Jandy LXi - Front Panel

[LynnOnTheWeb]

I need to troubleshoot the Fault Shorted H2O Sensor error but have a little bit of an embarrassing challenge. I'm not sure how to get the front panel off. It has a lock on it. Of course I have no clue where the key is (or why these are locked). A screwdriver seems to turn the lock mechanism but I don't think it's releasing it.

Thoughts?

 

[JamesW]

Turn the screw and pull on the handle and it will pop open.

 

[setsailsoon]

Lynn,

The most common reason for this is your water temp sensor has failed. Was the temperature reading rising as well? They are easy to replace if you have some experience with wiring and electronics. The electrical raceway you'll be working on contains 240v power so there is a serious shock hazard. Don't attempt this unless you have the necessary skills.

Cost for the part is $30-$70 depending on your model and where you purchase the part.

Chris

 

[LynnOnTheWeb]

@JamesW Thanks for that tip, I will try again. It never released but maybe I didn't get it just right.

@setsailsoon I need to go back and check the temperature reading to see if it's rising. One thing I wonder, we had to get the propane tank that supplies the gas refilled. Is it likely that that's triggering the error? Something to do with the lines not providing gas yet because there is still air in them?

I've read the documentation on replacing the sensor and will likely give that a shot if I can get the door open. I know where switch is to cut power to all equipment. I might not be successful in the repair, but I certainly won't electrocute myself.

 

[JamesW]

Getting the propane tank refilled should not be related.

Most likely, the temperature sensor has failed and you won't see a water temperature displayed.

The heater will not operate with the current fault.

You probably just need to replace the temperature sensor.

 

[setsailsoon]

@JamesW Thanks for that tip, I will try again. It never released but maybe I didn't get it just right.

@setsailsoon I need to go back and check the temperature reading to see if it's rising. One thing I wonder, we had to get the propane tank that supplies the gas refilled. Is it likely that that's triggering the error? Something to do with the lines not providing gas yet because there is still air in them?

I've read the documentation on replacing the sensor and will likely give that a shot if I can get the door open. I know where switch is to cut power to all equipment. I might not be successful in the repair, but I certainly won't electrocute myself.

Definitely do turn off all power. Double check with meter to verify power is not connected. And check before you leave for any reason that it's off then again when you return. Basic safety for electrical must be implemented meticulously since the risk is serious injury or death. Thanks for mentioning this!

Chris

 

[setsailsoon]

@JamesW Thanks for that tip, I will try again. It never released but maybe I didn't get it just right.

@setsailsoon I need to go back and check the temperature reading to see if it's rising. One thing I wonder, we had to get the propane tank that supplies the gas refilled. Is it likely that that's triggering the error? Something to do with the lines not providing gas yet because there is still air in them?

I've read the documentation on replacing the sensor and will likely give that a shot if I can get the door open. I know where switch is to cut power to all equipment. I might not be successful in the repair, but I certainly won't electrocute myself.

As James indicated if you have the error message and the sensor has failed you won't be able to check it. If you did notice the temp reading was steadily increasing before the error message this is another indicator it was going bad.

Chris

 

[LynnOnTheWeb]

@setsailsoon that makes sense. I did not notice the temperature rising before it failed, but I also wasn't looking for it. All I really know is that it worked before it ran out of propane, and now it doesn't. The propane only is used for the pool and since it was summer, we let it stay empty for a couple of months. I'll replace the sensor in hopes that is the problem.

Thanks again for your help!

PS: and I'll do the testing with the multimeter before replacing.

 

[ajw22]

If you have a multimeter you can test it before going to replace it. It should be a standard 10K ohm thermistor temperature sensor. See...

Temperature Sensors - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[LynnOnTheWeb]

@setsailsoon and @JamesW
I’ve got the new sensor now, hooked it up to the board to test it and all seems to be working correctly. Now to actually replace it. It’s the rusted piece in this photo, correct? It doesn’t seem to want to come out/be removed. I’m okay forcing it and breaking it if needed, I just want to confirm it’s the correct part before doing so (the wires are hard to follow).

 

[setsailsoon]

@setsailsoon and @JamesW
I’ve got the new sensor now, hooked it up to the board to test it and all seems to be working correctly. Now to actually replace it. It’s the rusted piece in this photo, correct? It doesn’t seem to want to come out/be removed. I’m okay forcing it and breaking it if needed, I just want to confirm it’s the correct part before doing so (the wires are hard to follow).

View attachment 121608

That looks right, Just follow the wires back that you disconnected to test the new sensor to confirm. Remove the old sensor carefully so you don't damage the threads. Same with reinstall, make sure the threads are clean and turn the sensor backwards to find the open outer thread then make sure it's square as you turn it in. You should get a couple of rounds with fingers only.
This way you know it's not cross-threaded.

Chris

 

[ajw22]

@setsailsoon and @JamesW
I’m okay forcing it and breaking it if needed, .

View attachment 121608

Don't break it off with a piece left screwed in or you will create more problems.

Use a good penetrating oil like Kroil-Penetrating-Lube to loosen the rust.

Robot or human?

Best Penetrating Oil - Products | Kano Laboratories, LLC

Where to buy the best rust penetrants on the market and other industrial products by Kroil. Formulated to help you get tough jobs done.

www.kanolabs.com

 

[setsailsoon]

If you're having problems following the wires just use a simple volt-ohm meter that has a beeping continuity tester. Check at the sensor end and the other end... it does look like you've got the right part but it pays to be patient and careful. Even more important as Allen points out don't make it worse by breaking it off in the housing. Us a penetrating oil like he suggests. Tap lightly to help it penetrate down the threads. Tap, add penetrant, tap again, penetrant again... let it sit 30 min or so. Repeat until it come loose. If you end up breaking it you'll have to drill and remove with screw extractor or even worse... see replace header housing - you don't want to go there.

Chris

 

[JamesW]

The threaded piece is already out. So, you should be able to pull out the sensor.

Worst case, you might need to remove the end piece by disconnecting the pressure switch tube and then unscrewing the big nut.

 

[LynnOnTheWeb]

@setsailsoon aand @JamesW

Well, I almost drained the pool when I unscrewed that big black cap and couldn’t find the valve that shut the water off, but in the end, success!!

I really wish someone had been there to take a video of that fiasco. It wasn’t funny at the time but I ended up with a great dinner table story.

I bought the part for $20 off Amazon. if I have to replace it again, I might go for a more expensive one. Compared to the one I replaced, the only difference I see is that either to wires are thinner or the wire casing is thinner. It works though so maybe that won’t matter.

Thanks for all your help and advice!

 

[JamesW]

Cool, glad you got it working.