Just got home after work, I'm going to test it, but before I do, since it's been storming outside, will the rainwater alter the results if I get the water from ~1 ft. underwater?
Just found out about TFP, here to give pool gurus a good challenge.
- Thread starter Dash Inc
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DrS
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Unless you are having an out right deluge, as long as your pump is running and it has not rained in say about 30 min, you should be fine to test.
As long as it's mixed, no problem.
Tip: you can take the sample indoors and test somewhere dry and comfortable.
FC - .5
CC - 1
pH - 7.2
TA - 40
CH - 125 ppm
CYA - ? [I kept filling the CYA View Tube until the black dot disappeared, but at the top of the tube, it never disappeared.]
I double checked the chlorine levels when I did the test block version of the chlorine and ph test because I felt my FC and CC were really low. The test tube did turn pink, indicating there was SOME amount of chlorine in there, but it turned back to clear within a drop or two in the tests. I'm frustrated that my CYA tests did not yield anything; I followed all the directions to the T, and even had my wife there to make sure I wasn't misreading something the second test around.
All in all, it looks like every single on of these readings is in the danger zone. Having a CC above .5 = SLAM the pool?
CC - 1
pH - 7.2
TA - 40
CH - 125 ppm
CYA - ? [I kept filling the CYA View Tube until the black dot disappeared, but at the top of the tube, it never disappeared.]
I double checked the chlorine levels when I did the test block version of the chlorine and ph test because I felt my FC and CC were really low. The test tube did turn pink, indicating there was SOME amount of chlorine in there, but it turned back to clear within a drop or two in the tests. I'm frustrated that my CYA tests did not yield anything; I followed all the directions to the T, and even had my wife there to make sure I wasn't misreading something the second test around.
All in all, it looks like every single on of these readings is in the danger zone. Having a CC above .5 = SLAM the pool?
Have you ever added CYA to the pool? I didn't see any evidence of that in the comments, so it isn't very surprising that you don't have any in there. You'll need to get some and add enough to target about 30ppm.
Ok, how much solid CYA should I put in the sock to get to that level do you think? And is that the only thing I should concentrate on right now, or should I tackle the other unbalanced chemical levels?
If you have never added CYA, or anything containing it (dichlor/trichlor shock) the PoolMath says you should add 60 oz by weight, 63 oz by volume (fl oz, I guess) of granular stabilizer.
I wouldn't bother changing anything else other than maintaining the correct chlorine levels.
IIRC you should run with "no CYA" FC levels (1-3 normal, 10 shock) until a day or so after adding the CYA and then switch to FC levels which assume the CYA is there (2-6 normal, 12 shock).
EDIT - just read back and found that you are cleaning up the pool, so basically keep it around 10 FC until you add the CYA, then start keeping it around or above 12 FC.
I wouldn't bother changing anything else other than maintaining the correct chlorine levels.
IIRC you should run with "no CYA" FC levels (1-3 normal, 10 shock) until a day or so after adding the CYA and then switch to FC levels which assume the CYA is there (2-6 normal, 12 shock).
EDIT - just read back and found that you are cleaning up the pool, so basically keep it around 10 FC until you add the CYA, then start keeping it around or above 12 FC.
Once you drop the sock of CYA you can run your FC to your Target CYA level. 
Use PoolMath for all of your chemical additions. It is not hard to tinker with!
If you have not done so, please read the ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
Use PoolMath for all of your chemical additions. It is not hard to tinker with!
If you have not done so, please read the ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
Regarding the correct levels of FC and CYA I'm trying to get to, I do not have a SWG, but my pool does get a good amount of sunlight. Should I be aiming for a CYA level of 40, or around ~70?
Ok, so if I understand the logic in this correctly: My pool's issue is not having the FC and CYA in correct balance. Balancing these two primarily will also lead directly to clear, swimmable water IN THEORY. If these two get balanced, and the water is still foggy, we'll go from there?
Correct, although there are a couple of different "balance points" depending on whether you are maintaining the water, getting rid of a typical algae bloom, or trying to get rid of mustard algae (which is harder to kill).
Pool School => Handy Reference => Chlorine/CYA chart shows you the appropriate FC level for the first two scenarios... these are also built into PoolMath along with the Mustard Shock levels. First column is CYA level, second and third columns give you the range of acceptable FC for normal maintenance at that CYA level, fourth column gives you the level you want to maintain when clearing the pool as you are now.
