Issues with Hayward Blue Essence

[hgiljr]

Good day everyone. For some time now I have been pushing along with my old cell (t-9 model). After coming across that it would no longer produce chlorine after 6 years, I decided to buy a new cell. Well it so happens that I am having the exact same issue with the new cell. This time around I purchased the t-3 cell model since my pool is below 15k gallons. I also made sure that the board was changed from T9 to T3 cell. Another piece of information is that the board was replaced back around May of this year as well as the flow sensor. Interesting enough, if I place it in super chlorinate mode, it will produce chorine. One thing I discovered is that if I place it in super chlorinate mode today, once the pool pump shuts down for the day, the next day when it turns back on, it will be back in regular chlorinate mode even if the switch is still in super chlorinate mode. Any suggestions or ideas as to why it is not producing chorine in regular mode? Thanks in advance for any help

Hector

 

[JamesW]

For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Switching the unit off and then back on makes the unit reverse polarity.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

To get the performance percentage of the cell in each polarity, divide the instant salinity reading in each polarity by the actual salinity reading.

For example, if the instant reading is 3,300 ppm and the actual salinity reading is 3,300 ppm, then the salt cell is working at 100%.

However, if the actual salinity was 3,800 ppm, then the performance percentage is 86.8%.

Anything over 75% is acceptable.

At75%, or lower, in either polarity, it's time to consider replacing the cell.

The instant salinity in both polarities should be about the same (+/- about 200 ppm).

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

Note that ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus use the Hayward T Cell.

However, the procedure to get the diagnostic readings is different.

Here is the procedure for ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus:

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.

 

[hgiljr]

For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Switching the unit off and then back on makes the unit reverse polarity.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

To get the performance percentage of the cell in each polarity, divide the instant salinity reading in each polarity by the actual salinity reading.

For example, if the instant reading is 3,300 ppm and the actual salinity reading is 3,300 ppm, then the salt cell is working at 100%.

However, if the actual salinity was 3,800 ppm, then the performance percentage is 86.8%.

Anything over 75% is acceptable.

At75%, or lower, in either polarity, it's time to consider replacing the cell.

The instant salinity in both polarities should be about the same (+/- about 200 ppm).

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

Note that ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus use the Hayward T Cell.

However, the procedure to get the diagnostic readings is different.

Here is the procedure for ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus:

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.

Here are my answers:
Settings during off: 4200, 88, 30.9, 0, 91p, -0, AI-0, R1.59, T3
Settings while on Auto: 4200, 88, 26.8, 3.85, 91p, -4200, AI-0, R1.59, T3
Settings after one minute shutdown: 4200, 88, 26.8, 3.85, 90p, -4200, AI-0, R1.59, T3

Actual salinity is 3900, measured at the local pool store. T-Cell is T3 and yes it is programmed within the settings for T3. First 7 characters are 3E20349. Anything else let me know. Thank you

 

[JamesW]

When it shuts down, does the High Salt light come on?

If yes, you need to lower the salinity.

 

[hgiljr]

When it shuts down, does the High Salt light come on?

If yes, you need to lower the salinity.

View attachment 373929

It does not.

 

[JamesW]

Settings while on Auto: 4200, 88, 26.8, 3.85, 91p, -4200, AI-0, R1.59, T3

This shows that it is working.

Why do you think that it is not working?

How long does it run before shutting down?

 

[JamesW]

One thing I discovered is that if I place it in super chlorinate mode today, once the pool pump shuts down for the day, the next day when it turns back on, it will be back in regular chlorinate mode even if the switch is still in super chlorinate mode.

Superchlorinate only runs for 24 hours or until power is turned off and then back on.

 

[hgiljr]

This shows that it is working.

Why do you think that it is not working?

How long does it run before shutting down?

Because it is not producing chlorine. It is currently below .56pm for TC and FC. I only get chlorine results if I put it in super chlorinate. If I do a pool shock, then I will have chlorine for a few days and then back down to below 1. Thanks for your help

 

[JamesW]

my old cell (t-9 model)

This time around I purchased the t-3 cell model since my pool is below 15k gallons.

You should have stayed with a T-9.

The T-3 only produces half as much chlorine.

The numbers show that it is producing the correct amount of chlorine for a T-3.

The percentage shows 90%.

The cycle time is 180 minutes, so the cell should produce for 162 minutes and then rest for 18 minutes and then it should produce for 162 minutes etc.

