Keeping CSI in check with high CH...

[casiokid]

Hi all,

This site has been SUCH a valuable resource for me and I have been proselytizing for TFP to whomever I can!

I have been managing our pool since we fired our pool guy and it's been in fantastic shape. We had it ROed in March and our CH was under 200 after the process. Since then, with our fill water here in the southwest, that number has shot up to 625ppm. Not a huge deal and I knew it was coming, but I want to make sure I fully understand the process for keeping my CSI in the negatives with a higher CH.

So, my plan is to keep the pH around 7.4 - 7.6...it always naturally wants to go to 8.0. I add about 8oz of MA almost every morning. I would also like to add borates to keep that 7.6 in check.

I'm also considering the IntellipH for automating the MA.

Does this sound like a plan? Any other input?

My numbers from this morning (K-2006 kit):

FC: 9
CC: 0
PH: 8.0 (added 8oz of MA to bring that down to 7.6)
TA: 70
CYA: 60
CH: 625
SALT: 3800

Thank you for any input!

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

No way you can connect your fill line to a water softener?

 

[casiokid]

We have a water softener for the house, but I haven't looked into one for the fill water! Have you done this? What's involved?

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

I use an RV water softener. You can check out the link in my signature for more info. It's not optimal as it does require frequent manual regeneration. For many reasons, I'm not able to use and automatic water softener.

If you you can make it happen, it will make life much easier for you. I know how expensive RO is, and using a water softener will likely eliminate the need for future RO service.

Do you have an automatic fill line? Or do you have a manual fill line plumbed to the pool?

 

[casiokid]

Interesting! I will check that out...

I didn't think the RO was that expensive out here. We paid $650 and it ran for about 10 hours. I don't mind doing that once a year since we saved so much managing our own pool.

We have an automatic fill plumbed in underground from our spigot line outside. It's the Pentair autofill with the Fluidmaster valve. Of course, the spigot line isn't connected to our water softener.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Do some brainstorming. If you don't feel confident you have the skills, hiring a professional would be a good investment.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

In the meantime, you should be able to manage High CH up to 800 PPM or so. Make sure you are tracking CSI and pool math and maintain CSI between 0.0 and -.30. This will help to mitigate scale. Try to keep TA on the low end of the acceptable range.

 

[casiokid]

Thanks! That's what I'm doing already...I was looking more for confirmation on the pH numbers I cited and the efficacy of borates and the IntellipH?

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

I'm going to ping @Dirk as I believe he has a good deal of info on the IntellipH system.

As for borates, make sure you check out the article in the wiki section. I've added borates in the past and was not impressed. Seems like all it did for me was require additional acid to move pH. If you are going to add borates, make sure you have your TA set where you want it. Trying to reduce TA with borates on board is a great challenge.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Borates will slow pH rise. However, reducing pH level with borates on board requires more acid than in a pool without borates. Therefore, the amount of acid required does not change. Just the frequency of dosing does.