Jandy Aquapure 1400 - R.I.P.

May 29, 2017
84
Houston
Our Jandy SWCG appears to have completely given up the ghost. Following a thorough cleaning and 24-hours on 100% I've tested the water by loosening up the return connection to the cell and the FC is 0.4 - also 0.4 in the pool. The cell is about 5 years old.

I put a couple of gallons of bleach in the pool a few weeks ago and did an overnight chlorine loss test and the results were less than 1.0

We've been maintaining chlorine levels with bleach and shock (to push up the CYA a little more) since then,

Questions:
1. Can you replace the inner plates? Or do I need to buy a completely new device?
2. If I were to go with another brand, are there any that would fit in the same space or would I have to get someone to plumb it in for me?
3. Which represents best value for money...? Price, longevity, functionality etc.

Thanks all
 
Emma,

Seems to me that another Jandy Aquapure 1400 would make the most sense.. You can just buy the cell for about $550 to $600.. That is about $120 bucks a year... Seems pretty good to me. No plumbing changes.

What am I missing? Why do you not want another 1400??

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Emma,

I have replaced my Jandy 1400 SWG cell twice now in the 10 years I have owned this pool. Each time it was the power pins inside where they attach to the plates. I grew frustrated paying $500-700 for a new cell each time due to what looks to me to be a design flaw. I looked into other options and found this:


It is a direct replacement, alot cheaper and has been working great for the last 6 months. I have noticed though it needs the salt levels to stay right at 3500 or slightly above.
 
1. Can you replace the inner plates? Or do I need to buy a completely new device?
I wonder the same thing. I had two bad PLC1400's so I cracked one open with a flat pry bar. The terminal end has an oblong groove around the body where the ends are glued together. The glue is stronger than the plastic but at least the plastic at that seam is weaker so it cracked along that grove. I wasn't careful enough at the terminal indentation and broke a 3" lip off. I think a good plastic glue could put it all back together. Apparently the water pressure is low because the terminals have simple rubber grommets around them. The plates are in a two-halved snapping encasement [printed with "A0119903 .040 BLADE" and A0119905 respectively]. I searched but didn't find a replacement. The glued seam seems to preclude that possibility. Of the [13 plates, 12] looked reasonably intact but one of the inner pair was deteriorated almost an inch... As for rebuilding it, the plates can be rearranged to put that one elsewhere with the best one to replace it next to/near the middle terminal. ... The plates are not connected to each other but separate by their own slots within the plastic encasement. The outer two did ... appear to be soldered. The inner one has a plastic shroud around the tip with very little metal showing through a rub...
 
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If the box is not showing any errors, it might be working. See the thread below to see how to check the amperage.

 

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The signature says "Jandy Pro series salt (9/2019)"
Following a thorough cleaning and 24-hours on 100% I've tested the water by loosening up the return connection to the cell and the FC is 0.4 - also 0.4 in the pool. The cell is about 5 years old.
But, they say that the cell is 5 years old. How is the cell 5 years old if the system is from 2019 unless only the box is new.

In any case, many people make the mistake of thinking that they can assess the cell by checking the FC level over time, which might or might not work.

If the box isn't showing any errors, then you really have to check the amperage to see if the cell is producing.
 
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