You can turn the production up to 100% and you can run the pump longer.

Other than that, you probably need to SLAM.

SLAM Process

 

[hgiljr]

I went with the T3 because It was a significant cost saving and didnt think I would need one for larger pool. Guess I was wrong. So My pool pump is two speed and I have it set to run for 3 hours in low speed and 5 in high. Going to try 2 hrs low and 6 high. Although in low speed, chlorine is not generated so not sure why even run the low speed. Thoughts?

thanks for all your help.

 

[JamesW]

Although in low speed, chlorine is not generated so not sure why even run the low speed.

Low speed should be enough flow to activate the flow switch.

Can you show the system and describe the equipment and pressure?

 

[mknauss]

I have it set to run for 3 hours in low speed and 5 in high.

In your climate, you will need to run the SWCG many more hours than that. Probably close to 24 hours per day. Start at 12 hours at 100% and see if works for this time of year. In summer, it will need to be 100% for 24 hours per day.

 

[JamesW]

This is why we usually recommend a larger cell than the cell rating would suggest.

Maybe try cleaning the filter to see if the flow switch will activate on low speed with a clean filter.

 

[hgiljr]

Low speed should be enough flow to activate the flow switch.

Can you show the system and describe the equipment and pressure?

Here are some pictures. I believe part of the problem why there is not enough flow is the distance of the pool and the pump which is close to 50-60 ft. I have always believed that when the pool was built they undersized the pool pump. As for cleaning the pool filters, I do this every couple of days and doesn't help pressure. As for 24 hours, never have I had to run the pump before for such time with the previous larger cell.

 

[JamesW]

The filter pressure on low should only be a few psi.

If the pressure is higher, then there is an issue.

The flow should be enough on low speed to activate the salt flow switch.

If you can get it to operate on low, then that is going to make a huge difference in the total amount of energy used.

If you have to run 24/7 on high, that is going to cost a lot in electricity.

The T-3 costs less but it only make 1/2 half the daily chlorine and only 1/2 of the total lifetime chlorine.

So, it is not quite the bargain it seems to be.

 

[hgiljr]

The filter pressure on low should only be a few psi.

If the pressure is higher, then there is an issue.

The flow should be enough on low speed to activate the salt flow switch.

If you can get it to operate on low, then that is going to make a huge difference in the total amount of energy used.

If you have to run 24/7 on high, that is going to cost a lot in electricity.

The T-3 costs less but it only make 1/2 half the daily chlorine and only 1/2 of the total lifetime chlorine.

So, it is not quite the bargain it seems to be.

Filter pressure on low is 4psi. How would I get it to work on low? What do I need to check or do?

 

[JamesW]

"As for cleaning the pool filters, I do this every couple of days and doesn't help pressure."

This indicate a problem with the cartridge.

Maybe try a new cartridge or get a new, bigger cartridge filter.

Filter pressure on low is 4psi.

That's too high. It should be closer to 2 psi.


This picture shows the skimmer partially closed.

If you are trying to run the cleaner on low, then it might be too restrictive.

If the skimmer and main drain are open and the filter is clean, then the flow on low should be enough to activate the SWG's flow switch.

 

[hgiljr]

"As for cleaning the pool filters, I do this every couple of days and doesn't help pressure."

This indicate a problem with the cartridge.

Maybe try a new cartridge or get a new, bigger cartridge filter.


That's too high. It should be closer to 2 psi.

View attachment 374981
This picture shows the skimmer partially closed.

If you are trying to run the cleaner on low, then it might be too restrictive.

If the skimmer and main drain are open and the filter is clean, then the flow on low should be enough to activate the SWG's flow switch.

Actually I just turned it off and the gauge remained at 4psi. Didn’t move. So maybe on low it is lower then 4psi. I will open the main drain to see if flow switch activated. Thanks again for your help.

 

[JamesW]

Replace the gauge.

 

[hgiljr]

New gauge was ordered. This morning I decided to open fully all valves while pump was on low and no flow was detected. Also in reviewing the setup, the salt water panel box does not even turn on on low. So I inspected the wiring into the electrical panel. I have the intermatic digital two speed timer. From the salt water panel into electrical panel/ timer there are three cables (ground, common and hot). The hot side goes into the timer's N0-3 and common into com-1. When you start the pump on low, on the panel it does say load 2 and load 3, "on". Is this the proper way to wire this salt water panel or does it also have to have a cable going into N0-2?