The general recommendation when you are fighting an algae bloom is to add enough CYA to reach 30 ppm, complete the SLAM (Shock Level And Maintain) at that CYA level, then raise the CYA a bit more (up to 50) if you are in an exceptionally sunny part of the world (you're not, and I'm not). Probably 40 is about right for you.
So...
- add enough CYA to go from current level to 30
- keep the FC at 12 or a bit higher until the pool is clear and you meet the three criteria for considering the SLAM complete
- let the FC drop to normal maintenance levels, never letting it get below the minimum (2 for CYA = 30, 3 or 4 for CYA = 40/50 respectively)
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock
I'm no expert but in my simplistic view balancing CYA and FC keeps your water clear and algae from growing on surfaces. In other words it keeps your water in balance for people. The other properties pH, TA and CH keeps your water in balance so it plays "nice" with your equipment and pool surface. So it is possible to have a nice sparkly pool for your swimmers but still have an out of balance pool that over the long term may be damaging your equipment or surface.
UPDATE: OBTAINED COMPLETE TEST RESULTS
So, a page back in this post it was mentioned that the copper levels and salt levels would affect the ease of going from the permasuck system to the BBB method. Today the pool store opened and we got our test results for the copper levels and salt levels, while the rest we determined with our TF-100 test kit (much to our surprise, the test results they gave us were almost exactly spot on with the results we got ourselves with the test kit, which made us feel good). Here is the most recent update of results:
FC - .5
CC - 1
pH - 7.5
TA - 90
CH - 120 ppm
CYA - 0
and by request earlier:
Copper - 0.6 ppm
Salt - 300
_______________________________
Next, here are some pictures of what our pool looks like right now:
_______________________________
Lastly, the chemicals we got to counteract the low FC and CYA levels as suggested to attack:
PoolMath calculated that we needed to 215 oz. of 8.25% bleach (which is what these Walmart brand bleaches said they contained), so we bought two 121 fl oz containers to cover that. Is also calculated that we needed 80 oz of stabilizer for the CYA, which Leslie's had at about the same price as Amazon ($27.99 @ Leslie's, $19.99 @ Amazon, but I would have to wait two days to get it).
Please keep in mind for this last paragraph that we are going from Perma Salt to BBB method, and that no Perma Salt chemicals have touched the pool since the beginning of last year:
Now, from what I finally am beginning to understand, I have to deal with the copper before I can attack the other issues? And I can either get a metal sequestrant, drain the pool level and refill (which wouldn't be easy for me to drain where I live, and apparently TN tap water contains a general amount of copper (?)), or keep going with the bleach and CYA stabilizer anyway? Thanks so far for all the advice everyone has been gracious enough to type out, I'm humbled by everyone's attention to this swamp.
So, a page back in this post it was mentioned that the copper levels and salt levels would affect the ease of going from the permasuck system to the BBB method. Today the pool store opened and we got our test results for the copper levels and salt levels, while the rest we determined with our TF-100 test kit (much to our surprise, the test results they gave us were almost exactly spot on with the results we got ourselves with the test kit, which made us feel good). Here is the most recent update of results:
FC - .5
CC - 1
pH - 7.5
TA - 90
CH - 120 ppm
CYA - 0
and by request earlier:
Copper - 0.6 ppm
Salt - 300
_______________________________
Next, here are some pictures of what our pool looks like right now:
_______________________________
Lastly, the chemicals we got to counteract the low FC and CYA levels as suggested to attack:
PoolMath calculated that we needed to 215 oz. of 8.25% bleach (which is what these Walmart brand bleaches said they contained), so we bought two 121 fl oz containers to cover that. Is also calculated that we needed 80 oz of stabilizer for the CYA, which Leslie's had at about the same price as Amazon ($27.99 @ Leslie's, $19.99 @ Amazon, but I would have to wait two days to get it).
Please keep in mind for this last paragraph that we are going from Perma Salt to BBB method, and that no Perma Salt chemicals have touched the pool since the beginning of last year:
Now, from what I finally am beginning to understand, I have to deal with the copper before I can attack the other issues? And I can either get a metal sequestrant, drain the pool level and refill (which wouldn't be easy for me to drain where I live, and apparently TN tap water contains a general amount of copper (?)), or keep going with the bleach and CYA stabilizer anyway? Thanks so far for all the advice everyone has been gracious enough to type out, I'm humbled by everyone's attention to this swamp.
