Issues with Hayward SWG

First off - excellent forum you guys have here! I can tell this place will help me better pool owner/maintainer. Much appreciation!

For weeks I have been trying to troubleshoot my 3.5 year old Swim Pure Plus system with T-15 cell. The pool is 15k gallons and the SWG has spent its life on about 30% output.
The issue started about 6 weeks ago when the salt reading on the panel hovered around 1800-2000 while in-store tests showed 2800, 2900 and sometimes 3000ppm (multiple tests over the span of weeks). The store informed me on recalibrating the panel, so I came home, recalibrated the panel and thought it was a fix. Turns out I would need to do that daily as the salt reading would continue to fall back down and ceases chlorine generation. I took the cell into the store to be tested and it passed. I was curious about the stores competence so I took it to another store and it passed there as well. Wanting to resolve this issue as fast as possible, I ordered a new Hayward/Goldline board, replaced it and no joy. The new board does the same thing. Frustrated and realizing the cell will wear out eventually anyways I ordered a generic T-15 and plugged it in and programed it - same thing. Now I'm at a complete loss. Ive inspected and cleaned the old cell, no joy.
I've asked my local pool store for help. Their suggestions have been "turn it off for 24 hours and let it reset", "call Hayward tech support" and "buy a whole new system for $1200?". I tried the 24 hour reset - no bueno. I called Hayward tech support - they asked for some information, told me the recalibration steps and ultimately gave me the number to a local pool store. I didn't bother calling that local pool store because I figure they will advise me to replace the whole thing...which I basically have, haven't I?





I've been supplementing with liquid bleach for a couple of weeks now and trying to dig through all the information here trying to find threads with the same issue as I'm having but haven't had any luck. Can anyone help point me in the right direction or hand hold me through the fix? I have no issues with soldering, taking readings with a multimeter and so on. I have a well equipped test kit but I'm fairly certain the chemicals have expired, but I do have a TF-100 kit ordered and on the way. The following numbers are from the panel this morning and from test print out from pool store yesterday.

Thanks in advance for any help and direction!

Panel Readings w/ original Hayward t-15:
Temp - 85
Cell volts - 28.3
Cell current - 4.23
Desired output - 100% (Just reset and on Super Chlorinate)
Instant salinity - 1500
Product name - AL-0
Cell type t-15
Im guessing the r1.59 is the board version? (The newer board is currently installed)

Test results from pool store yesterday at noon:
FC - 10
TC - 10
Salt - 3200
CH - 300
CY - 60 (added about 30oz more when I got home)
TA - 120
pH - 7.8 (added 16oz when I got home but we also had a decent rain yesterday afternoon)
Phosph - 100
 
Welcome to TFP!

I'm no help on troubleshoot or repair of your cell. But, I do know that the generic cells are a complete scam and rip off. There are dozens or more threads here about people getting ripped off with non-functioning and error prone generic cells with no support or warranty assistance. The sellers move from one eBay name to another dodging warranty claims. Buy a genuine Hayward cell.

Here are a couple of recent threads
Compupool SWG - Stay away! (with pictures))
AquaRite T15 salt cell replacement
 
I have a brand new swimpure plus (manual says plus) was labeled swimpure extreme in the store. My tests show salt at 3400 - 3600 my panel is always 500 - 700 lower. Have you added any salt to see if the reading increases? If you have 2 boards and 2 cells saying the same thing..... Other than that mine came with 4 year warranty (installed by pool store I think adds a year) I assume you didn't get that?

Did any of your panel readings change when you switched the board or cell? Just seems strange that it would stay exactly the same....
 
Sounds like you have a bad main pcb board. I know you said you replaced the board. There are 2 boards. The front is the display board. The back is the main board. Look at the back board in the upper right in the middle section. You'll see a black round looking disc, that is a resistor. If that is cracked or the connectors looked burned then the board is bad.

Everything you are describing sounds like a bad main pcb board as long as your cell is cleaned. Bad main boards will give you an inaccurate reading on your salt lv.
 
I don't think that the pcb is bad. Most likely, the cell is bad.

Maybe the generic cell is defective or it's a T-9?

I would recommend that you get a K-1766 salt test kit.

If the box salinity is 800 ppm or more below the K-1766 salt test kit, I would replace the cell.
 
Hey guys thanks for the replies. Sorry It has taken me a couple of days to reply - its been a hectic weekend.
To update - a replacement generic T-15 cell fro Pool Supply World arrived yesterday. As it was being delivered I was in the process of cleaning the original cell (again), cleaning filters, brushing walls and so forth. I immediately plugged the generic cell in and it seems to be working correctly for the last 24 hours. Perhaps the first generic cell I was sent was bad out of the box? I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it will be working correctly in 48 hours though. I'll update the thread later this week with the results.

I will say that the cust servc rep I spoke to at Pool Supply World was polite and helpful. She originally requested that I send the questionable generic cell back and then they would send out a replacement. I told her I'd much prefer they go ahead and send the new cell out in hopes of getting my SWG up and running faster. She made it happen and I cant ask for anything more than that. I then asked her more questions about this generic cell (do they have a tech support dept, do they have troubleshooting information online?, ect). The information she gave me wasnt much help but she did say that the generic cells they offer are also made by Hayward. No clue if that is accurate or not but they certainly look exactly like the OEM T cells.

The FAS-DPD kit I ordered should be here this week.
 

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The K-1766 is a color change, so pretty easy to see.

The Hayward GLX-SALTMETER Digital Handheld Salt meter is ok, but probably not worth the cost unless you really want the digital meter. You should always get calibration solution with a digital meter.

The Myron L Ultrapen PT1, Pocket Tester Pen is also a good choice.
 
The K-1766 is a color change, so pretty easy to see.

The Hayward GLX-SALTMETER Digital Handheld Salt meter is ok, but probably not worth the cost unless you really want the digital meter. You should always get calibration solution with a digital meter.

The Myron L Ultrapen PT1, Pocket Tester Pen is also a good choice.

Thanks for the recommendations, James. $25 vs $125.....I'll go with the K-1766 and get the non-colorblind wife to help me :)
 
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