Just follow the directions

[neverfearsmithishere]

Hello all,

I haven't had many problems with my pool. I just followed the instructions from the folks that installed it.

1. Run the filter 12 hours/day
2. Shock once a week
3. Backwash the filter after the pressure rises 10 PSI.

It's worked so far, but this year I could not get a good free chlorine reading or CYA reading, both 0. Found good info on this forum and I'm working on it.

Pool is 18x36, vinyl liner, Hayward DE filter, Hayward Chlorinator, heat pump and in New Jersey.

 

[jblizzle]

Welcome to TFP!!!

My response to your 3 ..
1. Wrong. No need to run that long
2. Wrong. Maintain proper FC levels as a function of your CYA level at all times and you will never have a problem (see the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA])
3. Wrong. That is waiting too long. Backwash when the pressure rises 20-25% over the clean pressure

Glad you found us to learn a "better" and certainly cheaper way

Do you have one of the Recommended Test Kits?

 

[neverfearsmithishere]

Yes, I have the K-2006 and I just purchased new reagents. I knew something was up when I compared the results of test strips to the results produced by the Taylor Kit. I tested my pool yesterday and need to work on the Alkalinity.

FC 4.8
CC 0.4
pH 7.5
Ca Hardness 190
Alkalinity 180
CYA 30
Temp 80

Welcome to TFP!!!

My response to your 3 ..
1. Wrong. No need to run that long
2. Wrong. Maintain proper FC levels as a function of your CYA level at all times and you will never have a problem (see the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA])
3. Wrong. That is waiting too long. Backwash when the pressure rises 20-25% over the clean pressure

Glad you found us to learn a "better" and certainly cheaper way

Do you have one of the Recommended Test Kits?

 

[jblizzle]

You can use a 10 mL water sample for the chlorine test so that each drop is 0.5 PPM. That will save you a lot of reagents.

Also not necessarily any reason to actively worry about the TA. If you keep your pH and range the TA should drift down.

How does your water look? Your cc's are a little high as we do not like to see more than one drop.

 

[neverfearsmithishere]

The water is clear. I use the 25ml test if the 10ml results are low.

Thanks for the tip on TA and CC.

I do have a question on the Taylor Kit test procedure in general. When doing a test do you wait to see if the color changes are stable or do you complete the test as quickly as possible once the color change occurs? For example, the chlorine test, if I let the sample sit after it has turned clear it may turn pink again in 10-15 seconds after it turned clear.

You can use a 10 mL water sample for the chlorine test so that each drop is 0.5 PPM. That will save you a lot of reagents.

Also not necessarily any reason to actively worry about the TA. If you keep your pH and range the TA should drift down.

How does your water look? Your cc's are a little high as we do not like to see more than one drop.

 

[jblizzle]

You should complete the test at a reasonably fast pace, like one drop per second or so. For all the tests you add drops until the last drop causes no further color change and then don't count that drop. For the chlorine test it is not uncommon for the solution to turn back to Pink after sitting for a little while, ignore this.

There is no point in doing the 25 ml or chlorine test after you do a 10ml test. If your chlorine is low is going to be the low in both and determining if you're .5 or .2 is meaningless