In which case I definitely see no value or purpose frankly, in the grommet.

Sent from my Z10 using Tapatalk
 
Unless you are suggesting the grommet keeps actual light fixture dry? That is certainly not the case, without question. The sam light is spec'd to run only when submersed. Says right on the side of the light.

In which case I definitely see no value or purpose frankly, in the grommet.

Sent from my Z10 using Tapatalk

No, that's not what I'm saying. I was confused by what you were asking.

You can not completely seal a light niche from the front. That is why they are called "wet niches". Also, pool lights are designed to work underwater for a reason - cooling.

Why would you ever want to make the niche waterproof?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
My 10 cents. I've been replacing pool lights for 35 years in Calif. And have never worried about sealing the cord at the niche outlet. The grommet there is a fairly new item, but a good one. There is no NEC code about that grommet as far as I know. Pool lights are designed to be fully WATER IMMERSED, outside and inside the niche, or they can explode from overheating. I simply change out the light without draining the pool. I've actually never know any pool man that did, at least not here in SoCal
 
I'm not a pro but had the pool for 10 years. I realize the light needs to be immersed. Totally agree.

I'm going to spend $500+ on a light and I want to do my best to ensure it will not leak, as it has for some. I want to apply an extra measure of sealant to the point where the cord enters the light housing. I'm looking for suggestions on the best sealant.

Sent from my Z10 using Tapatalk
 
You don't need to drain the pool to replace the light. The cord gromment coming into the spa niche opening is a fairly recent addition and not a requirement by the NEC If it was. About 90% of the pool and spa lights in the US are in violation of it. Pull the light out of the wire, cut the cord, strip the wires, same with the new light, wrap with electrical tape, lube it and pull the whole thing thru and wire to the junction box wiring. I've done this around 300 times. It's not very difficult, Remember to ascertain that the power is off.
 
How about silicone? Home Depot sells a few different epoxy products that are water proof. Try reinforcing that area perhaps? Maybe cut a little piece of pipe(or toilet paper roll which you could easily remove) to use as a form until it dries?

I'd probably want something with some elastomeric properties since the cord isn't rigid.
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.