Jandy style check valves with rusted & disintegrated springs

[Splash32]

Moved from here.. Check Valve Spring Tension Question Jim R.

ll,

Welcome to TFP... A great place to find the answers to all of your "tension filled" questions...

It might help if we knew why? 99% of the people don't have a problem with the standard Jandy style check valves...

What is this specific check valve for?

Thanks,

Jim R.

I've actually had problems with two standard Jandy style check valves. On both occasions the internal springs have rusted and disintegrated.
After the first issue, I replaced the check valve in Dec 2018 and it is now showing the same problem (see attached photos). Either the springs
are not stainless or very cheap stainless. I'd like to just replace the springs, but can't seem to find them anywhere on the internet. Any idea if they are out there or if I can make my own ? The spring does have a part number = #7302 spring. If others have experienced this and have a solution, I'm all ears. Thanks in advance ([email protected]).

 

[Splash32]

I've actually had problems with two standard Jandy style check valves. On both occasions the internal springs have rusted and disintegrated.
After the first issue, I replaced the check valve in Dec 2018 and it is now showing the same problem (see attached photos). Either the springs
are not stainless or very cheap stainless. I'd like to just replace the springs, but can't seem to find them anywhere on the internet. Any idea if they are out there or if I can make my own ? The spring does have a part number = #7302 spring. If others have experienced this and have a solution, I'm all ears. Thanks in advance ([email protected]).

 

[PoolGate]

Replace it with a flow meter.

Amazon.com: flowvis

 

[JamesW]

Is there a tab chlorinator?

The springs are usually good stainless. If they're rusting, it's probably due to exposure to chlorine from tabs sitting nearby.

 

[Splash32]

Is there a tab chlorinator?

The springs are usually good stainless. If they're rusting, it's probably due to exposure to chlorine from tabs sitting nearby.

Thanks. Yes there is an auto chlorinator, but as you can see the lower valve is fine and the springs look great after 10+ years (see photos attached). The upper one is just the return from solar panels on the roof.

 

[Splash32]

Replace it with a flow meter.

Amazon.com: flowvis

Thanks, I wasn't aware of this design, but at 100+ I'd really have to give this some thought since just the spring has gone bad.

 

[JamesW]

The damage is due to the tab feeder. Any time that the pump is off, chlorine from the feeder will begin migrating through the system and causing havoc with anything that it makes contact with.

The good spring is farther away.

There's no reason to have a check valve there.

If you have tabs in the feeder, I would allow the pump to run continuously or not use the feeder.

 

[Splash32]

The damage is due to the tab feeder. Any time that the pump is off, chlorine from the feeder will begin migrating through the system and causing havoc with anything that it makes contact with.

The good spring is farther away.

There's no reason to have a check valve there.

If you have tabs in the feeder, I would allow the pump to run continuously or not use the feeder.

Thanks James. So you are saying that stainless steel can't handle the close proximity of the tab feeder - which I assume your thought is that there is a higher concentrate of choline there vs other areas where the stainless is not affected at all (i.e. other check valve, SS screws in the pool, etc. ) ? You mentioned that there is no reason to place a check valve there. Here's what had me place one there - let me know your thoughts. Since my solar panels didn't drain down all the way (bad design by the installer), I put a 1/4 hose bib on roof pipe. I open that in the winter to let it drain down (shouldn't have to, since I live in Calif, but even though these panels should handle a day or two below 32 deg, they end up leaking). So once I open the drain valve and the pump begins to filter, the water ends up heading back up the panels and draining out the valve without the check valve in place. Did that make sense ?

 

[JamesW]

Any time that the pump is off, the chlorine in the feeder will begin to get concentrated and acidic. That makes it super corrosive. If you have ever opened a tab feeder and been gassed, then you have some idea of how toxic the mix can get.

I can see the point of the check valve.

The main problem is the feeder. If there are tabs in the feeder, the pump should be on.

 

[Splash32]

Any time that the pump is off, the chlorine in the feeder will begin to get concentrated and acidic. That makes it super corrosive. If you have ever opened a tab feeder and been gassed, then you have some idea of how toxic the mix can get.

I can see the point of the check valve.

The main problem is the feeder. If there are tabs in the feeder, the pump should be on.

Ok thanks, yes, I am aware of the chlorine gas - just thought that the SS would be able to handle it like other areas of the pool. So since there is always tabs in the auto chlorinator (whether the pump is on during the day or waiting for its next daily cycle), now the question is how can I resolve the issue. Guess I could periodically replace the springs if anyone knows where to obtain them or ?

 

[JamesW]

The gas is very concentrated near the feeder. Maybe get a Jandy NeverLube to put in there instead of the flap. That way you can close the valve when you want. The NeverLube and check valve use the same body, so you can just swap the parts except the body.

I wouldn't leave tabs in the feeder with the pump off. I would remove the tabs or keep the pump running on low.

The part number for the new check valve part is 7056. Part 7056 is the whole assembly except for the body.

 

[Splash32]

The gas is very concentrated near the feeder. Maybe get a Jandy NeverLube to put in there instead of the flap. That way you can close the valve when you want. The NeverLube and check valve use the same body, so you can just swap the parts except the body.

I wouldn't leave tabs in the feeder with the pump off. I would remove the tabs or keep the pump running on low.

Ok, thanks, I'll check out the Jandy NeverLube option and see what input others may have as well. As far as the feeder, I can't see myself removing the tablets daily, kind of defeats the purpose of an automated chlorinator. Thanks again for all your input.

 

[mknauss]

Start using liquid chlorine or install a SWCG - either solves the issue.

How to Chlorinate your Pool.