Tap water anywhere should not contain copper. Drain/refill will avoid having to constantly purchase sequestrants. About a 50% drain/refill will get your copper down to a point where it should have no affect.
Once that is completed, you can add CYA up to around 30 and that will put your pool in position to be SLAMmed. I haven't read this whole thread.....have you read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School? Do you have a good grasp of that article?
Have you read "SLAM" in the "How To" section up in Pool School? Dohn't forget, the "M" stands for MAINTAIN....not just one dose.
Ask lot's of questions we all like to help eager learners.
Once that is completed, you can add CYA up to around 30 and that will put your pool in position to be SLAMmed. I haven't read this whole thread.....have you read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School? Do you have a good grasp of that article?
Have you read "SLAM" in the "How To" section up in Pool School? Dohn't forget, the "M" stands for MAINTAIN....not just one dose.
Ask lot's of questions we all like to help eager learners.
If not doing any drain and refill:
Step 1: Get 50% of the cya you need in a sock in the skimmer.
Step 2: Adjust your pH to 7.2
Step 3: Get the CL to SLAM level and KEEP it there. (see SLAMming your pool)
Step 4: Pass OCLT
Step 5: At least a week after the first CYA addition - Retest your CYA and add the next dose to get to your target (adjusting based on the actual result the first time.)
Somewhere along the lines order one of the recommended sequestrants (Jack's blue stuff I think) and add it after the SLAM is complete.
If you can do a partial drain and refill skip the last line.
Step 1: Get 50% of the cya you need in a sock in the skimmer.
Step 2: Adjust your pH to 7.2
Step 3: Get the CL to SLAM level and KEEP it there. (see SLAMming your pool)
Step 4: Pass OCLT
Step 5: At least a week after the first CYA addition - Retest your CYA and add the next dose to get to your target (adjusting based on the actual result the first time.)
Somewhere along the lines order one of the recommended sequestrants (Jack's blue stuff I think) and add it after the SLAM is complete.
If you can do a partial drain and refill skip the last line.
Following, just got my kit today and am going to be posting results this evening
Btw, I'm in Clarksville!
Btw, I'm in Clarksville!
I agree with duraleigh. With your copper level, it should be 50 percent drained, and then test for copper again before you start to SLAM or add CYA. Otherwise, it will always be an issue.
Do it now, or do it later, or use a sequestrant that will always need to be maintained and replenished.
Its copper that turns blond hair green and can stain your liner and other things.
WhetHer the blonde hair is on a human or on a pooch is irrelevent ! HAHA!
Do it now, or do it later, or use a sequestrant that will always need to be maintained and replenished.
Its copper that turns blond hair green and can stain your liner and other things.
WhetHer the blonde hair is on a human or on a pooch is irrelevent ! HAHA!
.5 CC is not in itself indicative of needing to SLAM, but it is an indicator that you may need to and you need to keep your eye on and monitor closely.
There are 3 cirteria for needing to SLAM. This is the same criteria for passing the SLAM and being finished with it.
1. Is the CC
2. Is the overnight Chlorine Loss Test .. a.k.a OCLT
3. is the clarity of your water. It should be clear
There are 3 cirteria for needing to SLAM. This is the same criteria for passing the SLAM and being finished with it.
1. Is the CC
2. Is the overnight Chlorine Loss Test .. a.k.a OCLT
3. is the clarity of your water. It should be clear
I am going to follow this one!
-ordered a good test kit without having to be told to! Check
-Posted pics-check
-asking questions-check
You are well on your way to a clear pool! It IS going to take some time and POP (pool owner patience) or beer!!
Kim
-ordered a good test kit without having to be told to! Check
-Posted pics-check
-asking questions-check
You are well on your way to a clear pool! It IS going to take some time and POP (pool owner patience) or beer!!
Kim
I'm working on the patience part, I keep feeling it's going to be cold outside by the time it gets clear, but then I read other posts on how helpful everyone is and how well it works out and I get my morale back pretty easily. Thanks Kim!