Jandy Stealth SHPM1.5 Plastic Nut Cracked

[Tungsten51]

How often is it used?

If the pump with the broken part is NOT a part of the filtration plumbing, yes you can still filter. Would need to see the entire plumbing at the pad to say for sure.

I'm a bit unclear on this solution. Either way I'm still cutting pvc right?

 

[1poolman1]

Everyday, for at least 15-30 minutes, to keep the pipes clean, so to speak.

If it doesn't have noisy bearings it should last a long time yet. As long as there are no outside issues, like a leaking shaft seal, pool pumps used like that can last decades. I have a customer with a filtration pump I installed 30+ years ago still using it with zero repairs other than a new lid O ring.

 

[Tungsten51]

If it doesn't have noisy bearings it should last a long time yet. As long as there are no outside issues, like a leaking shaft seal, pool pumps used like that can last decades. I have a customer with a filtration pump I installed 30+ years ago still using it with zero repairs other than a new lid O ring.

Thanks

 

[Tungsten51]

If the opening of the nut will allow you to pass the 90° elbow then cut on the red line and use a coupling just make sure you have the pump end flange lined up when you glue it.
View attachment 552478

Question. I have the replacement parts and am wondering if that pipe is under pressure? I assume not and that all I need to do is shut the system down, cut, repair and turn on, right?

 

[wireform]

There's no pressure to worry about. See if you can slide the collar over the 90 elbow.

 

[Tungsten51]

There's no pressure to worry about. See if you can slide the collar over the 90 elbow.

I can, thanks for the help everyone

 

[Tungsten51]

I can, thanks for the help everyone

Well, the repair went fine but now there is a leak at the bottom back housing that connects the motor to the unit. Only thing I can think of is that when I moved the pump a bit to line up the joints the housing plastic/seal cracked. Geesh!?

 

[1poolman1]

Well, the repair went fine but now there is a leak at the bottom back housing that connects the motor to the unit. Only thing I can think of is that when I moved the pump a bit to line up the joints the housing plastic/seal cracked. Geesh!?

If the leak is coming out of the vent, it is the shaft seal.

 

[Tungsten51]

If the leak is coming out of the vent, it is the shaft seal.

OK, is this a manageable fix? Because at this point I'm thinking of getting someone to put in a new one. The thing is heavy and hard to move around/fix due to the space. I mean, I'm not even sure how I would get that thing out of there to work on it?!

 

[wireform]

You'd back off both unions and disconnect the wiring only after the circuit breaker is shut off. Then the pump can be brought to a more comfortable spot to be worked on.

 

[Tungsten51]

You'd back off both unions and disconnect the wiring only after the circuit breaker is shut off. Then the pump can be brought to a more comfortable spot to be worked on.

Yea, the last part is the problem. Haha

 

[1poolman1]

OK, is this a manageable fix? Because at this point I'm thinking of getting someone to put in a new one. The thing is heavy and hard to move around/fix due to the space. I mean, I'm not even sure how I would get that thing out of there to work on it?!

 

[wireform]

Confusing. He starts by saying we're going to change the the seal on the stealth pump but then he changed the motor, as I was wondering why he was able to hold the shaft back by just removing the dust cap to remove the impeller but then upon reasreassembly he removes the back cover to hold back when tightening the impeller. Had to watch that twice to catch that, guess I'm tired after a long day.

 

[1poolman1]

Confusing. He starts by saying we're going to change the the seal on the stealth pump but then he changed the motor, as I was wondering why he was able to hold the shaft back by just removing the dust cap to remove the impeller but then upon reasreassembly he removes the back cover to hold back when tightening the impeller. Had to watch that twice to catch that, guess I'm tired after a long day.

Replacing a shaft seal is the same amount of work as replacing a motor. You have to remove the impeller screw (to the right, it is reverse thread), hold the motor shaft (9/16" wrench) in order to unthread the impeller (to the left, standard thread) , then remove the sealplate from the motor, remove the old seal from the sealplate, press the new seal into the sealplate, place the other half on the motor shaft in the correct orientation, then reverse the order to reassemble. In other words the entire pump is disassembled and reassembled to replace a shaft seal.

 

[Tungsten51]

Thanks for this. I called a pool guy and they said a new pump and install might be around $1,900?! Can anyone recommend a pump? We have 3 water features and a spa, if that helps. I was expecting maybe $1k, not $2k

 

[Tungsten51]

I'm pretty handy but this looks to be above my pay grade. LOL!

 

[Tungsten51]

I was searching the forum and saw this pump. Is this suitable for my needs? It's a little over $500.

CaliMar® Variable Speed Pool Pump | 3HP | CMARVSP3.0

Pool Supply Unlimited has some of the best prices when shopping for CaliMar® Variable Speed Pool Pump | 3HP | CMARVSP3.0

www.poolsupplyunlimited.com

 

[1poolman1]

I was searching the forum and saw this pump. Is this suitable for my needs? It's a little over $500.

CaliMar® Variable Speed Pool Pump | 3HP | CMARVSP3.0

Pool Supply Unlimited has some of the best prices when shopping for CaliMar® Variable Speed Pool Pump | 3HP | CMARVSP3.0

www.poolsupplyunlimited.com

If this is for a water feature it would work. You would need the automation adapter for it if you wat it to be controlled by your Jandy system.

 

[Tungsten51]

If this is for a water feature it would work. You would need the automation adapter for it if you wat it to be controlled by your Jandy system.

It's on back order. Someone came out yesterday to diagnose. Turns out I needed a new motor. He replaced it, so I'm good now. Thanks everyone.